Valve Adjustment
#1
Valve Adjustment
My 2002 f4i has roughly 28k miles on it and valves have never been checked. I know I can check them myself but as far as fixing them if out of spec is that hard to do? I know its a shim/bucket setup and I have a manual but Im wondering if I should just send it to Honda and let them do it for me. Just dont want to front $400+ for it at Honda.
I don't hear ticking but im worried about them being tight. Anyone have insight on this? Any advice and if out of spec, where would I buy shims or whatever to fix them?
I don't hear ticking but im worried about them being tight. Anyone have insight on this? Any advice and if out of spec, where would I buy shims or whatever to fix them?
#2
If you wanna work on it yourself, I would highly recommend replacing them regardless. It's a pita just to get to them so you might as well go a little further. This would also save you the trouble of measuring each one and avoids that annoying feeling where 2 shims are close to being replaced while the rest fine to keep going. As for shims, I think it's more economical to just go to a dealership/shop and buy the exact ones you need, should cost a couple bucks each. Your other option would be to get a pack at a store, but it's like $50 for a bunch of different ones that you'll probably never use unless you have a shop at home for other bikes. The dealership would also be better because you would actually get the exact size you need simply buy going in and telling them your bike model.
O and don't play with the cct lol. When I checked my valves, I had a manual cct, and I don't know why I took it off, but when I put it back, it was too loose so the cam chain jumped a few sprockets, messing up my timing. It was a horrible experience lol.
O and don't play with the cct lol. When I checked my valves, I had a manual cct, and I don't know why I took it off, but when I put it back, it was too loose so the cam chain jumped a few sprockets, messing up my timing. It was a horrible experience lol.
#3
I did it myself. easy to do really, just takes some time. Make your life easier and take the tank off all the way, make life doubly easier, make sure the tank is almost empty when you take it off. :-D
Just take off the throttle bodies, and valve cover and follow the directions to the T.
Check em(your exhaust is most likely fine, intake probably out of spec) My exhausts were perfect, intake half the clearance they should have been.
Once you get the valve clearance, remove your cct, and remove the cam case thing that holds the cams in. mark the chain and cams with a sharpie and dont touch the crank position with cams out!! push the intake cam closer to the exhaust cam to remove it without disturbing the exhaust cam.
Now get the shim number and use the schnazzy equation in the manual, then go buy new shims at a honda shop, or any honda online motorcycle fiche has them too. Now reassemble with a TORQUE WRENCH! if you dont have one you shouldnt have started in the first place.
Follow the correct tightening order on the cam holder thing and make sure the chain is on the right way in the cams. Spin it a few times and check clearances again once everything is tight.
now just reassemble!
by the way..take it VERY easy on the 3 weird bolts that hold the valve cover on. I torqued mine EXACTLY to 7 Ft-Lbs(per spec) and the middle one snapped off in the head...not a fun situation..especially thinking i was almost done. :-(grr.
Well thats about it! Pretty easy really. Just follow the manual.
Just take off the throttle bodies, and valve cover and follow the directions to the T.
Check em(your exhaust is most likely fine, intake probably out of spec) My exhausts were perfect, intake half the clearance they should have been.
Once you get the valve clearance, remove your cct, and remove the cam case thing that holds the cams in. mark the chain and cams with a sharpie and dont touch the crank position with cams out!! push the intake cam closer to the exhaust cam to remove it without disturbing the exhaust cam.
Now get the shim number and use the schnazzy equation in the manual, then go buy new shims at a honda shop, or any honda online motorcycle fiche has them too. Now reassemble with a TORQUE WRENCH! if you dont have one you shouldnt have started in the first place.
Follow the correct tightening order on the cam holder thing and make sure the chain is on the right way in the cams. Spin it a few times and check clearances again once everything is tight.
now just reassemble!
by the way..take it VERY easy on the 3 weird bolts that hold the valve cover on. I torqued mine EXACTLY to 7 Ft-Lbs(per spec) and the middle one snapped off in the head...not a fun situation..especially thinking i was almost done. :-(grr.
Well thats about it! Pretty easy really. Just follow the manual.
#4
My local honda shop sold me some hot cam shims for $2 a piece.
#5
#6
I have not done it myself but probably will next year.....see below and let me know if it helps...
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...t=85499&page=2
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...t=85499&page=2
#7
The BARF how-to below talks about syncing the throttle bodies after the valve adjustment... What is that all about? I'd like to check my valves but this throws me off.
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...t=85499&page=4
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...t=85499&page=4
#8
#9
The BARF how-to below talks about syncing the throttle bodies after the valve adjustment... What is that all about? I'd like to check my valves but this throws me off.
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...t=85499&page=4
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...t=85499&page=4
#10
It is actually quite tricky if you haven't worked on your bike much before. There is ample opportunity to total your engine as well. Have a go at checking them first (Really simple) then if you feel confident have a good read up on what needs to be done and adjust them. If your area has mobile mechanics it might be worth having one out for 20 mins to check the timing when you are done.
Syncing throttle bodies is a bit like syncing carbs, you need a set of vacuum gauges to do it but realistically you would get away with just sticking them back on without syncing them. If it idles badly afterwards then buy some gauges and sync them (30 minute job). It just means that each cylinder is drawing the same amount of air through the throttle bodies, only noticeable at lowspeeds and idle.
If you know someone who spanners regularly ask them to keep an eye on you.
Syncing throttle bodies is a bit like syncing carbs, you need a set of vacuum gauges to do it but realistically you would get away with just sticking them back on without syncing them. If it idles badly afterwards then buy some gauges and sync them (30 minute job). It just means that each cylinder is drawing the same amount of air through the throttle bodies, only noticeable at lowspeeds and idle.
If you know someone who spanners regularly ask them to keep an eye on you.
Last edited by DonnyBrago; 07-29-2010 at 03:19 AM.