So i adjusted my chain and it's getting to the point where I may have to replace it soon. The previous owner, who hasn't replied to my email, replaced the sprocket with a bigger aftermarket one (i think it's just the rear). So how does this effect what type of chain I should buy?

- the manual says 108 link chain.. obviously ... i have to go a bit higher.. like 112.
- i read some on forum that f4i take 525 chains. Does the sprocket conversion effect this?

- Should i put in a stock sprocket? -- i heard a bigger rear sprocket in the back gives me more torque, but my speedometer is like off by 10mi/hr. Is the power really that much or is it just hype?

 

first off, i would recomend replacing the chain and both sprockets together. second the power is better on the low end but often times worse on the high end. unless you get the sprocket size your problem just gonna have to check more than one size of chain cuz it will be impossible to tell which one you need. also he most likely changed the front as well. as far as the 525 goes that has to do with width, so it won't effect whether or not the chain fits. They do it because the lower the number the lighter the chain and it helps transfer more hp from the engine to the wheel

 

i just had this issue...
i was told the chain size was 112 link for a stock f41 02... turns out one of the part catalogs is mis-printed...



46 teeth on a the rear is stock... i cant remember the teeth on the front.... 15 ish? (just a guess) but with stock front ##teeth and 46 teeth on the rear. you need a 108 link chain... 112 has no chance... just rests on the swing arm.....

good luck!

 

if you doing to 520 conversion you well need 520 front and rear sprocket and 520 chain
stock gearing for the f4i is 16 on the front and 46 on the rear
most common gearing is 1 down in the front and 2 up in the rear
but you will need to get a speedohealer there about $110
if you want just a little more torque with out losing much topend just drop 1 in the front but you still need a speedohealer

 

leave it stock.... shift 1000rpm later LOL

 

if the chain is too long. i can always cut it right? i gotta start ebaying some of those tools.. chain cutter.. and press. You guys have any advice, or will anything on ebay work?

 

You dont need any special tools to change the chain. Take a grinder (I used a electric hard stone wheel, but you can use a air die grinder with the proper grinding media) grind the rivets off the face of one link. You just need one side, dont need to grind both. I started to use a punch and hammer. You can also use a chisel. You need some thing long if you want to drive through from the other side of the bike. I tried that and gave up when I realized I had access to a air hammer. I put a chisel bit on the hammer and it took two seconds to pop off the plate. Push the other half of the link out and you are done, the chain will come out.

Some advice. Keep tension on the chain or atleast keep the link you are cutting near or mated with the rear sprocket. It gives it more stability and wont let the chain move around. When you have the rivets ground off I would suggest then loosening the axle and both chain adjusters. Then use whatever chisel/punch/hammer and smack the link apart. Having tension on the chain when you pop it apart may make parts fly or snap around so be careful.

I have a clip type masterlink, just make sure it is pointed the correct direction and it is good procedure to safety wire it just incase.

To install your chain trim it down, measure twice and cut once or else you may end up with extra master links which will give the chain more weak points. Run the chain through the frame onto the sprockets, install your master link and check for proper chain slack and alignment. Measure with a tape measure from the swingarm pivot to the axel on both sides. Make sure the measurement is spot on. Dont just rely on the marks on the tensioners as they could be off. Spin the rear tire by hand to make sure it doesnt make a lot of noise, as this is a sign of improper chain alignment. Ride the bike and make sure that it doesnt get really noisy at speed before you button everything up. Chains are easy once you do them a couple times.

If you dont want to have a shop install your chain but you dont want a clip type link, and you dont want to buy a chain rivet tool i would suggest buying a rivet and a clip type link. Install the chain with the clip link and ride it to a shop to have them replace the clip with a rivet link.

 

ty much

 

no problem. any other questions just ask. Each time you work on a system for your bike, (Brakes, Chain, Wheels, Engine, Intake) it gets easier and easier. If you have the confidence and ability to do a chain or brakes you just need knowledge and you can do just about anything.

Dont pay a shop, just learn it yourself. It will make you a better rider understanding your bike and give you the ability to understand how things work and what happens when they go wrong, or hopefully allow you to see things before they do go wrong.

 

Hey Nguyen, like loomis stated, change BOTH sprockets AND chain at the same time. If you put a new chain on worn out sprockets you'll be doing this all over again sooner than you'd like to. So buy the kit (chain and sprockets). I suggest the 525 kit, unless you're doing alot of track days and want to shave a tenth of a second off your lap time, then go with the 520. There is no real world advantages to the 520 conversion, in fact the 520 chain is not as strong as the 525 chain (comparing apples to apples i.e. same brand chain) As far as the gearing, thats up to you and your riding style, just read the other posts.