No Start condition...
#1
No Start condition...
Whats up guys...
Some of you may have read my other thread about testing the fuel system...
If not I will bring you up to speed...
To test the fuel delivery system I hooked up an aux fuel tank. Everything was connected the same exact way it would with the tank on. Pump plugged in, return line, banjo connected properly. Turned the key on, the pump primed, sweet! I know its not that. I rigged up some clear lines so I could watch the fuel.
At this point they key is just on and I first notice the FI light on and its steady, no blinks. So I head to the big book. Read what it means. Faulty ECM, SHORT CIRCUIT IN SERVICE, (CHECK CONNECTOR) What does this mean?
Mind you this never happened to me before. I read that the bike will start most of the time even throwing a MIL code, so I tried it again, and again. Nothing. I could however see the fuel being pumped through the fuel rail and then through the FPR, and back into the aux tank.
So I check the throttle bodies. They look absolutely bone dry. SO now Im confused. If it were an injector problem wouldnt the code for the MIL flash?
I yanked a plug and it too was also bone dry. So Im not sure what the problem is there.
Out of curiousity to see what the FI Light staying on meant to verify the ECM wasnt bad. I did starter fluid down the throttle again and again she fired right up no problems. I thought hell if I got her started and fuel running through the system it should stay on, nope. Again I can see no fuel going to them.
Confused as hell I unhook my aux tank, disconnect the pump, the hoses. Turn the key, No FI light at all now.
Now guys Im just really stumped.
To recap.
Fuel pump is pumping fuel through the fuel rail and through the FPR back into the aux tank. I see no fuel in the throttle bodies. Plugs are not wet with fuel. While trying to start FI light came on and stayed on with no blinks. I did start the bike with starting fluid. After disconnecting everything the FI light went away.
What in the bloody hell is happening here? Clogged or stuck closed injectors??? Wouldnt a MIL code flash for a stuck closed injector?
Please help I really dont have the money to take this thing to the shop. Thanks guys.
Some of you may have read my other thread about testing the fuel system...
If not I will bring you up to speed...
To test the fuel delivery system I hooked up an aux fuel tank. Everything was connected the same exact way it would with the tank on. Pump plugged in, return line, banjo connected properly. Turned the key on, the pump primed, sweet! I know its not that. I rigged up some clear lines so I could watch the fuel.
At this point they key is just on and I first notice the FI light on and its steady, no blinks. So I head to the big book. Read what it means. Faulty ECM, SHORT CIRCUIT IN SERVICE, (CHECK CONNECTOR) What does this mean?
Mind you this never happened to me before. I read that the bike will start most of the time even throwing a MIL code, so I tried it again, and again. Nothing. I could however see the fuel being pumped through the fuel rail and then through the FPR, and back into the aux tank.
So I check the throttle bodies. They look absolutely bone dry. SO now Im confused. If it were an injector problem wouldnt the code for the MIL flash?
I yanked a plug and it too was also bone dry. So Im not sure what the problem is there.
Out of curiousity to see what the FI Light staying on meant to verify the ECM wasnt bad. I did starter fluid down the throttle again and again she fired right up no problems. I thought hell if I got her started and fuel running through the system it should stay on, nope. Again I can see no fuel going to them.
Confused as hell I unhook my aux tank, disconnect the pump, the hoses. Turn the key, No FI light at all now.
Now guys Im just really stumped.
To recap.
Fuel pump is pumping fuel through the fuel rail and through the FPR back into the aux tank. I see no fuel in the throttle bodies. Plugs are not wet with fuel. While trying to start FI light came on and stayed on with no blinks. I did start the bike with starting fluid. After disconnecting everything the FI light went away.
What in the bloody hell is happening here? Clogged or stuck closed injectors??? Wouldnt a MIL code flash for a stuck closed injector?
Please help I really dont have the money to take this thing to the shop. Thanks guys.
Last edited by PossibleOne; 01-14-2014 at 06:09 PM.
#4
Get a noid light from the local auto parts store. They're cheap.
Or if you have a test light, hook the ground to one pin of the connector and probe the other. A bulb in a spare socket works too. One wire to each pin in the connector. Connector disconnected....
It should flash while cranking.
Make sure also that there is 12v constant from the fuse at one of the pins. You have spark, so you probably have power at the injector (same circuit)
Or if you have a test light, hook the ground to one pin of the connector and probe the other. A bulb in a spare socket works too. One wire to each pin in the connector. Connector disconnected....
It should flash while cranking.
Make sure also that there is 12v constant from the fuse at one of the pins. You have spark, so you probably have power at the injector (same circuit)
#5
I pulled off the connector. I only have a test light.
Problem is it is two probes. Those probes are to big to fit down in the holes on the connector. Can you give me a work around for this? Yank the probe to bare wire?
Also could you explain about making sure the 12v? I dont have a multimeter. My batt is full charged, there is no other way to check without a multimeter I take it>
Problem is it is two probes. Those probes are to big to fit down in the holes on the connector. Can you give me a work around for this? Yank the probe to bare wire?
Also could you explain about making sure the 12v? I dont have a multimeter. My batt is full charged, there is no other way to check without a multimeter I take it>
#7
#9
I know man, Im not that dense. lol thats why I asked if the test light is something rated higher than voltage im trying to measure out of the connector. Err, continuity? I dont really know I mean I guess thats why we ask questions, pretty sure thats how you learn as well...I simply asked the question because I wasnt sure that I was doing it correctly because the probes were so big I wasnt able to get them into the connector holes
Anyway, I got a multimeter just a few min. ago. They didnt have the noid light at either of stores I just stopped at.
Any other help by chance then?
Anyway, I got a multimeter just a few min. ago. They didnt have the noid light at either of stores I just stopped at.
Any other help by chance then?
Last edited by PossibleOne; 01-14-2014 at 10:08 PM.
#10
Use a paperclip to get into the connectors.
The multi meter will show you the voltage. Do you know the basics of how to use it?
You can make a light to test pulse. You need a 12v bulb... Any will work. Use one of you headlights. Put a paperclip in each pin on the connector and the other end on the prongs of the bulb. When you crank it, it should flash.... Make sense?
The multi meter will show you the voltage. Do you know the basics of how to use it?
You can make a light to test pulse. You need a 12v bulb... Any will work. Use one of you headlights. Put a paperclip in each pin on the connector and the other end on the prongs of the bulb. When you crank it, it should flash.... Make sense?