Installing new brake lines
#1
Installing new brake lines
I ordered a set of HEL stainless steel brakes lines. I got the back one already so im just waiting for the fronts to come in. The install seems pretty straight forward but I was just wondering if anyone had any tips to make this job easier? Also ive never bled air out of the lines before either so whats the best way to do that? Does anyone have like a step by step? I searched and found one and it stated to empty both masters dry but I always thought to never let a master dry up or you'll never get all the air out? Whats the torque specs? As always any help is very much appreciated Thanks!
#2
#3
I recently put SS lines on my F4i.
1. Loosen the bleeder screws, open the reservoir, and pump away to totally bleed out the fluid.
2. Disconnect the rubber lines (and the distribution block)
3. Using the double-banjo bolt, attach SS lines at the reservoir and at the calipers, using single banjo bolts. Don't forget to use NEW crush washers.
4. Pour new brake fluid in the reservoir. Close the bleeder nipple on the right caliper (from rider's point of view). Attach a brake bleeder to the left and pump away until bubbles disappear. Closely monitor the fluid level in the reservoir and don't let that go dry. When no bubbles come out, close nipple.
5. Repeat on the other side. Again, don't let the master reservoir go dry.
6. Repeat on the rear brake. Again, don't let the master reservoir go dry.
"Never let a master go dry" is only during bleeding. Replacing the fluid will require you to empty out the existing fluid. At less than $10 a can, why not put in fresh fluid while you're putting in brand new lines? ;0)
Hope that helps. This is the bleeder I used. $7.99 at my local Autozone.
http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25036-Blee.../dp/B000CMDP44
1. Loosen the bleeder screws, open the reservoir, and pump away to totally bleed out the fluid.
2. Disconnect the rubber lines (and the distribution block)
3. Using the double-banjo bolt, attach SS lines at the reservoir and at the calipers, using single banjo bolts. Don't forget to use NEW crush washers.
4. Pour new brake fluid in the reservoir. Close the bleeder nipple on the right caliper (from rider's point of view). Attach a brake bleeder to the left and pump away until bubbles disappear. Closely monitor the fluid level in the reservoir and don't let that go dry. When no bubbles come out, close nipple.
5. Repeat on the other side. Again, don't let the master reservoir go dry.
6. Repeat on the rear brake. Again, don't let the master reservoir go dry.
"Never let a master go dry" is only during bleeding. Replacing the fluid will require you to empty out the existing fluid. At less than $10 a can, why not put in fresh fluid while you're putting in brand new lines? ;0)
Hope that helps. This is the bleeder I used. $7.99 at my local Autozone.
http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25036-Blee.../dp/B000CMDP44
#4
I recently put SS lines on my F4i.
1. Loosen the bleeder screws, open the reservoir, and pump away to totally bleed out the fluid.
2. Disconnect the rubber lines (and the distribution block)
3. Using the double-banjo bolt, attach SS lines at the reservoir and at the calipers, using single banjo bolts. Don't forget to use NEW crush washers.
4. Pour new brake fluid in the reservoir. Close the bleeder nipple on the right caliper (from rider's point of view). Attach a brake bleeder to the left and pump away until bubbles disappear. Closely monitor the fluid level in the reservoir and don't let that go dry. When no bubbles come out, close nipple.
5. Repeat on the other side. Again, don't let the master reservoir go dry.
6. Repeat on the rear brake. Again, don't let the master reservoir go dry.
"Never let a master go dry" is only during bleeding. Replacing the fluid will require you to empty out the existing fluid. At less than $10 a can, why not put in fresh fluid while you're putting in brand new lines? ;0)
Hope that helps. This is the bleeder I used. $7.99 at my local Autozone.
http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25036-Blee.../dp/B000CMDP44
1. Loosen the bleeder screws, open the reservoir, and pump away to totally bleed out the fluid.
2. Disconnect the rubber lines (and the distribution block)
3. Using the double-banjo bolt, attach SS lines at the reservoir and at the calipers, using single banjo bolts. Don't forget to use NEW crush washers.
4. Pour new brake fluid in the reservoir. Close the bleeder nipple on the right caliper (from rider's point of view). Attach a brake bleeder to the left and pump away until bubbles disappear. Closely monitor the fluid level in the reservoir and don't let that go dry. When no bubbles come out, close nipple.
