How do you go about it? Checked the manual and it doesnt appear to have a ride height adjustment, do any of you guys know how do it?

 

me too?

 

decreasing the preload will bring the bike up when its on its own, but it'll still more than likely still ride at the height it was, since you still weigh the same.

but dont go all fiddlin with your suspention to get it riding higher, thats a quick way to make a bike handle like poo. (suspension settings are everything)

 

INCREASING preload will have the effect of raising the rear when loaded, but that is NOT what you want to do.

There is no RIDE HEIGHT adjustment on the F4i. For that you need to get a aftermarket shock.

You can shim the rear shock 5mm and it will increase you turn in, HOWEVER it will reduce your straight line stability stability.

Bottom line.....don't monkey with the suspension geometry unless you know what you are doing.

 

also, you can add a few washers at the upper area of the shock to raise it some, but too much it will get unstable.

i gots a penske rear and it lets you adjust ride height...AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

but yea too much and the bike feels funky...dives hard but is unstable.

 

tahoe, what about shimming the rear 5 mm to increase turn-in and ground clearance?

 

i think it's the same thing as adding the washers no? we'll let bd answer that one.

5mm isn't that much but does make a difference.

or you can be safe, do less than 5 and drop the front a bit and see how you like it.

it can make the front feel like it turns in faster but feel very 'weighty'

 

My brothers bike was lowered and it feels really bad in the corners. you have to struggle to hold it in line. It keeps feeling like it wants to dive into corners farther than you want it to go.

 

That is exactly what I was talking about. You add a couple of washers (shims) between the upper shock mount and the frame.


Are you sure the rear was lowered and not just the front? The front forks should be flush with the top of the clip-ons (handlebars). If the front forks were dropped and the rear was not lowered then it would have a similar effect to shimming the rear except you would lose ground clearance and not gain the extra swingarm angle.

Shimming it will make the bike "dive" into corners. This is BAD if you don't know how to ride. If you know how to ride this IS what you want. You want the bike to lean over as fast as possible. The biggest frustration in the world is trying to lean a bike that dosent want to lean.[:@] It comes second only to trying to stop a bike that dosent want to stop.[:'(]

Let me put it this way. If you aren't "throwing" the bike into corners, then powering it out wide open at 10K+, don't mess with modifying the geometry. If you aren't pushing the machine, then you aren't going to gain anything from it, and you WILL lose stability that you may need if you aren't a great rider.

I havent shimmed mine yet, because I havent bought a damper and I think I can still get more out of the stock suspension before I need to monkey with it.