Hey all, looked at a 04 600f4i today. 25k miles. I dont know much about them. It has a sick airbrushed flame paintjob, has a very very small amount of rash on front brake lever. Its very minimal. Everything lines up straight, rides straight, runs awesome!

The bike is kept indoors, a guy from a local nuclear plant owns it. Has lots of cool toys, has lots of money lol. It has a yoshimira full exhaust (said header is aftermarket to but idk, its stainless), a powercommander, both new tires, new chain and sprockets (both stock replacments)

The only thing i found was the clutch let out way up top. The owner informed me if you really got on the bike hard pulling off itll slip a bit and a new "stage 2" clutch comes with it in the box. He claims clutch replacement was locally quoted $80 to install.(seems unlikely) i couldnt get it to slip any, also did some downshifting to check for pop outs. Bike looks great, has a lot of new parts and is very clean...

Im going to look and drive it again in the morning and am thinking about pulling the trigger.

Now based on the clutch, the price is $2800. Seems fair i think. Tell me what i should check/inspect. Thanks guys! Im open to all suggestions and advice, all input is appreciated.

 

The 04's are great bikes. And 25k miles isn't really all that much, especially since it seems like he took good care of it.

In excellent condition, she books for $3400, so I wouldn't see that his 28 is that far off at all.

When test driving again, I'd listen for any rattling noises, or a can of bb's sound. If this is happening, the CCTL would need to be replaced. It's only a $50 part, but it's kind of a pita to replace.

 

Well, If you have a clutch coming with it, remember that you will need an oil change to go with it (about 60 dollars or so with quality oil). Make sure to check the clutch type / oil compatibility. Also make sure there is a little free play in the lever especially with the handlebars turned all the way to the right. If not it will cause the clutch to slip worse.

Cam chain tensioner will go bad if not already replaced. It may have a manual cam chain tensioner which will require attention when servicing the bike.

Look down through on to the top of the fork seals for ANY signs of seepage, and check for signs of grime in the fender around the shock. If the seals are leaking, they are cheap, but having them repaired is not if you have to take it to a shop. It has enough age and miles to look for this. Also check the top of the fender under the headlights to see if it has been bottomed against the faring (this indicates the shocks are set soft or need serviced because the oil leaked out).

CHECK THE COOLANT BOTTLE.. if it is full within the limits and appears to have nice clean green coolant in it then you are golden. IF it has black scum just a little in one spot like a cow spot then the rubber hoses are aging and the system needs flushed. But if there is a lot of scum, or this is empty it could mean trouble.

Watch the temp gauge and let the bike idle after you have ridden it to make sure the fan kicks on @ 225 or 230 degrees.

LOOK UNDER IT and anywhere else you can see between faring and engine closely.. with a flashlight for streaks. White, green, or other. White looking like salt stains would be from slow coolant leaks.

I don't see this as a bartering chip, more so a save your but down the road chip. If you catch it now you either bargain your way to a lower price so you can cover it later if you find something wrong, or pay the price.

I hope this helps. I didn't list everything, but those are the major boo boo areas i have found on this specific bike that are easy to spot.

Is the tool kit under the seat? It actually helps to have it when you need to adjust your chain on the road if you travel.

PS, that stainless header is certainly aftermarket.

 

This is what I used to evaluate my bike, you definitely need to pull the side fairings off and see whats going on under the skin. If he refuses then walk away.

Used Motorcycle Evaluation Guide

 

Ok guys. First off, thanks for all the input and the nice welcome. Other forums wouldve gave me a bunch of replies sayin "search!"

I pulled the trigger and bought the bike. I really couldnt find anything i didnt like. The coolant is a little dark, but the owner confirmed it hasnt been changed in 2 seasons. He gave me a kevlar EBC clutch kit w/ springs. The local honda dealer quoted me $100-130 for install. I figured ill have the coolant and oil changed at the same time.

I listened for any rattling or anything and i hear a slight rattling when held at 5k cruising. Its not very loud, doesnt sound bad. I dont hear it idling. Im going to price having a timing chain tensioner replaced tomorrow. A friend who used to have a f4i informed me its not that big of a deal to replace yourself. But id rather have the dealer do it.

