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Old May 18, 2012 | 02:57 PM
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Hey guys just got my bike on the road has been sitting for two years. Rode it home from work the other day started to knock/rattle and got progressively worse and was running a little hot 220-230 had a very noticeable loss of power throttle pinned would only go 18mph so I shut her off and walked her the rest of the way. pulled the valve cover and the timing was fine did a compression test and came up with (145,145,120,145). Drained my oil last night and found this (pic below) spun rod bearing?

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Last edited by regener8ed; May 22, 2012 at 06:03 AM. Reason: pic fix
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Old May 18, 2012 | 03:15 PM
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pic not working.
 
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Old May 18, 2012 | 03:56 PM
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Chris here's some help w/ pics... https://cbrforum.com/forum/forum-hel...-posts-104022/
 
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Old May 18, 2012 | 04:41 PM
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Thanks Gotcbr let me try this again

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Old May 18, 2012 | 08:31 PM
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i have an 01 f4i sitting for three years ( very few start ups). when i decided to get back into riding, everytime i started the bike up, it would clunk like something is jammed and it abruptly stops. after that it would take awhile for it to start up again as if something was jamming it from cranking. when it did start, there were lots of fuel smell coming from exhaust.

when i took that tank and everything off to diagnose the issue, i found that when i opened up the butterflies on the manifold and stuck a cloth in it soaked up alot of fuel (hydro-locked). The reason for this is because the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) because the bike had been sitting for so long with no fuel additive or stabilizer there were alot of build-ups in the FPR causing it to not be able to transfer some fuel back to the tank. and hydro locking causing crappy start and acceration.

that would be something to check if or when you get a chance to take it apart, this is just from my part, until then you can do some more research also. but with hydro-lock you can cause a lot more damaged (including spun rod bearings) from what i've heard. don't try to start it too many times or not at all until you look through your bike to avoid anymore if major damages.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 01:23 PM
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That could make since riceboy. I also noticed when I pulled the spark plugs that I had put in the day before the middle two plugs look fouled and the outside plugs looked brand new. Did you have any similar experience with the plugs?
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 01:13 AM
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when i had fresh plugs, started out 1 and 2 fouled than moved on to 1,2 and 3. fuel was backing up into the combustion chamber when it couldn't flow smoothly through the fpr. when i did manage to get some start prior to replacing the new fpr i can smell lots of fuel, some smoke coming out exhaust and it was really hot!
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 11:05 PM
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Ok so today I checked the fpr by disconecting the vaccum line and priming the fuel pump gas came out the vaccum conector which from what ive also read is a tell tale sign of a bad fpr. Also the oil smell really strongly of gas so this is a good thing I thought till I filtered my oil and found all the flakes of metal that dropped to the bottom of the oil pan. What now does this mean the motor is shot? im just curious if its even worth replacing the fpr?
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 05:58 AM
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it's hard to say in my opinion, i have never really filtered my oil when draining it for any reason. but metal flakes in oil can mean anything including normal wear and tear of metal components inside crankcase. if its more than flakes, more towards bits and chunks, that would be something else. honestly, i have never encountered anything to the point of checking my oils yet, thank goodness. i hear about a lot of things that can go wrong inside the crankcase with hydro-lock, but never got to the point of opening it to check.
on my bike i went ahead and bought a new fpr and it worked fine, but noticed a slight loss of power. think i might have caused the timing to be off by forcing hand crank during the hydro lock. the bike has never had a new cct replaced since 0 miles, now at 26,000. with a loose chain, timing can be thrown off with manual hand crank.

So if your planning on replacing the fpr, i got mines from a dealer for around $80 bucks. it's your call tho, if its bad, your gonna have to replace it anyway, sooner or later if you wanna keep your bike running. but thats just my opinion.
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 11:40 AM
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Ya I theres one at my local dealer for $80 in stock. Anyone ever had experience with rebuilding the bottom end I could just get pistons and rods, oil pump, and crank off ebay and through those in there or is it more difficult than that sounds easy to me but idk?
 
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