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How To: Replace your Fuel Pressure Regulator

  #11  
Old 11-16-2008, 09:49 PM
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Default RE: How To: Replace your Fuel Pressure Regulator

I've gotten as far as 171 without the bars lighting up.
Wow you must be an Old Chinese lady then
 
  #12  
Old 11-17-2008, 06:52 AM
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Default RE: How To: Replace your Fuel Pressure Regulator

Great post, should be a sticky. FLYOU, it would be great if you also mentioned how to test for FPR issues.
 
  #13  
Old 11-17-2008, 08:38 PM
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Default RE: How To: Replace your Fuel Pressure Regulator

This is what I need to do because my bike has been smelling like gas really bad and it doesnt pull like its supposed to. I had a question how much would they charge to install this for me in a shop?
 
  #14  
Old 11-17-2008, 09:47 PM
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Default RE: How To: Replace your Fuel Pressure Regulator

ORIGINAL: eljrc16

This is what I need to do because my bike has been smelling like gas really bad and it doesnt pull like its supposed to. I had a question how much would they charge to install this for me in a shop?
Depends. I'm thinking somewhere between 200-350 bucks. It takes about an hour to complete if you don't drain your tank, plus labor, parts, etc. Not really sure though. There's been a few people who have done it at the dealership if anyone wants to come forward.

ORIGIONAL: kukku

Great post, should be a sticky. FLYOU, it would be great if you also mentioned how to test for FPR issues.
There is a way to check the FPR for failure, but it's a bit tricky.

To check the fuel pressure, First you have to disconnect and plug the vacuum hose going to the FPR. Next you have to attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel tank service bolt and check for 50PSI at 1300RPMonce you start the engine. If you get a higher reading, your FPR could be the culprit. I left a few steps out, but you get the idea.

There's another test with the fuel flow you can perform as well. I'm not going to write the whole thing out, but it involves measuring the amount of fuel coming from the fuel return hose. You basically disconnect it, turn the ignition on, and measure 6.4 ounces of fuel over a 10 second period that spills out.

The specifics of testing the fuel pressure and fuel flow are on page 5-50 thru 5-52 of the shop manual.

I have heard a lot about guys getting the 'MAP Sensor' Error (2 Flashes on your Programmed Fuel Injection) when the FPR fails. That's what was happening to me when my FPR was starting to go (along with the rough idle and poor gas mileage and all the other symptoms listed). Before we go any further, let's introduce the MAP sensor:

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Part Number 37830-MCF-003: Roughly $125 bucks for this thing that is connected to the left side of your air cleaner.

The MAP sensor is a component of your fuel/air mixture control. It fine-tunes the process of how much fuel to inject into the cylinders. This fine-tuning is mainly due to altitude changes. At low altitudes near sea level, your bike runs a lot more rich than it does in the Rockies.

The stoichiometric air/fuel mixture is approximately 14.7 times the mass of air to fuel. At higher altitudes, there's less air, therefore, less fuel required for a perfect burn. If an engine is normally aspirated (no turbo or supercharger) at high altitudes, the bike won't perform as well as it will at sea level. You will also get better gas mileage at higher altitudes since you won't require as much fuel. This is why airplanes fly at high altitudes. I used to fly a Leer 25. The engines on that airplane burned as much fuel at 43,000 feet going 400 MPH than they would sitting on the ground idling. This is why your MAP sensor exists: To keep that constant 14.7 to 1 Ratio regardlessof whataltitude you are at.

When the FPR fails and the mixture becomes rich, the bike thinks that the MAP sensor is to blame. Thismay be a false reading (or might not be). If you are getting this error, I would start checking the MAP sensor first rather than assuming the FPR is to blame.A faulty map sensor could make your bike too run rich or too lean, but I it probably wouldn't be as extreme as getting as little as 15-20MPG or so. If it is that extreme, then I would start checking the FPR first.
 
  #15  
Old 11-17-2008, 10:13 PM
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Default RE: How To: Replace your Fuel Pressure Regulator

If your not mechanically inclined on working on bikes, it might be better for you to take it to a shop. Nothings worse than trying to fix something and making it worse than when you started. Nobody likes to fix someones f*ck up.
 
  #16  
Old 11-18-2008, 02:12 AM
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Default RE: How To: Replace your Fuel Pressure Regulator

Brilliant, now the post is complete thanks to you!
 
  #17  
Old 11-18-2008, 08:51 AM
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Default RE: How To: Replace your Fuel Pressure Regulator

helluva post

this needs stickied
 
  #18  
Old 11-18-2008, 11:53 AM
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Default RE: How To: Replace your Fuel Pressure Regulator

For a quicker initial startup, you can "prime" the fuel system by letting the fuel pump cycle a few times before you hit the starter. In other words, turn the key on, wait for the pump to turn off, key off, key on, wait for the pump the turn off......

This will purge any air out of the fuel rail and injectors and allow the engine to light right off...

FYI.

-Will
 
  #19  
Old 11-19-2008, 06:44 PM
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Default Looks easy to do

Me and my dad are gonna try and do it he looked at it and said he can do it it seems easy he already knew that once disconnecting the hose that gas is going to drain out so he said that it
has to be done fast and with no mess with the bike totally cold. So I called my nearest motorcycle dealer and they have the part for $80 more than u guys paid.
 
  #20  
Old 11-19-2008, 08:05 PM
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Default RE: Looks easy to do

Should of ordered it online than to get it at the stealership for that much more.
 

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