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Temperature gauge/ delayed throttle response!!

  #1  
Old 11-13-2016, 09:04 PM
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Default Temperature gauge/ delayed throttle response!!

Hello everyone,
First time on the group. I just bought a 2004 CBR F4i. A few things I have concerns about in the hopes that I didn't get screwed over in the deal, because let's face it... I'm no motorcycle mechanic. But it wasn't until after I got it home I noticed details immediatialty that threw alarms in my head. #1 the temperature gauge on the rpm part of the dash doesn't read any degree in temperature. Just stays at 2 dashes (--). Not sure why it's doing this, to my knowledge it worked before and nothing was done except a new battery was installed. Any ideas would help since I don't even know where to start.
#2 now this one is more important (due to the safety factor) but I read up on this particular issue and will try some of those things out before really getting help. The issue is that every turn of the throttle there is a delayed response of the bike actually reving. Also the throttle does not spring back. I read a bit on lubing the cables, but will this also help fix the delay response? Please give me all the help you can. I greatly appreciate it, I am ready to learn!
Thank you,
M. Crippen
 
  #2  
Old 11-14-2016, 10:51 AM
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Sounds like the bike needs work. I'd check the temp gauge sensor first and check the return springs on the throttle bodies then check lube on cables but I've never lubed my cables in 10yrs and 80,000 miles of ownership so I doubt its a problem.
 
  #3  
Old 11-14-2016, 01:49 PM
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Bike needs work is a pretty scary statement, granted I'm ready to put the work in.. just makes my uneasy because I want do do all myself because I love to learn and a quick learner I am. Now I also should have mention that the throttle handle and other handle were replaced... and incorrectly fastened. So most of my problem could be right there. Finger crossed. But my concern about the temperature gauge, how does one test it to see if it's the sensor. I watched vlog of someone's 2005 CBR F4i and he said his gauge shows the double dash until about 90 degrees, then continues showing numeral temperature of engine. How long should it take to reach that, I would think sooner that 5minutes. I'll keep posting updates in throttle issue because I will be looking into it tonight. (Hopefully finding an easy fix) to help ease my conscious about my purchase. Thank you for the response.
 
  #4  
Old 11-14-2016, 01:54 PM
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2002 and never lubed either- unless it was done by a mech and he didn't tell me. I wouldn't ride a bike without a throttle return spring though.

Also, make sure there is coolant in the radiator.
 
  #5  
Old 11-14-2016, 11:05 PM
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sometimes on a cold day mine won't display temperature for a few minutes. it definitely has to cross a threshold. failing that it could be over-cooling due to a stuck open or missing thermostat, which might not reach the range of temperature necessary for display. if the sensor was screwed, it'd probably have set the FI warning light at this point.

if it turns out not being the grip giving you throttle issues (which is my first guess) i'd just pull the tank and airbox and you'll figure the throttle out really quickly.

any f4i owner needs to be able to lift the tank quickly as lots of serviceable items are hidden by the tank. on a new bike it's a good idea to check the air filter, look for weird crap in the throttle body area, and inspect the fuel lines, all of which are under the tank.. so.. go for it. it's just a few screws in your way.
 
  #6  
Old 11-16-2016, 05:28 AM
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Thank you everyone, I took apart the throttle side switches to access the cables and where the previous owner incorrectly installed the casing back. After playing with it I noticed it started springing back like normal, hurray! But as I pulled the rubber back of the grip I noticed the actual throttle tube has a crack in it. And with every rotation of throttle the crack separates at least .030" which is small but I'm replacing that since they are cheap, hopefully solving all issues with that. However, I need to find a replacement kill switch and starter casing because when they installed it incorrectly they cracked it and now it doesn't fasten shut.. which is allowing the cables to gain access to the weather, the bike is kept inside so no issues with that for now. Does anyone know if I only can buy F4i 2001-2006 used parts (kill switch and starter button) or will a newer and or any other model also work the same?
Now for the coolant, I'm looking into that, I found the reserve but the plastic being a thick fogged medium I couldn't really see inside, maybe that tells me is has little to none. I'll update after looking at it again tonight. Thank you for all the replies!
 
