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Hot Shorty?

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  #21  
Old 09-12-2007, 02:29 PM
nomorespecs's Avatar
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Default RE: Hot Shorty?

Good eye. I had a heck of a time getting the large opening covered the way I wanted, so I skipped the lower openings. Then I saw a pic of the MV F4 (attached), and noticed it had mesh up top, but not at the bottom. So then I thought I'd just leave it and choose to believe I'd done it just like on the F4.

[IMG]local://upfiles/20172/8A7BE20A8C20433C92D83577EF8D0F28.jpg[/IMG]
 
  #22  
Old 09-12-2007, 02:39 PM
ffingers's Avatar
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Default RE: Hot Shorty?

curious...how many LEDs did you use...i just got my streetglow kit in and it came with two 6" strips, two 9" strips, and 4 6-LED pods....it's hard for me to tell how bright it will glow as i was trying to look at them in a very well lit garage (at a condo)....ugh....gonna have to wait until i can get into my buddy's dark garage...

anyways...what did you use for LEDs and also, did you notice a decrease in light with the mesh or was it pretty much the same....nice bike btw...
 
  #23  
Old 09-12-2007, 02:52 PM
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Default RE: Hot Shorty?

Thanks. I was also concerned about how much the mesh would block the light, but I think it actually helps scatter the light more. The metal reflects it to a certain degree. I think the key is making sure the mesh is shiny, not dull metallic, and has as large a hole pattern as you can find.

I used all but one light that came in the "Standard" SWINT LED Light kit (so 11, I think). It took a while to figure out which types of lights to place in certain spots. What I did was use scotch tape to position each light and wire them loosley to the power source to test how it looked (in a dark garage, thankfully). I also wired them into a under seat power block that only becomes live once the key is turned, so no one could turn the lights on and kill my battery. The switch is placed on my left as I sit on the bike, just barely sticking out from the rear cowl where it meets the rear subframe.

The most frustrating part was actually none of the above. Maybe it is just the SWINT lights, but just a little pulling on the connected wires would break the connection, killing the light. I ended up having to direct connect some of the wires together because the connectors were really weak plastic.

Standard Kit IncludesTwelve Ultra High
Intesity LED Lights with
double-sided tape.(Which
is Five-Swint Pods, Five
Swint Bars with 5 LED
lights each, and two
swint Mini Pods with four
LEDS each.) 1 Swint Spine
pre-wired harness(with
two battery connections,
switch, fuse, and five
light connection), 3
Y-Connectors (One to
Two), 2 W-Connectors (One
to Three), 8 Line
Extensions (2-36 Inch,
2-18 Inch, 2-12 Inch, 2-6
Inch), 20 Zip ties and
easy to follow
instructions.
 
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