I dont have a manual from what i see online it says 3.3 quarts. Is that correct?? I put about 3.5 quarts in and the oil is line is still on the bottom hatch mark on the oil window. Whats the deal???

Oh yeah i used Mobile 1 fully synthetic 10w40

 

3.5 quarts exactly with OEM filter. You are checking the level after starting it up and letting it run for 10 secs or so and shutting it off, and with the bike sitting on both wheels (not on rear stand), and sitting upright and balanced (not on kickstand), right?? Should be right in the middle between the 2 lines to the top line, kinda depends on the angle of the bike as it doesn't take much to change it.

If you're using an aftermarket filter like a Purolator, it's a little bit longer and thus takes slightly more oil. For that you just gotta add a little bit and recheck it. I use OEM filters and just go by the marks on the bottle... exactly 3.5 quarts and it's dead on every time

 

i've got an '01 and i put a full 4 quarts in but i use Motul 5w40 full synthetic and you burn a little because it gets past the oil rings easier. if you changed your filter you need to put more in. make sure the bike is completely straight up and down too. it's hard to judge on your own so have a friend help.

oh yea. 3.3 LITERS converts to ~3.5 quarts.

 

Yeah i was by myself so i dont really know whats it at balanced. I used a Fram filter i got at advanced auto. I will use honda filters next time but i needed it done tonight and the local place is moving until wednesday.

Also the filter i used didnt have a nut on the top to tighten it, so i had to tighten it by hand. Is that ok or do i need to torque it.

 

Ewww... Fram, they suck[:@]

I always torque my filter just cuz I'm **** like that, but I have a filter socket so it makes it easy. If all you have is your hands, then just get it as tight as you can with your hands and double check it while and after running it to make sure it doesn't leak. You did put oil on the o-ring, right?

 

Of course this isnt my first oil change ever! Fram is all i had at my immediate access. So like i said ill get a honda one another time!

I rode it for about 10 minutes and no leaks so we should be fine.

 

Relax relax... just making sure

I do this stuff for a living and you wouldn't believe some of the customers I get who don't even know how to check their oil, much less change it. I also have people that fill their diesel trucks up with gasoline, people that fill their power steering resovour with water, people that complain about features on their vehicle not working for a feature it didn't have and never did, people that step on the gas when they meant to step on the brake and wonder why the car took off, people that close all their a/c vents and wonder why there's no airflow... I could go on and on. Like I said, just double checking to make sure, cuz from my experience I see common sense isn't always so common after all

 

I do know what ya mean! Didnt mean to come across like that. Does a honda oil filter really make that much of a difference. How much $

 

Well it doesn't necessarily have to be a Honda filter... there's alot of real good filters out there. But IMHO, just anything but Fram. I'd rather use a dirty sock and a rubber glove over a fram filter. Of course I'm exaggerating a bit, a fram will still work, just kinda at the bottom of the oil filter totem pole. I've cut open quite a few oil filters and the frams just seem like junk. As I see it, cardboard has no place inside an oil filter[:@] Plus the crappy bypass valves stick and starve the engine of oil for bit on cold startups. Other than OEM, I usually stick with Purolator, K&N, Wix, ect.

The OEM usually run me about $10, which is about the same as a K&N. The Purolator is a real good one too... if I remember right the one for a Mazda Miata fits our bikes (but double check to make sure)

 

Hey I just realized you're in Naples... we should meet up sometime, not too far away I'm straight across Alligator Alley