i can't find any emery cloth, so i got sandpaper. if i find emery cloth with any grain its all too course, and the others i find, its called fine.
getting the springs though, im wondering if i should get get new valves.

 

It's up to you. If you want to spend the extra money, go for it. They certainly wont hurt.

Sandpaper? Better be super fine. You want to polish the tubes smooth... I'd try buffing them smooth with polish first.

 

im dealing with rust so its got to make an impact, but it will probably take a while to do so with the grain i got, then i was thinking 2000 grit on everything.
at $266 each from racetech i need to salvage these fork tubes.

 

Rudy, start w/ 600 grit (ultra fine). 600 will do the bulk of the work. Then you can polish w/ finer grits.

You should be able to find what you need at HomeDepot, Lowes, or any automotive supply shop.

ETA: If you can't salvage your own tubes, you usually buy a complete used set of forks for $200-250.

 

alllllright, did this until my forearms couldn't take anymore. it is cloudy yes, but smooth to the touch,
i did the one on the left at the top for a test area.

but you can see the before and after, some pitting/rust whatever spots remain, so tempted to find something to spin this thing with..
duct taping it to the rear sprocket sounds good.
edit: yes i used 600 grit as recommended but its sandpaper instead, lowes was the only place i didnt try for emery cloth

 

600 grit is 600 grit. ;-) I just take a patch of 600 about as big as my hand, wrap it around the fork tube & work it up & down. Yep, it will take time...lots of time but the savings benefit (if they're salvageable & serviceable) is significant.

Cloudy - smoudy, no worries. ;-)

Isn't it amazing what some elbow grease can do? ;-) Looks like you're well on your way to getting the tube surfaces smoothed out. I really hope you can work w/ them w/o any negative effect from pitting. Its def worth a shot at any rate.

 

has anyone put .95 kg/mm racetech springs in their f4i and determined the length the spacer needs to be?
im trying to understand this formula but then i get to, this will be the required length of the spacer for zero preload.
add the amount of preload required to determine the length of your spacers.
which i suppose the desired length is 10mm? i understand that i may want a different preload but i learn better from
feeling the difference and would love just a spacer length i can put in for a f4i including washers.
also i guess its a external top out because the picture of an internal top out seems to have the spring attached to the cap.. what am i looking at...

 

problem solved, im going to measure the difference between the stock springs and the racetech springs and cut that difference off the stock spacer.
or actually cut that difference into a new spacer

 

well, i got it done, i should of revalved it, i spent probably 10 minutes going back and forth trying to see if they feel the same. i can't tell if my mind is playing tricks on me.
on all suspension setup video's the tensioner makes clicking sounds and mine don't, they just spin. it feels like it makes a difference, but i have no idea.
i'll probably take them apart again, it really wasn't too bad or expensive, and possibly adjust the preload and re-valve it.
ahhah, just looked in the owners manual and realized how to adjust preload. well here comes the fun adventure of learning about suspension now that i have the proper springs.

evidently i did something stupid because my tensioner screws and text dont line up in position they would be mounted on the fork