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Shop charging me $154 for new battery. doesnt this seem high...

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  #11  
Old 06-17-2009, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by some guy #2
^Is it the type you have to fill yourself? I got the sealed gel one and I know those are more expensive
Yes you fill it yourself or the dude at the shop will do it for you right there, it's SUPER easy.
 
  #12  
Old 06-17-2009, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dave ls1
If it's a YUASA battery, then that price is correct.
I bought a new Yuasa for $180 in sept when I bought my bike. that sucka died on me 3 times already. running fine now after a jump, but i'll have to get a new one soon (now). But I'm worried that I have to get that brand of battery again; WHAT MAKES YUASA COST THAT MUCH MORE THAN OTHERS?

Does the F4i have a recommended brand?
 
  #13  
Old 06-17-2009, 04:59 PM
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Yuasa is oem and sealed batteries are stongly recommended because of safety. You are sitting right on top of it, and supposedly sealed gel batteries are less likely to explo
 
  #14  
Old 06-17-2009, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by cman9toes
Yuasa is oem and sealed batteries are stongly recommended because of safety. You are sitting right on top of it, and supposedly sealed gel batteries are less likely to explo
As far as I'm concerned, they don't have enough juice to explode. Are exploding batteries common?
 
  #15  
Old 06-17-2009, 09:35 PM
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They have plenty of "juice" to explode.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead-acid_battery scroll down to exploding battery and imagine that between your legs.

This is the one area I feel spending money on the thing that is bike specific. I use a car filter, diesel oil, regular gas, plug my tires, but I use a Yuasa YTZ10S battery. (Although I bought mine for far less than most $70.)

The Yami dealer in Mcdonough, GA sells them cheap.
 
  #16  
Old 06-23-2009, 10:56 PM
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Damn, it did it again!

After 10 days w/o starting, I came home, and tried to start but it was dead. I gave it a jump (from my car) then rode off the a bit. Ironically, I rode to the dealership to inquiry about another issue (clanking sound up front when in 1st and 2nd) and as I was leaving--mind you never turning the ignition off-- it sputtered, then died. I mean died dead; no crank no nothing. Luckily the shop gave me another jump and I got home safely.

I still ask: WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON?

Sidenote: asking the mechanic about "revs that maintain a charge" and he said that F4i's should do it at 2-3rpms,and not at high revs... I'm so confused. (I know this is probable the Noob-Wit-Problems-Syndrome, but I need y'all help.)
 
  #17  
Old 06-24-2009, 08:12 AM
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have you checked the terminal connections
 
  #18  
Old 06-24-2009, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Bonafide
Damn, it did it again!

After 10 days w/o starting, I came home, and tried to start but it was dead. I gave it a jump (from my car) then rode off the a bit. Ironically, I rode to the dealership to inquiry about another issue (clanking sound up front when in 1st and 2nd) and as I was leaving--mind you never turning the ignition off-- it sputtered, then died. I mean died dead; no crank no nothing. Luckily the shop gave me another jump and I got home safely.

I still ask: WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON?

Sidenote: asking the mechanic about "revs that maintain a charge" and he said that F4i's should do it at 2-3rpms,and not at high revs... I'm so confused. (I know this is probable the Noob-Wit-Problems-Syndrome, but I need y'all help.)
https://cbrforum.com/forum/showthrea...ghlight=stator
 
  #19  
Old 06-24-2009, 06:53 PM
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You don't need to spend that much on a battery!

shop around a little bit.
 
  #20  
Old 06-24-2009, 09:12 PM
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most of the batteries that don't last very long were probably never given their initial charge by either the dealer or the customer

usually they're fine if the first crank leads to being ridden for quite some time, but if you crank then ride 5 minutes, rinse and repeat...you'll kill the battery in a hurry
 


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