My 01 F4I is doings something strange. When i Release out of 1st it feels like its going to die, something when its in low RPM in 2,3,4. I have to rev the bike about 3k to get out of first safely but than it feels like im riding my clutch. Also, the timing belt tensioner needs to be replaced i think, it has that weird clicking noise at idle and low RPM. Any write ups on changing the tensioner? and any idea about the LOW RPM problem?

 

There isn't a timing belt on your bike, I think you're talking about the cam chain tensioner lifter. Mine is making noise and I have one on order from the dealer...hopefully it'll be here by Thursday. I found a couple good write-ups when I searched on Yahoo for "F4i CCTL" or something, but I couldn't find it when I just searched for it again. [>:] I also have a manual in PDF format, which I'll probably be making good use of. In fact I could probably take some pictures of the installation and make my own write up to post!

 

Found this on another forum...just doesn't have any pictures with it!

[quote]I don't have pictures, but I'm pretty sure I can explain how everything comes apart.

The first pieces to remove are the right side fairing, and both ram air covers. When taking the ram air covers off, be very careful not to let the threaded pieces (little rubber grommets with metal threads that the rear ram air screw attatches to) fall out of the tank, they are a pain to find. I took a sheet of paper and labeled every screw, bolt, and piece-made it much easier to put the bike back together.

Next I took all the bolts and clips out of the tail and slid it back about 2 inches to allow room for the gas tank. Next remove the two top bolts from the gas tank (near the triple tree). Again be very careful because there are spacers (they look like washers with hollow tubes attatched to them) that go under these bolts that are very easy to lose. I also removed the rear bolts on the gas tank to allow it to hing up higher than normal.

Next, cut a piece of wood, about 1 inch by 1 inch by 30 centimeters (the service manual says 25cm, but by removing the rear bolts you can hing the tank up higher). Place the wood support on the front of the tank, resting to bottom where the bolt holes are, and the top on the front of the tank. It will look like a clamshell (this is where moving the tail back comes into play-otherwise you would be bending the fiberglass where it meets the tank).

The next thing to come off is the air filter box. Remove the top of the box and unhook the air sensor. Remove the air filter element and then unscrew the six screws that attatch the box to the throttle body. Unhook the ram air channels from the intakes. You will then have to remove the two large, and two small hoses that attatch to the air filter box. Then unscrew the sensor and plug from left side of the filter box. You should now be able to remover the filter box from the bike and leave yourself a lot more room.

The final thing to remove is the injectors. You will see a brass colored pipe attatched to the fuel lines from the tank. This is the hard plumbing for the injectors. There are three 8mm bolts that attatch this to the throttle body. Remove these bolts. Now for the tricky part-you need to life the brass tube and everything attatched to it out of the engine. The four injectors should slide right out-but make sure the injectors (they are black plastic) don't come off the brass pipe and fittings-gas will spill everywhere. Also make sure the injector gaskets don't fall out-they are very important. Make sure every injector has a gasket on it or sitting in the injector hole before you reinstall the brass tube.

Now slide the tube and injectors to the left side of the bike-this will allow enough room to reach your hand in and get your hex wrench on the CCTL. Remove both bolts and the CCTL. This part will take LOTS of patience. I used a 5mm ratchet attatchment with an elbow on a 1/2 inch drive for the top bolt, and a 5mm hex wrench for the bottom bolt.

Remove the end bolt and save it for the new CCTL. Now make sure the new CCTL is fully retracted-you can either use a small screwdriver or the locking tool included to retract the CCTL (just insert the screwdriver into the hole and turn it clockwise-the CCTL arm will retract). Insert the locking tool to hold the CCTL arm in place. Install the CCTL with a new gasket (you just spent a couple hours digging into the bike-your not going to spend the $1.50 for a new one?). I used the same tools for installation. Once you have the hex bolts firmly tightened, remove the stopper tool and the cctl arm will extend. Install the end bolt with a NEW washer and put everything back together.

The tutorial for the F4 is very useful as you can see pictures. The only difference is that for the F4i you are going to want to remove the air box and injectors to make reaching the CCTL easier. This is NOT a difficult pr

 

mine makes that same noise and so does my buddies Identical F4i. Im pretty sure they do that all the time straight from the factory. Ive had mine for about 3 years now and its never caused any trouble.

Daniel Thompson

 

Other than the noise.....will not changing the CCTL do damage to the bike???

 

no, it's still applying sufficient tension on the cam chain.
as far as that tutorial...WTH? i swapped mine out and didn't have to remove the air box, fuel rails, etc...
if you remove the tank, it's all there, easily accessible...

your problem is independent of the cctl.
what's your bike idle at? should be around 1200 to 1500 RPM.
you may also have a rich condition. tell us more!

 

Haha, I just got my new CCTL today and I was going to replace it this weekend...that tutorial does look like it has a few extra steps in it.

 

check that ur idling at 1400rpm

 

So replacing the CCTL just gets rid of the vibration/noise??

Or is there some other benefit if you change it out to a new one??

I'm just trying to figure out why to do it. Did they update the part from when the bike was originally released or something?

 

yea from J22 to J23, but still makes the sound after awhile.
i would just change it out if you ever need to get in there. mine has never been as annoying as many other folks though, but still does make that sound.
it's not as bad to do as people make it out to be. so just drop one in and change it whenever you need to change your fuel filter again...like 10K or so.