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F4i idling a tad low...

  #1  
Old 07-24-2010, 12:46 AM
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Default F4i idling a tad low...

I've just noticed about a week ago that my '01 F4i has been idling a tad under 1,000 RPMs when I first start it up after warming it up. It goes back up to 1,000 to 1,300 RPMs after riding it for awhile. Everything else seems normal and fine. I changed out the old CCTL at 12,000 miles -- it's now at 13,000 or so miles -- so I know it's not that. Adjusting the idle screw doesn't appear to make a difference...

Any opinions

-Kevin
 
  #2  
Old 07-24-2010, 02:00 AM
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So it idles low instead of high when it's cold? That's kinda goofy. GL!
 
  #3  
Old 07-24-2010, 10:03 AM
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Check your valve clearances. I know the manual says 16k but mine were shot at 8 and it was a barely ridden street only bike. Mine started out acting like yours and then progressed to where it wouldnt start unless i held the throttle open and got it warmed up. then it would run but not very good. ended up being all the intake valves were too tight(recessed into the head because the intake valves arent hardened like the exhaust and the valves actually mushroomed into the ports). If this is whats going on you want to catch it now before it damages the head. Ape has some nice valves for like $200. That beats the extra $600+ if you have to have head work done also to fix damages. Now the main reason I point to valves and not FPR or electrical issue is because you said the idle adjuster does nothing. That would make more since with a valve issue. Oh. before tearing the valve cover off do a compression check. That will be the fastest way to know if there is an issue. Hold the throttle open and see what you have on all the holes. If you have a open valve from being to tight you will have lower compression.
 
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Old 07-24-2010, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jonld View Post
Check your valve clearances. I know the manual says 16k but mine were shot at 8 and it was a barely ridden street only bike. Mine started out acting like yours and then progressed to where it wouldnt start unless i held the throttle open and got it warmed up. then it would run but not very good. ended up being all the intake valves were too tight(recessed into the head because the intake valves arent hardened like the exhaust and the valves actually mushroomed into the ports). If this is whats going on you want to catch it now before it damages the head. Ape has some nice valves for like $200. That beats the extra $600+ if you have to have head work done also to fix damages. Now the main reason I point to valves and not FPR or electrical issue is because you said the idle adjuster does nothing. That would make more since with a valve issue. Oh. before tearing the valve cover off do a compression check. That will be the fastest way to know if there is an issue. Hold the throttle open and see what you have on all the holes. If you have a open valve from being to tight you will have lower compression.
I knew somebody on this forum would know their stuff -- thanks

-Kevin
 
  #5  
Old 07-24-2010, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by F4i Phantom View Post
I knew somebody on this forum would know their stuff -- thanks

-Kevin
Agree 100%, this place is full of valuable info and help.
 
  #6  
Old 07-24-2010, 02:15 PM
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since the idle adjustment screw does nothing..you might have unscrewed it all the way so its out of the threads on the throttle bodies..I know if i lower my idle enough it does this as well.
 
  #7  
Old 07-24-2010, 08:17 PM
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Mine does this as well. I also have only 7700 miles on my bike. To me, it seems it is electrical and 90% sure the battery. After days or a week of not starting the bike, it will start up but will feel very weak, and will idle around 900-1000..After I twist the throttle a tad, it goes right up to the correct 1300 and stays there. I assume and blame it on a dwindling battery. The trickle after not starting it for a while leaves even my new battery a tad tired. But after a long ride, it will start right up at the correct 1300. The battery needs recharging from the stator after a long sit.
 

Last edited by 600F4inoober; 07-24-2010 at 10:07 PM.
  #8  
Old 07-24-2010, 10:08 PM
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^that's a good idea. Happens to me sometimes, but to be incredibly consistent is tough. Like day to day.

After hearing about all this valve talk, I'm gonna be uber paranoid. Is the a walkthrough with pictures anywhere?
 
  #9  
Old 07-24-2010, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Zero1080 View Post
^that's a good idea. Happens to me sometimes, but to be incredibly consistent is tough. Like day to day.

After hearing about all this valve talk, I'm gonna be uber paranoid. Is the a walkthrough with pictures anywhere?
I've been paranoid about it for some time considering I have roughly 30k on the odometer. Checking valve clearance seems like too much of a nightmare though.

But if you have the service manual, which is also available on this forum somewhere, there is a step-by-step with some pictures in there for just about everything including checking valve clearance.
 

Last edited by DBEAU; 07-24-2010 at 10:53 PM.
  #10  
Old 07-24-2010, 10:44 PM
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I just came across this in the service manual and I can't say I'm experiencing any of these symptoms which sets me at ease a bit:
Name:  valvetroubleshooting.png
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The excessive noise thing worries me a bit but my bike makes so many damn noises that I don't know what is what...

And does anyone know what "hard starting" means?
 

Last edited by DBEAU; 07-24-2010 at 10:53 PM.

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