Only place i see any damage is the right bar end and brake lever is barely scuffed. And the exhaust pipe right before muffler has a small scuff. The right side peg is so barely scratched it took some hard looking to find. It pulls nice and straight. Handlebars turn evenly and smooth, stop at same place turning both ways. All the gaps are close and even on the fairings.

While cruising it runs about 178degrees. Inside the gas tank is super clean.

I dont fully understand what the powercommander does but he gave me the cd with it.

The forks show no signs of any leaks ever. I looked under the front fairing to see if there were any signs of it bottoming out on the fender, no signs of any damage. The previous owner said he cant and never tried a wheelie. Put 5k miles on it in the 2 years he owned it.

It fires up very fast effortlessly.

Only question i have now is how bad does it sound like my timing chain tensioner is? Id like to ride it the rest of september and get everything done over the winter if possible.

Any could someone explain the tuner for me? I dont have access to a computer right now.

Again any input/info, common mods, ect is all appreciated. Thanks!

Also. I need to lower it, its a tad to tall for me. Im on my toes at stoplights haha

Whats the best way to lower it right? Just looking for 1-2''

 

damn.. I'm looking for a header w/ more a more open flow.. driving me crazy.. don't want to buy a whole new setup because I have a two brothers slipon.. and a full exhaust is big $$.. why does nobody just make a nice header w/ a slighter larger diameter.. maybe a 4:1 instead of the 4:2:1.

 

an easy thing you can do to lower it a bit while preventing your suspension hitting things its not supposed to, is to lower your preload.
this is done with a spanner wrench on the rear shock, and i dunno what size on the front forks.
the preload is the initial weight that is required to compress the suspension. so if you lower it, your weight and bikes weight will sag it into the suspension.
otherwise with it all the way up, you will have to jump on it do compress the suspension since it takes more force to compress

 

Sounds like you got a nice one. The rattling thing is bound to be the CCTL. Opinions on how desperately you need to change it are all over the place. Pretty much the only bad thing that can come of it (to the best of my knowledge) is your timing chain can jump teeth if there's too much slack which is not a situation you want to be in. I've literally never heard of this happening though, and have read posts where people stated they thought it was a normal noise for the bike to make and rode for tens of thousands of miles before replacing it with no problems. However, it's a $60 part and it can be done at home if you have the patience or you can take it to a mechanic and absorb the $150 or so labor charge, which isn't that bad. While they're in there maybe they could check the plugs for you? You're probably ok to leave it until the winter but I'm not a pro mechanic so you probably shouldn't listen to me anyway

As for your Power Commander question - Simply the PC is a fuel injection tuner. Usually people use it when they've installed a full aftermarket exhaust, aftermarket injectors or race cam. When you have access to a computer here's a link that pretty much explains it.

Power Commander Product Information

I wouldn't worry too much about damage on the bike. Maybe it's just me that feels this way but bikes get dropped. People drop them in turns, in parking lots, in driveways etc. Other than cosmetics they usually run just fine once they're picked up and minor parts are replaced like shifters, levers etc. (if necessary). It's so hard to find bikes that are a few years old that don't have some kind of damage from being dropped. Especially sport bikes. Make sure it tracks straight, that there's no visible damage to the frame or swing arm and you should be ok. This is just my opinion. I'm sure there are plenty of people that disagree with me, I just wouldn't worry all that much about it.

Sounds like running temp is not an issue. If I remember correctly you got it for around $2800, that's practically theft considering what people want for less clean examples here in SoCal. It's usually around 1k more. I'd be very happy with my purchase if I got a deal like that.

As for lowering it, if you only need an inch or two you could just slide your *** sideways on the seat a little and flatfoot with one foot, enduro style, rather than messing with the geometry of the bike. Lowering these bikes seems to be really popular and in some cases it's probably necessary but if you can get away with not doing it and becoming comfortable with how it is I'd say that might be the way to go. Others will probably be able to give you more/ better info on this but this is just how I feel.

 

I had lowered my bike 20 mm so I could flat foot both side, I recently removed my own stainless home made kit as my bike was weird in corners when getting hard on the gas, now it rides like its on rails, and I sit enduro when I come to stop, my advise is if you can avoid lowering it then do. I think I posted a link ages ago on my dog bones if not Ill try to dig the design out.

 

https://cbrforum.com/forum/f4i-main-...14/#post991799