Throttle Cable Question
 

Hi all,

I think i asked about this before, but I still haven't solved my problem with the throttle cable. I was screwing with what I thought was the adjusting nut because I had thought I could just take off the clip-ons easily by backing it out. No such luck. Now, I can't get it back in any further than this:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-P...0/IMAG0340.jpg

It seems to work OK (when I twist the throttle, the engine flaps open, when I release it, they snap closed) but it's not very secure. I'm afraid if I hit one bad bump, it won't work correctly.

Down at the engine side, it looks like this:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...0/IMAG0342.jpg

Would someone more mechanically inclined than me tell me how I can fix this? I have a factory manual, and a Haynes manual, and so far neither have been any help. My GoogleFu fails, too >.>

Thanks!

P.M. your address and I will come over to show you. I am home and bored and it will give me an excuse to ride.

BTW those levers look very nice!

Thanks Harley :) I'll PM you.

Bump for thoughts; still no good :(

You are missing one of the locking nuts on the right-hand cable at the engine adjuster. There should be one above and one below the bracket. As is, you can't back off the cable housing to increase tension if the cable is slack. Look at the left-hand one. See the difference?

Ern

Ern,

I do see the difference, but I'm not sure how that'll help me screw the elbow joint back into the grip?

I feel like it should disconnect somehow at the engine side, but it seems like there's no way to disconnect it without removing the spools.

I think what he is trying to say is, if you put the other nut on and fit the cable properly it will give you more slack at the top end. This might allow you to bring the elbow in?

I have enough slack at the top to tinker with it a little, but to really screw the elbow back in it seems like I'll have to rotate the grip or the cable, which means the cable will either need to come out of the grip or the engine. Similarly, to put the nut on the engine side, I'd have to get the cable off the spools to run the nut up to the top of the bracket there.

Maybe I'm thinking about this the wrong way, and should be trying to disconnect the throttle cable at the grip side?

i am trying to get my throttle working correctly on my 95 f3 right now.

the bottom return cable only has one nut on the carb side, it was like that with my old cables, and my new cables came with only one on that cable as well.

with my old set, i thought i was missing that nut as well, but there isnt even a possible way for it to come off, a nut cannot be slid through the pins on either end of the cable, and my new cable came the same way which reaffirmed my assumption..

as far as threading your ends into the handlebar spot, all i can think is that your not threading them in there straight, its happened to me a couple times in the past couple attempts but i just unscrew it and make sure its lined up and mine go all the way in.. my problem is that my throttle stays open when i roll it and wont snap back.

GL, just wanted to point out about the "missing" nut

I figured it out! Thanks for all the help.

I'll come back to this and explain, but I wanted to say I got it going (and now I want to get the rest of my bike running!)

So: The key insight (or a big one, anyway) is that the lower throttle cable attaches differently to the grip than the top cable does. Once I unscrewed it, I saw that the nut itself is attached to the threaded portion, allowing it to screw directly into the hand grip without needing to rotate the grip.

By cracking the grip, and adjusting the lower cable portion like Ern suggested, I was able to wiggle out the cable from the track, then back it out of the grip entirely. Ditto for the lower cable. Then, I could spin the grip around the upper cable elbow to thread it back in correctly. After threading the top cable back in, the bottom cable was simply a matter of turning the nut/threads to work it back into the grip.

Tighten everything back up, and it seems to work well.