Heh "clank" and "clack" aren't technical terms. To me, a clank would be more metallic sounding, like if the chain was snapping up the slack and hitting the swingarm / chain guard. A clack is more dull sounding to me, like when I miss my clutch and the engine starts to fight going into the next gear. I'll hear the tranny trying to sync up and failing on the gear change.

Measuring chain slack is simple. Grab a ruler / tape measure, find the loosest spot on the lower part your chain and measure how far you can lift it up.

 

I would say it's 5/8 roughly. Also, like I said it just sounds like the chain/sprocket are not syncing. It doesn't happen all the time I just notice it occasionally.

 

5/8th of an inch? Chain is too tight if so.

http://www.shraz.net/motorcycle/f4i/drivechain/ for a how to on adjusting chain slack

 

sorry dude, i measured wrong, upon lifting up it measures about 6/8 and pressing down it measures about 2/8, so 1in.

 

I think you have answered your own question. If getting n sometimes then your not shifting hard enough, and if that noise is only during the shift, it is your trans trying to mesh together. I know how you think it would be sprockets it does have that metal teeth sound to it. Try shifting harder and see what happens.

 

Hey everyone. Beginner here. When you guys are driving in slow speed/stop and go conditions, for example traffic or in a parking lot with stop signs etc...Are you primarily just staying in first and using (depressing/releasing) the clutch all the time non-stop? How high of rpm should I feel comfortable keeping first in? I mean if I am going stop sign to stop sign or in stop n go traffic, should I just be keeping her in first the whole time? Its a given if I am in an empty parking lot or street I can pull off rolling through the stop in 2nd without stalling it out but I was wondering if everyone stays in first and how high they rev before upshifting in stop n go situations!

 

When I'm not feeling lazy, I use 2nd mostly. 1st is a very twitchy gear and reacts to the slightest throttle changes. Have your hands too tight on the bars and a bump can cause a severe lurch from accidental input. Also constantly riding in the friction zone on the clutch will wear on the clutch more.

Practice using 2nd gear + rear brake in a parking lot. You can maintain a higher RPM and use the rear brake to modulate your speed. Brake pads are hella cheaper than a new clutch. If worse comes to worse, use 1st and again the rear brake to modulate your speed.

 

Thanks. SO you are saying you keep it in 2nd and use the rear brake while giving it a bit of throttle to keep the revs up and keep you from stalling?

 

Yes unless I've got to go reaaaaaally slow. Then 1st. It's something you have to practice and get the feel for. Using the friction zone constantly is not good for the clutch's lifetime. And its also dangerous because of accidental inputs. Like accidentally dumping the clutch.

If you're gonna practice it, go to a parking lot and start with first gear. The amount of RPMs you need to maintain without stalling needs less throttle so you won't go rocketing off while you're getting the feel for it. And modulate the rear brake. Light taps to maintain the speed you want, not standing on it. You don't want to use the front brake for this cause it'll drop the front out from under you incredibly fast if you're not careful. Think "Instant Lowside"

You'll get the feel for it in first and work on your throttle control. Once you do, you'll be able to do it in any gear. When you get good enough, you'll be able to creep your bike along slower that people walking on the sidewalk.

P.S.
There really is no set gear, RPM or speed (other than the speed limit) for riding except what feels comfortable to you. Some guys like to stay in the lower gears so they have power availible in case of an emergency. Runs the RPMs higher and uses more gas. Some like the higher gear selections, staying around 4k -5k rpm, for the fuel economy and reduced engine strain. If they need more power, they'll downshift and disappear. So long as its below redline and above stalling, it'll be a preference. Not a rule

 

Thanks Kuroshiro-I will practice on the 2nd gear and rear brake roll Ya I hate first gear and constantly trying to feel out the friction zone so I dont stall or jerk the bike..Its funny bc the feeler spot and clutch on this bike is pretty small/narrow and quite a ways out! Its funny bc sometimes when my girls on the back and Im at a stop, and start accelerating out of the stop via the friction zone I tend to rev it up a little as Im not used to the clutch friction zone being that far out! I in turn end up revving a little before the clutch engauges while a car is waiting for me and she giggles Ill get used to it. But yes I try to get out of 1rst as soon as possible and ride in 2nd for any low speeds aside from a dead stop! From my experience it seems the bike can handle pretty darn low rpm's in 2nd without stalling so I've been doing that.

Ive beenreading this post and I too have a simliar issue with the bike jerking at specific times. I understand these bikes are jerky at low speeds/rpm's by default, but sometimes it gets excessive and IM not sure why? I am in the right gear matching my engine's rpm to my pavement speed so I wonder if I have my chain is too tight? After my rims/tires replacement I think my buddy may have tighterned the chain to much as noticed by the lack of slack that it had before!

I'm unclear where exactly I should be measuring. I understand how to find the loosest point (usually rt in the middle) but what am I measuring? I've looked at diagrams and IM still not getting it. If I push up on the bottom of the chain am I measuring the distance between how far up it went from where it sits normally?