I bought a 2001 f4i 600 last year. the bike was wrecked, low speed, into a curb. broke the swing arm, warped rim, and a ton of cosmetic damage. the bike sat outside for 2 years, a year into it i covered it with a tarp, i new it would become mine. i paid $400.00. this is my first bike, i have spent the last year repairing everything, repaired all plastics, ripped the paint from frame, ripped paint off new swing arm, stator cover, the nine and have polished the whole bike allby hand, repaired, or replaced anything damaged, and added many new, just about ready for paint, but i am chasing anelectrical problem. i have put my heart and soul (and wallet) into this bike over the year, and know it inside and out. i refuse to paint it until i can get it to turn over. i am desperate, another disappointing day.

the problem:
i turn the key everything turns on, gauges work, horn works, lights all work, I'm getting power there. i turn the "run switch" to therun position, press the starter switch, with the clutch in, in neutral,...the headlight dims and nothing.
*i read the starter solenoid clicks. does the starter solenoid click when you turn the key?
*how do you test a starter solenoid/relay?
i can turn the bike over by bypassing the solenoid/relay with pliers connecting the starter cable to the battery cable

-my fuel pump doesn't turn on, but works with direct power

things i have replaced
1 - new battery
2 - new bank angle switch
3- new kickstand switch
4 - new rear harness (rashed from the spill)
5 - new rear frame starter relays
6 -USED starter solenoid for a 98 f3 from ebay, before i bought it i cross referenced part numbers
*could i have gotten a junk solenoid/relay?

I have tested where I am getting power, what switches work, i have invested so much time, i am very detailed and i am aiming for showroom quality

i started with the solenoid, and have gone through everything, i am back to square 1, that solenoid, that used part i bought....

thanks to anyone who can help

i attatched of pic of all my hard work

 

When you turn the key with the run switch in off position, just the lights turn on and gauges do their dance number...
When you turn the run switch to run, you should hear the fuel pump prime... a 1 sec high pitched whine.
pressing the ignition switch should click the starter solenoid at the same time that your headlight goes out, and the motor should turn over.

You've replaced 1,2,3 which are the prime suspects. If you weren't pulling the clutch in I'd have suggested the neutral sensor / clutch sensor. But if you pull the clutch in when in neutral, then BOTH sensors will have to be bad for the bike to not start, which is less likely.

Ideally, if you apply 12V to the control terminals of the starter relay then you should get a low resistance (test with multimeter!) at the output terminals (and it should click). This low resistance connects the battery to the starter motor.
Essentially what it's doing is taking a weak start 'signal' from the computer and converting it into a strong connection (low resistance) for the starter motor... so make sure the wiring is ok and the start signal is coming in, and then make sure the solenoid is responding.
Since it's turning over the starting motor is fine...

If your fuel pump doesn't prime you should debug that first.

keep posting

 

even when the run switch is in the off position if i hit the starter switch the lights dim, is that suppose to happen?

thanks for your help and advice.........i need it

i'll get out there tomorrow with a tester too

 

The fuel pump is controlled by the pink wire in the ignition socket. There is a diode that sends this pink wire 9 volts when the key is switched to on. If the diode in the bottom of the ignition assy is blown, it will never start. It is Hondas version of an anti theft device. If anyone tries to hot wire the ignition at the front connector it automatically blows this diode to prevent the fuel pump from running. This is a $cheap diode to replace by its self. The lower base of the ignition is said to run about 50. bucks with the diode already installed. Contact Honda about it.
About the lights... It sounds like the connector from the ignition switch has a short in it. There should be 4 wires in it. Red (constant 12v), red/blk (assy wire to fuse box), blue, (headlight), and the pink (strait to the ecm, pin #19. this goes to 9v when the key is turned to run). Hope this helps some.

 

you guys are very helpfull, ive posted before and just went in circles, i cant thank you enough. ill keep you posted

 

FINALLY! i cant believe it turns over. thanks for your help, you gave me direction and i found the problem. let this be a lesson for all. i have been through this bike completely more then once. there are two black wires withwhite dashes, they come out of the switches as two wires, when they get to the plug at the other end they are one. they were pinched. in frustration, i cut the plastic from the harness, saw a pinch, cut it, spliced it, turned her over. best day i have had in a long time.now my brake light works properly too.won't start, but i can move forward. thanks again.

 

http://downloads.hondatech.info/Moto...e%20Manual.pdf

Here is the complete manual for your bike. It will come in handy many times...

 

More Honda manuals can be found here

http://hondatech.info/downloads/Moto/

 

if your bikes trying to turn over but doesn't start. do you hear your fuel pump prime? because it could be your tip sensor? since you bike has been layed down you might need to hot wire your tip sensor or just replace the fuse. thats what was wrong with mine. and it started right up after that. hope that helps.

 

hey, did you make sure you mounted the bank angle sensor correctly. If mounted upside down it will kill power to fuel pump! But congrates on finding the first problem