  #7  
Old 11-16-2016, 09:32 AM
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Check the classifieds here then eBay.
 
  #8  
Old 11-16-2016, 09:37 AM
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both left and right switch housings have part numbers that are unique to the F4i, so for a direct bolt-up and proper wire length etc, best to stick with an f4i one.

in a pinch there are definitely a lot of other honda sport bikes that have similar housings, with varying amount of work involved in adapting them.

the bars are s'posed to have an alignment hole that the switch housing locks into with a small dowel, was it cracked due to not lining up with the hole? (most common cause)
 
  #9  
Old 11-16-2016, 04:00 PM
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Not sure how to post pictures on here or even if I can, if I could I'd send the picture. Honestly I can't understand why it won't go together. The bolts and bolt holes are lined up but when fastening them the side closest to the throttle handle (which there are no bolts on that corner, nor bolt holes) wedges open about .250-.375".. a crack did form near the kill switch, not sure how they managed that but probably putting uneven pressure when assembling it. Now to make this clear, these are two different cracks, previous post to this one, one on the kill switch and starter housing, and that other one is on the throttle tube that I am replacing. I am curious if maybe they took the housing apart and when putting it back together.. perhaps messed up. So you're saying there should be a dowel on the metal bar (handle bar) that works with the housing of the switch? I found a "new-used" switch on eBay pretty cheap and in good condition I shall try that out but even still I need to make sure that I put it on correctly. I will take the housing off again tonight to search for any dowels or other reasons it won't sit together. Let me know if there is a way I can post pictures of my problem.

Can someone please tell me about the coolant system and radiator and how that works? For example, If the bike was empty on coolant or low, I just need to refill the coolant at the coolant reserve tank? Do I need to mix it? Do they come already mixed? I read something about make sure the coolant chosen is compatible with aluminum engines, is that true? Also, do I need to check radiator water level or refill it? Thanks so much for the help!
 
  #10  
Old 11-16-2016, 04:12 PM
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Can someone please tell me about the coolant system and radiator and how that works? For example, If the bike was empty on coolant or low, I just need to refill the coolant at the coolant reserve tank? Do I need to mix it? Do they come already mixed? I read something about make sure the coolant chosen is compatible with aluminum engines, is that true? Also, do I need to check radiator water level or refill it? Thanks so much for the help!
every coolant these days is compatible with aluminum radiators, but i'd use actual honda coolant since it's really good stuff.

you should fill it from the rad cap first, run the bike for a minute so it'll burp then fill the rad again. then top the res off.

Not sure how to post pictures on here or even if I can, if I could I'd send the picture. Honestly I can't understand why it won't go together. The bolts and bolt holes are lined up but when fastening them the side closest to the throttle handle (which there are no bolts on that corner, nor bolt holes) wedges open about .250-.375".. a crack did form near the kill switch, not sure how they managed that but probably putting uneven pressure when assembling it. Now to make this clear, these are two different cracks, previous post to this one, one on the kill switch and starter housing, and that other one is on the throttle tube that I am replacing. I am curious if maybe they took the housing apart and when putting it back together.. perhaps messed up. So you're saying there should be a dowel on the metal bar (handle bar) that works with the housing of the switch? I found a "new-used" switch on eBay pretty cheap and in good condition I shall try that out but even still I need to make sure that I put it on correctly. I will take the housing off again tonight to search for any dowels or other reasons it won't sit together. Let me know if there is a way I can post pictures of my problem.
the dowel is in the switch housing. there's a hole in the handlebar for it. this is for alignment so the switch housing can't move around on the bar. replacement aftermarket bars don't have holes so you'll have to drill them yourself (or grind the dowel off the switch housing)
 

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