so i've made quite a mess, and since i couldn't get the throttle bodies off i removed the radiator.
im using this guide for it, Valve Adjustment for Honda CBR600F4i, Not for the Novice - MotoWiki
is there any advice anyone can give me before i mess something up?
when i change the shims i plan on lining up the T line to the notch, and taking pictures of the cam's and timing gear
and then never touch the crank shaft AT ALL so when i put them back in its exactly the same as it was.
unless there is a cam that is pushing down on one of the buckets, then i imagine its going to be a pain to keep lined up.

and is there any deal behind feeler gauges, i just slide it in and what kind of resistance am i looking for? for example
on an intake i slide in a .18 and i feel some resistance, on a .20 i feel a good amount of resistance but it didnt take any force to slide in. and .23 doesn't go in at all.
also does anyone have some feeler gauges that can measure in between so i can get an exact measurement for the shims?
and where to buy them?

 

The difference is sliding in, or not. So your .20 is correct, in your example.

If you need odd increments, try stacking the blades in your set.
They're flexible enough, so just turn them out together and pinch them together.

Check our forums, either IDoDirt, CJ, GotCBR...somebody
has got a good pictoral/how-to.

Ern

 

Quick search didn't find a pictorial. Did find a video tho

https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-mecha...r600f4-143035/

 

Only worry about accurately measuring the ones that are out of spec. For example: If the spec range is .12 to .20, take a .22 check to see that it doesn't fit and make sure a .10 fits. The one that fits would be in the acceptable range, so who cares what it is. If you find any out, don't be too critical of the exact measurement either. Just get close. The shims you buy are in .05 increments, to get it into a range not to an exact number. For example: If you measure .24, you can only get it to .19. Measuring .22, .23, or .24, the same shim gets you in the range. Make sense?

Loose end of spec is better than tight. Tight valves can burn, and valves get tighter as the seats wear.

 

so only 1 intake is loose within spec, .23, the guide rail B, the one over the timing chain broke, no idea how i didnt slam the cover into it when removing it, maybe tapped it.
and all my exhaust are tight, .25 across the board, any thoughts? change them all?
or if they are within spec does that mean its good for another 15k miles?

 

If they are in spec, leave them alone.

 

IN is 0.20 mm +-.03 (.17 to .23)
EX is 0.28 mm +-.03 (.25 to .31)

It looks like all are good to go.

 

is removing the CCT required to clearing the valves? or can i just use a the stopper tool.. where the hell do i get sheet metal.

 

you DON'T want to remove the CCT to check valve clearances since you have to rotate the crank shaft. if you remove the cct it could jump chain links on you
i picked up some feeler gauges, aka thickness gauges, at a auto store luckly it had the right sizes, it was i think a 26 piece set
i hope that answers your questions, im not quite sure what you were asking

 

ok so when doing the valves. the CCT is not to be touched in any way all through the process correct? even if i needed shims to be replaced?