5. Repeat on the other side. Again, don't let the master reservoir go dry.
6. Repeat on the rear brake. Again, don't let the master reservoir go dry.
"Never let a master go dry" is only during bleeding. Replacing the fluid will require you to empty out the existing fluid. At less than $10 a can, why not put in fresh fluid while you're putting in brand new lines? ;0)
Hope that helps. This is the bleeder I used. $7.99 at my local Autozone.
http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25036-Blee.../dp/B000CMDP44
#5
There is actually a way the is just as easy, and cost even less. All you need is a piece of clear aqua tubing, big enough to fit over the bleeder nipple. With the old fluid drained out, begin to pour the new fluid in the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the new fluid. Now, starting with the front brakes. SLOWLY pull the front brake, once you start pulling the brake, lossen the bleeder screw so fluid comes out, but before you completely squeeze the brake lever all the way down, tighten the bleeder screw. Repeat this process 10-15 times for each the front and the back brakes. Make sure to never let the reservoir dry either, or else this whole process is useless and will have to be repeated.
Please correct me if im wrong, but iv'e done this many of times. btw, first post!
Please correct me if im wrong, but iv'e done this many of times. btw, first post!
#7
Thanks for all the help guys! So its ok to empty the master completly out of old fluid when I change the lines? Then I would fill the master up with new fluid and pull the new fluid in the lines using the bleeder screws and keep filling the master correct? And is there a certain torque spec for the banjo bolts on the new lines or just hand tight? Also I bought one of those hand pump bleeders so when using this do I still need to pump the brake or does the vac from the hand pump stuck out all the air? Thanks again!
Last edited by MuscleswitCBR; 01-03-2011 at 09:30 PM.
#8
Yes. It is better to empty the master reservoir when you change lines (otherwise, you'll have brake fluid coming out of the reservoir).
As for nrm, yes that method is free. Problem is you gotta squeeze, and loosen the bleeder many many times. It's fine if you have the time and someone is helping you. Try manually bleeding the left caliper that way when the brake lever is on the right side of the handlebars.
Hand pump bleeder - you won't even touch the brake handle. Connect the tube, fill the master, make sure the caliper bleeder screw is loose, and pump away until no bubbles come out. DO NOT LET THE MASTER GO DRY.
As for nrm, yes that method is free. Problem is you gotta squeeze, and loosen the bleeder many many times. It's fine if you have the time and someone is helping you. Try manually bleeding the left caliper that way when the brake lever is on the right side of the handlebars.
Hand pump bleeder - you won't even touch the brake handle. Connect the tube, fill the master, make sure the caliper bleeder screw is loose, and pump away until no bubbles come out. DO NOT LET THE MASTER GO DRY.
#9
#10
I recently put SS lines on my F4i.
1. Loosen the bleeder screws, open the reservoir, and pump away to totally bleed out the fluid.
2. Disconnect the rubber lines (and the distribution block)
3. Using the double-banjo bolt, attach SS lines at the reservoir and at the calipers, using single banjo bolts. Don't forget to use NEW crush washers.
4. Pour new brake fluid in the reservoir. Close the bleeder nipple on the right caliper (from rider's point of view). Attach a brake bleeder to the left and pump away until bubbles disappear. Closely monitor the fluid level in the reservoir and don't let that go dry. When no bubbles come out, close nipple.
5. Repeat on the other side. Again, don't let the master reservoir go dry.
6. Repeat on the rear brake. Again, don't let the master reservoir go dry.
"Never let a master go dry" is only during bleeding. Replacing the fluid will require you to empty out the existing fluid. At less than $10 a can, why not put in fresh fluid while you're putting in brand new lines? ;0)
Hope that helps. This is the bleeder I used. $7.99 at my local Autozone.
http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25036-Blee.../dp/B000CMDP44
1. Loosen the bleeder screws, open the reservoir, and pump away to totally bleed out the fluid.
2. Disconnect the rubber lines (and the distribution block)
3. Using the double-banjo bolt, attach SS lines at the reservoir and at the calipers, using single banjo bolts. Don't forget to use NEW crush washers.
4. Pour new brake fluid in the reservoir. Close the bleeder nipple on the right caliper (from rider's point of view). Attach a brake bleeder to the left and pump away until bubbles disappear. Closely monitor the fluid level in the reservoir and don't let that go dry. When no bubbles come out, close nipple.
5. Repeat on the other side. Again, don't let the master reservoir go dry.
6. Repeat on the rear brake. Again, don't let the master reservoir go dry.
"Never let a master go dry" is only during bleeding. Replacing the fluid will require you to empty out the existing fluid. At less than $10 a can, why not put in fresh fluid while you're putting in brand new lines? ;0)
Hope that helps. This is the bleeder I used. $7.99 at my local Autozone.
http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25036-Blee.../dp/B000CMDP44