Help...keep blowing fuse
#1
11-29-2006, 04:12 PM
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Help...keep blowing fuse
Ok so here is the deal. I keep blowing the "ind, meter, tail, illum" fuse. I don't really know where to start. I'm pretty sure there are no exposed wires, but im not sure what all goes through this fuse. I blew one yesterday and then another today. The bike runs fine, but my tail isn't illuminated (brake light still comes on though), and none of the guages work. Does anyone know how i should approach this?
p.s. does anyone know if the fan comes on and if the rev limiter works when this fuse is blown?
Thanks
p.s. does anyone know if the fan comes on and if the rev limiter works when this fuse is blown?
Thanks
#2
11-29-2006, 04:19 PM
#4
11-29-2006, 04:43 PM
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RE: Help...keep blowing fuse
I would get one for sure. The are only like $7. Then check all the wires by your tail to make sure everything is getting power, and if not, you no there is a problem and you will have to trace it backwards. Have you dropped the bike or anything lately? Are all the major relays fine? Anything happen to your bike in the past few days (out in the rain, dropping, etc.). Also, you can try judt disconnecting the plug harneses that go to the tail light and turns, replacing the fuse and then pluging the harnesses back. Sometimes that works because they just need to be "reset" sort of speak.
#5
11-29-2006, 05:02 PM
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RE: Help...keep blowing fuse
No drops, but it was out in the rain yesterday. I haven't had a problem with it in the rain before though. I did have my fairings off for awhile and blew a different fuse (the horn) be cause the wires weren't taped off. I'll pick up a voltmeter tonight and try testing everything. Also unplugging/pluging the harness. Thanks for the help, im sure ill be on later with more questions.
#6
11-29-2006, 08:39 PM
RE: Help...keep blowing fuse
A fuse blows when something's drawing too much power... e.g. a 10A fuse would blow when something tries to draw >10A of current. Thus it protects the battery and alternator from rogue circuits.
This is usually a characteristic of a short circuit, or where something forms a direct heavy path between the positive and negative wires that run to it.
e.g. diodes in a rectifier can fail by shorting out, rain can help form a short through grease/grime between two open wires/in the plug-sockets... or simply un-taped wires can touch each other and short out. So you need to find which part that the fuse supplies is shorting out.
If you can identify the plugs that go to each of the systems, e.g. tail light or indicators, you can find which line is shorting in the following way:
Technically: Short = Low Resistance
1>With a voltmeter, set it to measure resistance (marked on the meter by a greek letter for 'W', looks like an upside down fishbowl). Set it to 20 or a setting larger than 20 (note: 20k = 20,000).
2>Remove the errant Fuse, and check on the downstream contact of the fuse (upstream would be going to battery, do NOT connect to this contact when in 'resistance' setting or your volmeter might blow), Check the resistance between the downstream contact of the fuse and the ground lead of battery.
3> For the fuse to blow, this resistance should be lower than (12/FuseRating). If you get a higher resistance, something is wrong with the technique or the problem is intermittent. Dont continue with this method then
Otherwise:
4>Remove each plug that goes out from the fuse in sequence, to tail, front guages etc. and check the resistance after each removal.
5>Whenever the resistance jumps up, the last plug you removed should be the cause of the fault. To make sure, check the resistance between the two terminals of the removed plug. This should be low again. Then check the entire wire length that goes from the plug.
6>If you remove all the plugs that go out from the fuse, and the resistance is still low, either a) there's still some wire that goes out from the fuse that you couldnt disconnect and is the problem or b) the problem is with the fuse holder itself.
This is usually a characteristic of a short circuit, or where something forms a direct heavy path between the positive and negative wires that run to it.
e.g. diodes in a rectifier can fail by shorting out, rain can help form a short through grease/grime between two open wires/in the plug-sockets... or simply un-taped wires can touch each other and short out. So you need to find which part that the fuse supplies is shorting out.
If you can identify the plugs that go to each of the systems, e.g. tail light or indicators, you can find which line is shorting in the following way:
Technically: Short = Low Resistance
1>With a voltmeter, set it to measure resistance (marked on the meter by a greek letter for 'W', looks like an upside down fishbowl). Set it to 20 or a setting larger than 20 (note: 20k = 20,000).
2>Remove the errant Fuse, and check on the downstream contact of the fuse (upstream would be going to battery, do NOT connect to this contact when in 'resistance' setting or your volmeter might blow), Check the resistance between the downstream contact of the fuse and the ground lead of battery.
3> For the fuse to blow, this resistance should be lower than (12/FuseRating). If you get a higher resistance, something is wrong with the technique or the problem is intermittent. Dont continue with this method then
Otherwise:
4>Remove each plug that goes out from the fuse in sequence, to tail, front guages etc. and check the resistance after each removal.
5>Whenever the resistance jumps up, the last plug you removed should be the cause of the fault. To make sure, check the resistance between the two terminals of the removed plug. This should be low again. Then check the entire wire length that goes from the plug.
6>If you remove all the plugs that go out from the fuse, and the resistance is still low, either a) there's still some wire that goes out from the fuse that you couldnt disconnect and is the problem or b) the problem is with the fuse holder itself.
The following users liked this post:
dannoxyz (11-02-2022)
#7
11-29-2006, 11:53 PM
RE: Help...keep blowing fuse
ORIGINAL: ampfp
A fuse blows when something's drawing too much power... e.g. a 10A fuse would blow when something tries to draw >10A of current. Thus it protects the battery and alternator from rogue circuits.
