Let me start off by saying that my bike has been sitting (an will sit for extended periods in the future) in the AZ summer (covered) under shade...A brand new battery was purchased 3 months ago..I started her up today after about 2 weeks and she felt weak during warming up idle..I mean she idled at the right 1k-1300 but just seem lacking juice...SO I waited until the temp hit 115 and took her out for a couple higher rpm 5-6k (lol I know I know Im a noob in a parking lot though give me a break!!!) to have the stator charge the even new battery!

So today was the first day I actually got my 01 up to high enough temps to have the fan come on. Im glad my fan works and I can vouch that it comes on at 223. When it comes on and Im at a stand still it will slowly goes down to 221 then fan will turn off. So Im happy the fan and cooling system is working as it should.

I read that the earlier year F4i's (01-03?) had a "clunky" gearbox and that it was not a fault but rather they are just like that. I did notice that shifting from neutral into first produces a considerable clunk. I actually like it. Lets me know the shift occurred and the bikes ready to go. I notice how FAR out the clutch grabs on these bikes and Im getting used to it (I know I can adjust my clutch lever at the handle and at the gearbox) Shifting seems to not need a full pull in of the lever but I find myself doing it a bit. During shifts 2-3 3-4 It seems the clutch lever BARLEY needs to be pulled. Seems like it only needs a split second pull. What was odd to me, and maybe its just bc Im a noob to bikes, is that shifting up and down 2-3 3-4 4-5 5-4 -4-3 3-2 I can BARELY feel the shift (at my toe and with the entire bike and gearbox) Sometimes I wonder if it even shifted!! I just dont "feel" the bike switch gears...Now I know it is ideal to not feel the shift and be as smooth as possible (have clutch plates in synch with motor rpm) but I find myself wondering if I indeed made the shift...This is obviously at lower speeds (as at higher rpm I would know by the drop in rpm to the next gear) Is it normal for the shifts to be so "soft"..almost like a "click" into gear on shifts

Lastly, I noticed that after my oil and filter change (which I put in 3.5Q of Mobile1 4MT 10-40) but after letting it sit, and on level ground, the oil is over the top line! What the harm in a little too much oil? I mean it cant be MUCH over...I could always drain a little from the plug?

I have no FI or gauge lights on during riding but as soon as I turn the bike off but in the on position..I get a red light and a oil flashing sign? Hmmm.

I can also vouch that the fan stays on if you turn the bike off (when the fans cooling) but have key to on position...the temp stayed at 223 then fan cooled to 221 then fan went off....All of this sound correct?

Thanks for dealling with my noob-ness brosifs

 

The red light and oil sign are the oil pressure lights. Don't worry if the engine isn't running but the key is on. It's indicating there's no oil pressure... Because with the engine off there is no oil pressure.

Fan and cooling system is working fine. Those numbers are in spec for when it kicks on and off. Nothing to worry about on the high temp until you start ticking over 235F and continue to climb. Engine Overheat is at 250F... Or when boiling coolant flies out of your bike because you ignored the engine temp

Shifting... I'm sure you've heard it mentioned it is possible to shift 1-6 without the clutch. Done correctly, the engine will slide into the next gear with just a slight lift of the lever. You can find out how by searching the forum. But continue using your clutch till you've completely mastered it and matching revs. When you do, clutchless shifting will already be almost completely natural. Only thing you'll have to learn is how to stop yourself from pulling the unnecessary clutch lever.

 

Shifting sounds great. Generally, as long as there is no slippage under acceleration then you are fine with the clutch (slippage would indicate the clutch is not fully engaging - makes shifting easier for sure, but you get slippage - not good). If everything is set up right, shifting can be as smooth as silk.

When you check oil, run the bike for at least 2-3 minutes, then turn it off and check the oil level with the bike upright on level ground. Once the engine is stopped, it will rapidly fill the sight glass, then it will very, very slowly continue to fill once the engines sits longer and longer and the oil drains very slowly downward. That's why you need to check immediately after stopping the engine.

