Intermittent starter f4i
hi all, my first post, I have searched the forum for the answer and have not gotten the answer yet.

I put my bike away for the winter last year and when I returned to it, the bike would not start, relay clicks but no crank. Upon doing a few tests, battery was producing almost 13v. Cleaned all terminals still no luck, i change battery to a lithium one, still no luck. Decided to remove the starter motor (painful job) and found everytime I applied a current to it, it span up fine. So I put it back on and it all worked for a few days.
I come back from a ride yesterday and went to start it again to go back out and nothing but a click. After a few tries it started. Then low and behold it stopped working again.
I am going to check the wiring by the front headlight which I've read about on here in the next few days when I get chance but after that, I'm thinking change the relay (even though I think its fine) or check the starter cluster but that's all seems fine, (headlight dims when you press button).
I've done the usual stuff like pull clutch in, lift stand, make sure its not in gear...
any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Welcome to the forum, sounds like it might be a problem with the kill switch, they are prone to failure with the solder on the contacts failing.
Lets see some pictures of the bike.

 

Do following measurements:

1. battery power with everything OFF, volts = ???

2. battery power with key ON, stop-switch = RUN, volts = ???

3. battery power with start-button pressed, volts = ???

 

Thank you both for the reply, Danny onyx I will get this info, also thank you I will check inside the kill switch cluster but seems weird how that could be the problem when fuel primes every time just won't crank.

 

Picture of me last year going around windy corner at the TT

 

Woohoo!!! What fun!! Wish we had events like that here!

 

Yes Danny it is amazing! 150+mph on the little 600 is somewhat exhilaratingly stupid lol but i dont like the 1000cc boys beating me.
Some of the UK lads are coming to America this year Peter Hickman and Richard Cooper sponsored by FHO to race in the daytona 200 so that will be good. Both very good riders.

 

Hi Danny, sorry for the delay I've been working q2h shifts.
[size=17px]Battery off - 13.4v [/size]
[size=17px]Battery on - 12.8[/size]
[size=17px]Pressed Start button pressed, started to turn over then volts went down and down to 10.8 and relay started to click.

Battery is only 3 weeks old [/size]

 

Age is no indicator, only measured voltages matter. Shows you have dead battery. It’s dropping too much voltage when loaded to even keep solenoid-coil engaged, thus clicking.

As test, jumpstart bike from known good auto battery that can start car just fine. Leave car OFF, wiggle jumper cable clamps after installed to get good bite and conductivity. Repeat same 3 measurements with auto battery attached.

Also review these related threads. Make note of test and measured numbers.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=335199 - 13.6v
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=74813
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=61661 - charging fixed
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=113945
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=368961
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/thre...9/#post-634109
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/thre...battery.122626 - 14.21v
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/thre...8/#post-485100
https://www.mvagusta.net/threads/bik...oltag e.41789/

 

One other thing is there is continuity through the solinoid even when the starter button is not pressed. It clicks well to suggest it's working but there is permanent continuity so I've just ordered 1 of them