Green is ground and blue ie "hot" (solid and with white stripe). Also the headlight is set up from the factory to turn on the left light only for low beam, both for high beam. If you want both lights to work on low beam, you're askin for trouble. First of all there will be too much current draw, and will fry something, most likely the headlight switch (low beam/high beam), or worse yet melt your wires. Both problems have been reported by ppl that have done this mod. You'll also have to change from H7 bulbs to H4 bulbs if you want to retain the high beam. But you can hook up an HID kit that draws less current, avoiding that prob. And the reflective lenses are different so the high beam side will look different than the low beam side, even if you adjust it to point down some. Here's a couple links for the dual headlight mod. https://cbrforum.com/forum/f4i-main-forum-11/hate-left-single-low-beam-light-28634/ , http://cbrworld.net/forums/thread/42405.aspx .

 

Hey man. I cant hook up the stock lights to just use the left for lowbeam, and both for highbeam if i keep the stock bulbs?? by the instructions by Justasquid?

would that still be too much current draw? i have LED rear signals....

 

You should be straighty eighty

 

Stock bulbs in a F3 are two-filament bulbs
Stock bulbs in a F4i' are two single filament bulbs
so you would have to buy two filament bulbs for your mod to work, but...

okay, lets do some math:

H4 bulbs are what, 55 watts?
Power = Voltage x Current
55 W = 12V x ???
??? = 4.58 Amperes

So, when you had the low beams on, you're only drawing 4.58A through your headlight circuit. Lets just say the high beams also produce 55W, so, when you flip on your headlights to HIGH, you draw (4.58 x 2) 9.16A...

Well, is the wiring running between the "fuse and light switch" and "light switch to relay" and "relay to headlights" capable of handling 9.16A or more? not sure... ok... lets see how much HEAT is generated when you push 9.16A through this wire.

lets assume 18awg wire. 18awg wire has a resistance of 6.385 ohms per 1000 feet. I'd guestimate a total of 3 feet (both the positive and negative sides of the bulb x 2 bulbs), so, 3 feet of 18awg wire has equivalent resistance of (3/1000 = x/6.385, x = 0.019)

Power = (Current * Current) * Resistance
Power (wasted, loss, heat) = (9.16 x 9.16) x .019
Power loss = ~2 watts

2 watts continuous will feel a little warm to the touch, but again, this is assuming those wires are 18awg, and 3 feet in length, on a 55w bulb...

imagine if the high beams were 85W... 7.08A in each bulb, 14.16A total, ~4 watts of heat dissapated in the wiring... and thats way above my comfort level with 18awg wire.

your whole thing can be done with one relay, stock dual filament bulbs, (hell, I can even suggest low beams on both sides, and then high beams on both sides), and new wiring.

your "rear LED signals" are irrelevant because they are on a different circuit than your head lights.


John
BTBTBT

 

Guarantee you just went way over his head.

 

yes my head just about exploded.

theres nothing i can do to make the electronics be able to handle both lights? how does the f4i handle both? becuase both lights light up for the f4i when highbeams are on right?

i dont want to do the H4 mod. I have heard alot of bad things about it. How the f4i headlights would just cut out, out of nowhere for many riders and the starter would completely melt and stuff like that.

i just wanna keep it stock but i would like both lights on at once. if that is not possible i guess i can just do the 1 light for low and 1 for high if i really have no other choice...

 

If you splurge on the HID kit ($70 at the cheapest), then you will eliminate the whole current draw problem. And FYI starters dont melt, not even in a fire, solenoids melt, and switches melt, but for a metal starter to melt you'd have to really put the torch to it. You can "fry" a starter, but even then its the solenoid that is fried.

 

BT, WTF did you say, you must be edumacated in that sht. Uh Red is positive, and black is ground, and don't cross the two. lol. Since your a genius and all (j/k), figure out how to make the dual light mod work SAFELY for all of us. PLEASE

 

OK. thanks for the reality check, Aken & daazndood, I would've thought if working on the electronics side, one would atleast understand ohm's law. okay, no biggie.

most simplistic answer to what you want to do. Parts you'll need are:

1 Single Pole Single Throw OR Single Pole Double Throw relay (SPST or SPDT relay)
1 inline ATC fuse holder, with ATC blade style fuse appropriate for the circuit (the current draw of a headlight high beam)
approx 5 feet of 16 or 18awg stranded copper wire
miscellaneous crimp terminals (mainly a ring terminal for your grounds, and slide on female terminals -- large enough to slide onto the tabs on the headlight bulb itself.

Relay will be between 5-20 depending on where you buy
Fuse and Fuse holder, radioshack for $8 probably
Wire... if you don't have any spare wire, goto a place like Best Buy, and ask them for some 'scrap' wire 16-18awg... if they have it, it'll either be free or dirt cheap.
Crimp terminals... if you don't have any, radio shack, pep boys, etc...

Tools needed: wire stripper, a pick or awl (something with a sharp point), a razor blade/knife, electrical tape, and a wire/terminal crimper suitable for the terminal crimps (but for the poor man, i'm sure you could use pliers, though not recommended)

you're going to use the signal from the one headlight to turn the relay on to feed power directly from the battery through a fuse.. to the other headlights' high beam. So, when on LOW beam, just your left will operate. When on HIGH, BOTH sides will operate.

This is provided the F3 is set up such that when on HIGH beam, the low beam shuts off. yes?

John
BT

 

I understood you just fine, but I'm not the one with the headlight issue