Hello all,

What affects the operating temperature the most, coolant or oil?

I am running Engine Ice coolant and Shell Rotella T 5W-40 oil and I switched to both at around the same time. I notice that when my 04 F4i is at temperature, it is a few degrees higher than previously. I've seen my temps climb faster and stay higher longer now than before.

I'm just wondering if the oil or coolant is having the strongest effect on the temp.

I previously ran regular coolant (the Prestone that is safe for aluminum engines) and either Castrol 4T motorcycle oil (10W-40) or either Shell Rotella T 5W-40.

I've been changing my coolant every year or so, depending on how much I ride and my oil every 3 months no matter how much I ride (except for the sitting winter months).

My operating temps now goes up to about 233F sometimes. The fan kicks on at the usual 226/227F. Before, my bike would only go up to about 227-228F and cool off. Now it hovers around 230F or higher and stay longer before the riding air cools it off.

This is in a mixture of street/traffic riding where ambient temps are between 70 - 90F. High speed/highway riding keeps the bike cooler because of the air.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

 

If fan turns on, should be ok. As to the oil or coolant quality factor, "sure, why not" a few degree..maybe.

If you are riding hard...will heat up quicker...thus constant monitoring temp. If bike get too hot, shut it off.

 

The F4i is liquid cooled and that liquid is what controls the temp more then anything once the thermostat is fully open.

 

Cool, thanks. I always thought our bikes were air cooled (as a cooling factor, no in terms of engine protection), so thanks for the correction.

So, my experience with higher temps are probably related to the coolant?

 

You may want to pressure check your cap. If the system is not able to hold pressure, the coolant isn't working at it's potential. 233 deg is a bit on the high side.

 

If you've got temps that high with engine ice in then something is wrong. Air in the system (huge problem on 90's-00's BMW cars), thermostat starting to fail, fan starting to fail, restricted radiator, crimped hose, water pump issue, etc

If it were my bike I would start troubleshooting the issue immediately. It sounds like either the coolant isn't moving like it should (clog, pump, hose, air) or it isn't being cooled like it should (fan, air).

 

The coolant picks up the heat from the engine. Air cools the water running through the radiator. So I guess you could call it air/liquid cooled lol.

I think engine ice is a huge waste of money myself. Coolant+water works great, water by itself works better then anything. But our water pumps wouldn't like that, so water + water wetter is the way to go. A $4 bottle should last me about 10 coolant flushes, so the life of the bike. Its cheap and works better then engine ice.

 

On the bottle of Water Wetter is says to run at least 15% coolant on street vehicles.

 

If you live somewhere that see's freezing temps then thats a good idea. If you live in phoenix there is no need for anti freeze [coolant] in the system.

 

I've been kind of thinking the same thing. I did two coolant flushes two years in a row and used Engine Ice and I didn't notice the additional "cooling" that some claim Engine Ice offers. I've had the exact problem both years and the only reason why I used Engine Ice a second time is because I thought that when I flushed the first time some of the old coolant was left in the system. (I know how to change the coolant, but I know there is always a chance some old coolant is left over after the flush)

I will probably order some Honda OEM coolant unless anyone can recommend a better choice. I guess I could go back to the Prestone found at Auto Part stores that is safe for Aluminum engines, but I would just rather have something better than Engine Ice!