With ignition on and engine not running, the Oil Pressure indicator and red warning light will be on. Start the engine, they both go off.

Temps are Within Normal Limits.

Most important question, though: Having fun with your CBR??

 

Honda suggests: 3.3qt of oil.
Put 3qts in, then ride around the block.
Then, put remaining .3qt and check levels.

On shifting: I've noticed the feeling too. Makes you second-guess if you actually shifted or not. (1st to 2nd does seem to be the most cumbersome shift sequence; a lot of false 2nds in comparison to the other gear transitions.)

 

The clunk when you shift out of neutral is normal.

Really try working on only pulling the clutch lever back until the clutch disengages. Your shifts will become a lot quicker and smoother, and you'll develop habits that will make clutchless shifting easier to pick up once you get to that point.

How fast are you going when you make this shifts that are hard to feel? The slower you're going, the easier it is to get really smooth shifts because gears are already rotating at about the same rate.

As the others have said, all your temps are within spec.

 

Thanks guys. Im glad my cooling system is doing its job and that the red light and oil symbol is normal (no psi at off)..I understand that If I recieve a red light and indicator during engine on that thats a different story

Randyjoy thanks mayne yes I am enjoying it thus far...its funny...I take care maintaining it more than I ride right now..(feeling the bike out and respecting its power)..anti-squidness stuff

Sounds like the clutch-less shifting is the way to go once I get the tiny friction point on the clutch lever mastered

I believe I have .3 or .4 quarts too much oil in...is this ok?

Kowen you are right...my shifts are at rather low speeds so Im sure thats why Im not feeling them as much as say a 11k 3-4

 

As long as there's not toooo much oil in it, it'll be fine but you don't want it to overfill or it will burn off the excess. I must admit I didn't read this whole thread but who said clutchless shifting is a good thing??

 

^Clutchless shifting is a debate. Does marginal damage, but your clutch lasts longer. It's a personal call.

I actually HATE that neutral to first gear clunk, because I've gotten much better recently with my shifts and find myself saying in my head "Ok, use the clutch on this shift, because the last 15 upshifts you've done you haven't used it" I'm getting to be that smooth where it's really easy.

I have little faith in my fan anymmore when it's pushing 90 degrees outside. I normally just turn my bike off at the light, either to "off" position, or just kill the motor. Either way it drops the temp MUCH faster and is more comfortable.

I take pride in my shifting ability. I know that may sound cocky, but I've had other people comment on my driving, but I've also ridden with a fair share of bad drivers.

 

Thanks. It sounds like the .3/.4quarts overage of oil I have in there should be ok then

Real quick, I know that it has been covered in numerous threads..but could someone give a brief (one/two sentances even) description of "how" my clutch and brake lever should feel? The tension/tightness? Also, I know on the clutch lever you move both the nut and circular screw together to adjust tension/tightness, but what about the brake? I read somewhere here that for the clutch lever your nut should be all the way to the left (towards the lever itself) with the tolerance to put a penny in between the nut and circular screw..Im not sure If that setting is would be optimal. What are the tolerances between your nut and screw? (<--that sounds wierd )

Edit: I really like these grips...I dont like the look of flashy colors etc.. rather I prefer the solid/sleek look of bikes. Initially I thought these grips were too ricey/squidy, but the more I look t them I think they would look really sharp on my bike. Problem is, I cant find them anywhere!! Not even on ebay. Any help?
http://m.ebay.com/Pages/RbHttpHandle...2FPC220731.jpg

 

just use the clutch when you shift, clutchless shifting probably isnt something you should be doing this early in the game, i've been riding for 7 years now and i usually always use mine. as far as the feel of your clutch and shifting go, when you pull in the clutch and shift you should barely feel it aside from the clunk your talking about. have you ever used a torque wrench that clicks it should kinda feel like that when you shift. when your bike is off and just sitting hop on it and just shift up through the gears you can hear and feel it. the grips your looking at are rock hard i have had a set and i will never again.