This is usually a characteristic of a short circuit, or where something forms a direct heavy path between the positive and negative wires that run to it.
e.g. diodes in a rectifier can fail by shorting out, rain can help form a short through grease/grime between two open wires/in the plug-sockets... or simply un-taped wires can touch each other and short out. So you need to find which part that the fuse supplies is shorting out.
If you can identify the plugs that go to each of the systems, e.g. tail light or indicators, you can find which line is shorting in the following way:
Technically: Short = Low Resistance
1>With a voltmeter, set it to measure resistance (marked on the meter by a greek letter for 'W', looks like an upside down fishbowl). Set it to 20 or a setting larger than 20 (note: 20k = 20,000).
2>Remove the errant Fuse, and check on the downstream contact of the fuse (upstream would be going to battery, do NOT connect to this contact when in 'resistance' setting or your volmeter might blow), Check the resistance between the downstream contact of the fuse and the ground lead of battery.
3> For the fuse to blow, this resistance should be lower than (12/FuseRating). If you get a higher resistance, something is wrong with the technique or the problem is intermittent. Dont continue with this method then
Otherwise:
4>Remove each plug that goes out from the fuse in sequence, to tail, front guages etc. and check the resistance after each removal.
5>Whenever the resistance jumps up, the last plug you removed should be the cause of the fault. To make sure, check the resistance between the two terminals of the removed plug. This should be low again. Then check the entire wire length that goes from the plug.
6>If you remove all the plugs that go out from the fuse, and the resistance is still low, either a) there's still some wire that goes out from the fuse that you couldnt disconnect and is the problem or b) the problem is with the fuse holder itself.
A fuse blows when something's drawing too much power... e.g. a 10A fuse would blow when something tries to draw >10A of current. Thus it protects the battery and alternator from rogue circuits.
This is usually a characteristic of a short circuit, or where something forms a direct heavy path between the positive and negative wires that run to it.
e.g. diodes in a rectifier can fail by shorting out, rain can help form a short through grease/grime between two open wires/in the plug-sockets... or simply un-taped wires can touch each other and short out. So you need to find which part that the fuse supplies is shorting out.
If you can identify the plugs that go to each of the systems, e.g. tail light or indicators, you can find which line is shorting in the following way:
Technically: Short = Low Resistance
1>With a voltmeter, set it to measure resistance (marked on the meter by a greek letter for 'W', looks like an upside down fishbowl). Set it to 20 or a setting larger than 20 (note: 20k = 20,000).
2>Remove the errant Fuse, and check on the downstream contact of the fuse (upstream would be going to battery, do NOT connect to this contact when in 'resistance' setting or your volmeter might blow), Check the resistance between the downstream contact of the fuse and the ground lead of battery.
3> For the fuse to blow, this resistance should be lower than (12/FuseRating). If you get a higher resistance, something is wrong with the technique or the problem is intermittent. Dont continue with this method then
Otherwise:
4>Remove each plug that goes out from the fuse in sequence, to tail, front guages etc. and check the resistance after each removal.
5>Whenever the resistance jumps up, the last plug you removed should be the cause of the fault. To make sure, check the resistance between the two terminals of the removed plug. This should be low again. Then check the entire wire length that goes from the plug.
6>If you remove all the plugs that go out from the fuse, and the resistance is still low, either a) there's still some wire that goes out from the fuse that you couldnt disconnect and is the problem or b) the problem is with the fuse holder itself.
yea what that guy said
#8
11-30-2006, 12:43 AM
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RE: Help...keep blowing fuse
Ok i got a multi-meter and prodded around for a bit....
I did step 2 and got 6.85 Ohms (i think) which according to step 3 would not cause the fuse to blow. I think it has to occur when i do something. Every time i have notice it blowing it has been after stretching my wrist alittle. MIght be coincidence or not. I put in a new fuse and rode to the gas station. I reved it high, shifted though every gear past neutral 1000 times and nothing. Ill see how it rides tomorrow in the day light when it is safer to not have the tail lamp illumiated.
There is so much connected to this one fuse i have a feeling it is going be hard to single it out.
I did step 2 and got 6.85 Ohms (i think) which according to step 3 would not cause the fuse to blow. I think it has to occur when i do something. Every time i have notice it blowing it has been after stretching my wrist alittle. MIght be coincidence or not. I put in a new fuse and rode to the gas station. I reved it high, shifted though every gear past neutral 1000 times and nothing. Ill see how it rides tomorrow in the day light when it is safer to not have the tail lamp illumiated.
There is so much connected to this one fuse i have a feeling it is going be hard to single it out.
#10
11-02-2022, 11:42 AM
Illumination fuse
Hi Guys, got myself a 2010 blade and enjoying it, however I have started having some strange issues as following:
Any advice on this one perhaps.
Regards
- The soldering on one of the wires on the ignition at the bottom seemed to melted and the wire was disconnected causing the bike to cut out. I have resoldered them and a week later it happened again, I temporary fixed it by using a male and female terminal just to use the blade.
- maybe a week later while coming from a run the HISS light came on and everything went off for a blink of an eye but was able to drive home.
- the following day the red HISS light came on and there after the illumination/dash went off. I have noticed now that the fuse is blown and that the tail light is also not working.
- i have disconnected the rectifier and gone through each plug to identify if what would cause it to blow. the only time the fuse dont blow is when i disconnect the solenoid plug.
- everything besides the dash works fine and the biek starts and drives however after some driving it becomes as if it is over fueling.
Any advice on this one perhaps.
Regards