Hey all previous thread/questions here on valve clearance check: https://cbrforum.com/forum/f4i-main-...-check-162800/

So I replaced all the shims and when going to put things back together the cam-shafts aren't lining up. I can get the marks to line up close with the case but the cams don't even sit close to flat as described in this post here:https://cbrforum.com/forum/f4i-main-...0/#post1013139

Like 2 of the cam parts sit in their holder and the other 2 aren't even close. I also can't get both marks flush. I get the front exhaust side flush and the intake side is either too high or two low even rotating it one lobe. Anyone ran into this issue before? I'm more than frustrated messing around with trying to get things lined up for over a couple hours now full of grease. Everything was untouched when I took it apart. Didn't rotate the engine. The mark next to the T is perfectly lined up with the mark in the case. I just don't get it.


Figured it out here's my response below:
I think I figured it out. I slightly cranked the engine so that the line on the bottom was lined up with the bottom line inside the case. Here is where my alignment was sitting which didn't allow me to line up the ex/in lines properly. Once I rotate it counterclockwise about 10 degrees from this picture everything lined up perfectly. https://imgur.com/a/sssUXBj
This made sure that the mark next to the t was 100% lined up as well. Once I did this, the valve cover bolted down evenly. Before, I was slightly off by a sprocket and the valve cover was lifted higher on cyl # 1 by 2-3mm and wasn't bolting down evenly at all. I stopped, lined up the engine again, and re-aligned cams.. Tightened the valve cover to spec, rotated engine several times and re-measure the clearances on 1 and 3 and they were PERFECT. Just need to check the rest of the engine and re-assemble. My only concern was that rotating the engine seemed a bit tougher but that could just be in my head. It's not like I have to wrench on it or anything just doesn't seem as easy as before. I mixed assembly lubes with t6 and moly grease to make sure everything was lubed properly.

Hopefully this helps others out there. To line up the line next to the t you can also align the bottom line. Once those two are lined up the ex and in line need to be flush with the case.

Thanks for everyone's response!

 

You know this is a great situation I'm on the opposite intake is flush the exhaust is not. I believe has to do with the cam timing chain as the crankshaft will not rotate to align the tappets or valve buckets to TDC to align the camshafts. I haven't figured this out yet.

 

Glad I'm not the only one!! I have watched this vid around the 1:05 mark but he doesn't seem to run into the problem either.

 

When I did mine, I focused on the IN/EX marks being even with the engine case. I also "painted" two lines on each sprocket to make sure I was putting them back correctly. Still had a little trouble because the frame and angle made it tough to view straight on.

Here is the vid I used as my guide -


Hope this helps and you get it figured out!

 

I think I figured it out. I slightly cranked the engine so that the line on the bottom was lined up with the bottom line inside the case. This made sure that the mark next to the t was 100% lined up. Once I did this, the valve cover bolted down evenly. Before, I was slightly off by a sprocket and the valve cover was lifted higher on cyl # 1. Tightened the valve cover to spec, rotated engine several times and re-measure the clearances on 1 and 3 and they were PERFECT. Just need to check the rest of the engine and re-assemble. My only concern was that rotating the engine seemed a bit tougher but that could just be in my head. It's not like I have to wrench on it or anything just doesn't seem as easy as before. I mixed assembly lubes with t6 and moly grease to make sure everything was lubed properly.

Hopefully this helps others out there. To line up the line next to the t you can also align the bottom line. Once those two are lined up the ex and in line need to be flush with the case.

Thanks for everyone's response!

 

Has anyone had to sync their throttle bodies after performing this? Some people say they do, others not so much.

 

I did check them but they were fine...

 

Thanks for the response! I'll hold off on ordering the $80 tool on amazon then. Kept having issues with the TB slip off last night after getting 3/4 clamps tightened down.. Ripped it off, grabbed all the buried hoses that go to the airbox and will give it another shot tonight and hopefully have it running as well. The manual states adding sealant to the half-moons in on the sides of the valve cover. I already ordered a new gasket, is the sealant really necessary?

 

I would recommend following the guidelines. Honda engineers did a great job on making really reliable engines. They know what is needed and what is not.

 

Might want to consider doing the "clean air" mod to free up some space!

Yes! You don't want to have to go back in there to deal with a leaky gasket do ya?