Proper Way to store Bike for Winter???
 

What is the proper way to winterize bike? I usually just put it in basement for winter without hooking up to battery tender or anyting. I have new battery this year. Do i need a tender or will it be ok? also what gas levels should be in the bike? should i run it empty or fill it and put some sort of stabalizer in the tank? what about fluids? Im sort of ignorant so all advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike

I normally store mine in the garage.

First thing I do is get the tires off the concrete so they dont sit all winter. I then fill the tank up and add stabil fluid to the tank.

Last thing I do is use a battery tender jr to the battery.

All other fluids I usually change when I take the bike back out in spring. Oil change etc.

I would use Ethenol treatment stabilzer and maybe some sea foam. I have mine in the basement and have a rug underneath it but a bike stand works too. I use only 91 octane because gas really sucks now.

AHHHHHHH I FORGOT TO TAKE OUT MY BATTERY....

****... thanks for reminding me...

put the stabilizer in it and thn run it for half hour or so to get it circulated through the system. If you are really paranoid don't leave much fuel in it because ethonol is hydroscopic (personally, I woulsn't worry about what fuel level is in it).

I get to use my F4i year round!:icon_teeth:
South Texas probably gets as low as 40 degrees, if that! WoOT!

Lol, seriously though, I'd worry most about two things.
1) Adding some kind of Fuel Stabilizer.
2) Taking out the battery and putting it on a battery tender. (Although when I lived in Maryland and winterized, I hooked up the tender directly to the battery in motorbike, no problems)

Double check all fluid levels when Spring/Summer season comes along, and you're all set.:icon_wink:

Winterizing tips..
 

I live in Maine and its so cold here you don't want to go outside unless you have about four layers on sometimes.
When you put the battery back in depending on if it has water in it or not remember to check the levels to because you can ruin a cell with no water and also don't put it on concrete either.
It drains a battery..
Another thing make sure its room temp if your charging it...

As far as fuel levels, I have about a 1/4 tank in one of my hurricanes of which has been stabilzed plenty. Fuel seperates after about 3 months.
I plan on starting my bike pretty often but thats my choice.
The lawnmower battery I removed over a week ago and is sitting on a shelf.
Don't forget your outside hose too...lol
:icon_wink:

anything wrong with just not winterizing a bike and starting it up like twice a week?

No - truth be told there probably isn't anything wrong with lnot winterizing it and starting it once between now and next spring....

Take the battery out, and with a liquid cooled bike make sure the coolant is good for whatever temp it will be stored at. You don't want to take it out in the spring and find your block's cracked because the coolant froze. Fuel stabilizer is a good idea, but I've never had any problem with gas going bad without it over the winter (or over the summer, with snowmobiles).

I don't see the point of a battery tender, personally I think it's a scam. I grew up working in the family bike/snowmobile dealership and one class of vehicle or the other was always sitting waiting for the right season. Thousands of batteries over the years, stored at room temp on a shelf, not one ever saw a tender and didn't hurt any of them a bit.

winter storage
 

My suzuki savage last year had a clogged muffler because the previous owner had let it sit for 9 years due to an illness. As far as gas, I had quite an issue with the gas, but my ninja the year before was fine and had almost a full tank in the top of my dads garage. Personally put stabilzer in it and run it. If the storage is cold remove the battery to room temp and you will be fine. If the bike is in room temp then run it if you can and your fine.

:icon_snow:

There are certain things you should do, depending on the climate and where the bike will be stored, such as if its a more humid area, you can take off the chain to keep the rust off, pour a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder to keep out surface rust, rub a LIGHT coat of oil on the forks to keep surface rust from forming in knicks, putting a bag over the exhaust to keep critters from building nests, and little things like that. I've had to store my previous bikes in diferen ways because the temp and climate in a garage in wisconsin is differet from an occasionally heated garage in North Carolina to stoing the bike outside in New Jersey.

My garage stays above freezing in the winter. All I do is fill the tank, put the bike on stands, disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, and cover it. Once every month or two I'll run it for a bit.

If anything its better to start them once every other week if possible. Easier on your motor(valve springs). Based on over time some will weaken more than others if they are holding in a position with a bunch of tension on them(same as car motors).

Its a good idea to put a fuel stabilizer in there since gas will go bad and also these bikes are sensitive to octane.

Getting flat spots is a myth for cars. For bike I have no clue yet I would assume the same, as long as pressure are in the correct setting.

Be sure to put moth balls and steel wool around it based on mice. Some people take blue painters tape and plug the tail pipe.

Charge your battery every other week so that the cells don't get to dead. If your battery is brand new you don't have to worry about it yet as it ages the cells inside break apart from electrolysis.

Coolant should be good as well. If bad will crack the head and as well electrolysis can occur if it's a positive charge.

Starting every two weeks as well as charging every two weeks is overkill. The valves can handle it. 6+ months if sitting is where problems start to arise.

I never do stabilizer, but I wouldn't recommend against it. It can't hurt. And I don't really know what "sensitive to octane" is supposed to mean, but it sounds ludicrous. Feel free to explain. (Personally I think "bad gas" is a stupid excuse for anything. I've never had an issue with gas, nor as anyone I know, bike or otherwise.)

Simply disconnecting the battery will eliminate 99% of drain. As long as it can hold a decent charge, it would be fine sitting for 6+ months. I've done this for three winters and have the same battery.

Let something sit long enough with gas in it and you'll change your tune. A year or two will cause serious trouble. I just serviced a Honda-engined pressure washer that had been stored for 8 years without draining the gas or adding stabilizer . . . the stuff that came out was brown and smelled kind of like how I imagine the urine of a hobo might smell, if he was dying of bladder cancer.

Well sure, that's over a much longer time period. Your gas isn't going to go bad in a winter. And like I said, if you're pushing it, stabilizer can't hurt. Anyone with half a brain can prevent any sort of "bad gas" issues...

Completely agree - letting something sit for 6 or 9 months isn't going to cause problems if it has fresh gas in it to start with.

The overzealous fuel nuts are way overboard. Some guy on another thread I was reading told the OP that fuel will begin to go bad over 2 weeks....

Are both stands necessary, or is the rear stand good enough?

directly from 2 wheel tuner
 

the article in the magazine says:

1. fill your tank up with gas and add stabilizer. this way if the temp changes and you get condensation ,it is on the outside of the tank and not the inside

2. cranking it up for periods of time makes condensation worse, when the engine heats up the gas tank warms up .if you dont have a full tank this makes condensation in the tank worse because you warm it then it cools again causing even worse condensation

3. coolant. make sure your coolant levels are up to spec. the higher the ratio of coolant to water the better the freeze protection.

4. cold kills batteries, even new ones, so take the battery out and store inside, a tender is very helpful

Winterizing...getting tires off concrete?
 

Is there an issue with concrete itself? or just getting tires off the hard surface because of flat spots? Is there a cheaper alternative than getting a front and a back stand? Anyone?

I believe it is to prevent flat spots, take the weight off the suspension, as well as prevent cracking and drying out of the the tires from the cold ground. I put carpets under my tires to try and keep them off the bare concrete. I may buy a stand in the future but i got my bike recently and dont really have any more money for that atm lol.

Check out ebay. I found a set for 70 and another for 83. I was just wondering if you really need them both, or is the rear one sufficient