Oil weight question???
#12
03-25-2009, 12:06 PM
this is an easy one to have an opinion on. I went to school to be a mechanic so i'll sum up my educational experience on the subject.
You can use synthetic or crude, car or motorcycle as long as it meets the SAE requirements described in the manual. Keep in mind that the motorcycle uses oil for the engine, wet clutch, and the transmission though so if you use "car" oil it may sheer the viscosity index quicker. I happen to use the full synthetic motorcycle oil MOTUL 300V 4T 5w40. it costs about $16 per quart but it is the same color as Hi-C ecto cooler juice, which was the determining factor in my purchase decision. Anyways, using a smaller winter (w does NOT stand for weight) number will improve the efficiency of your engine and the ability for the oil to cool it (remember ~18% of cooling is done via oil system). However, it but may cause it to wear out more quickly and destroy the additives under extreme operating conditions (ie constant high-load high-reving). It's analagous to lubricating yoru engine with vegitable oil (0w30) or peanut butter (10w40). Peanut butter may not break down as quickly, but also may not always be necessary. Also some things to keep in mind in choosing an oil:
if you use full synthetic it will turn black quickly. this doesn't mean it's time to change this means the additive package has been activated.
if you use full synthetic you will likely burn a little oil because of the adhesion to the cylander walls (this is good) so check regularly.
if you use crude oil and it turns black it is time to change regardless of how many miles because your additive package has been expended.
synthetics in my experience will make your shifting faster/smoother and engine run cooler.
You can use synthetic or crude, car or motorcycle as long as it meets the SAE requirements described in the manual. Keep in mind that the motorcycle uses oil for the engine, wet clutch, and the transmission though so if you use "car" oil it may sheer the viscosity index quicker. I happen to use the full synthetic motorcycle oil MOTUL 300V 4T 5w40. it costs about $16 per quart but it is the same color as Hi-C ecto cooler juice, which was the determining factor in my purchase decision. Anyways, using a smaller winter (w does NOT stand for weight) number will improve the efficiency of your engine and the ability for the oil to cool it (remember ~18% of cooling is done via oil system). However, it but may cause it to wear out more quickly and destroy the additives under extreme operating conditions (ie constant high-load high-reving). It's analagous to lubricating yoru engine with vegitable oil (0w30) or peanut butter (10w40). Peanut butter may not break down as quickly, but also may not always be necessary. Also some things to keep in mind in choosing an oil:
if you use full synthetic it will turn black quickly. this doesn't mean it's time to change this means the additive package has been activated.
if you use full synthetic you will likely burn a little oil because of the adhesion to the cylander walls (this is good) so check regularly.
if you use crude oil and it turns black it is time to change regardless of how many miles because your additive package has been expended.
synthetics in my experience will make your shifting faster/smoother and engine run cooler.
#13
03-25-2009, 02:37 PM
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DO NOT USE REGULAR CAR OIL.
use motorcycle oil. The reason being is that your clutch is also run with the same oil as your bike motor and the oil you buy is designed to do that. If you get car oil it will not be good for your clutch.
also 10w-40 is what is recommended in the manual but I run 20w-50 since it's so hot in Houston.
use motorcycle oil. The reason being is that your clutch is also run with the same oil as your bike motor and the oil you buy is designed to do that. If you get car oil it will not be good for your clutch.
also 10w-40 is what is recommended in the manual but I run 20w-50 since it's so hot in Houston.
#14
03-25-2009, 03:59 PM
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#16
03-25-2009, 05:08 PM
#17
03-25-2009, 07:12 PM
Senior Member
Read this then make your own EDUCATED decision. http://redirectingat.com/?id=42X146&...nsumables.html
#18
03-25-2009, 08:21 PM
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I use the Shell Rotella T 5W40 synthetic. Blue jug. Look at the back of the bottle of oil. there is what they call a "Donut" on the back, just a round icon with requirments and ratings. On the bottom half of the circle there is a spot that may or may not say "energy conserving" that is what you need to avoid. Some people say that doesnt matter and they dont have any problems. Dont worry about what kind so much as it is under 20w50. Keep it changed regularly and youll be okay.
#20
03-26-2009, 12:47 AM
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Rotella T 5w40 Synthetic is great for bikes. It's a hell of alot better than most motorcycle oils, which tend to not be all they're cracked up to be when it really comes down to it. As for keeping our price down, feh, best way to make sure that shell keeps that oil around for us to be able to use is to help make sure they sell s$%t tons of it, would rather see a slight markup on this pretty damned cheap synthetic than see it dropped from the shell line entirely. 