I had to powdercoat some parts today, so I decided to make a small "how to" while I was at it. This is for small parts that can easily be done at home for minimal cost.

$100 for a small powdercoat system
http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/powder_coat.htm

free or very cheap used oven. you can use a toaster over for small parts, or pick up a household oven for larger parts, up to the size of a rim for some.

Powder can be purchased from www.caswellplating.com in a large variety of types and colors to suit your needs. Caswell has descriptions of which powder is used for what. Read their information.

A small compressor that can feed the powdercoat gun 2-5lbs of air. This will require a condensation filter attached to the end of the airhose, as well as a mini regulator attached to the powdercoat gun to control air pressure.

If you shop around, total cost of setup can be in the $200-250 area. An amount that can easily be made back by doing the odd job for friends.


1st step:

Remove all coatings from the part you wish to pc. This can be done by sandblasting, paint stripper, or as I did with these parts, a 3M Scothbrite sanding disk on a diegrinder. Then I cleaned up the edges on a wire wheel grinder. I find this method to be the fastest and cleanest by far. Be sure to get it stripped 100% of all coatings, or you risk a bad finish.

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/427/pcparts018gy.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

2nd step:

Preheat your oven to 350-400 degrees F. The parts need to be thoroughly cleaned of all contaminants such as grease and oil. This includes anything on your hands. In this case, I used a clean cotton shop rag wet with some automotive paint thinner. Handle the part as little as possible with your hands after it is cleaned. As with any chemicals, be sure your workspace is well ventelated.

http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/1...parts023vt.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Step 3:

While you were cleaning your parts, your oven should have been pre-heated. I then suggest you hang your parts in the oven for 10-15 minutes to "bake off" any residue of the thinner, and any other contaminates. This oven is a freebie. The temp guage you see stuck to it is a great investment. It will read more accurate than the one on the stove. It also has a temperature alarm and a timer. I highly suggest one, but it is not a neccessity.

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/3...parts031ua.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/9...parts045oc.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Step 4:

After you remove the parts from the oven, by the hangers with another hook hanger or pliers, let them cool down enough so you can touch the back of your hand to them without getting burned. Then blow them clean with some air. do not touch them with your hands if you can help it. In this case, I just used the lower oven rack to hang the parts from. I attached it to a sawhorse with a c-clamp. Then you just attach the electrode of the powdercoater to the rack to supply a static charge to all the parts. Now it is time to apply the powder. No need to go crazy, but don't be shy either. 3 mil is what I am guessing I applied. I really need to pick me up a guage for this. For small parts like this, just get a good even coating on them. Do the "hard to reach" spots, and edges first. You will also need to keep any threads clear of excessive powder. As you can see in the photo, I used hi-heat silicone plugs. These can be ordered from Caswell as well....and hi-heat masking tape.

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/759/pcparts054xs.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

as you can barely see in this photo, the powder comes out of the gun as a small "cloud". This cloud of powder will attract itself to the static charge of the part. Just like dust on a tv screen. Important....do not have a fan blowing in the direction of the part you will be coating. I shouldn't have to explain why.

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/3...parts062ns.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


Once your parts are coated, they will look something like this. Now you need to make sure you have the rack in the oven at the top setting, and you hang each part on the rack just like the photo of the bare parts being heated to burn off any crap on the metal. Be sure to handle tha parts with care. the powder is only on there by static. If you knock them around or against each other, you will knock off the powder. baking time is around 15 minutes at 350 for this particular powder. However, that is 15 minutes once the substrate (the metal part) reaches 350 degrees. This is something you need to use your judgement on. For these small parts, I just allowed 5 minutes extra. 20 minutes total.

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/5...parts079oa.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


And finally, after 20 minutes you can remove then from the oven and hang them back on your rack you used to coat them with. Allow them to cool down so you don't burn yourself, and they are ready to use.
Nothing to it.

This photo doesn't do the part justice. it is really glossy shiny. It is called "wet black"....and that is how it looks. It came out flawless

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/4...parts084io.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


and there you have. basic powdercoating 101.

 

Wow very nice, about i send you some parts to practice on haha. Thats very nice, we need pics of it on the bike though

 

Nice summary. I'm thinking of trying this.

Question: When you save remove coatings from the surface, what are we talking about exactly? I'm thinking of the indeterminate metal Honda uses for stuff like the rear pegs and the heel guard and shifter linkage.

Will this stuff take powder coat> What surface prep is required?

--Paul

 

This will definately work for rear sets and gas caps!

 

and bolts...

 

not to bad of a write up. i powder coat for my occupation. the only thing i would say is if you want to clear the parts also for extra protection dont let the part cure all the way let it bake for like 10 min pull out let temp drop to 90 then recoat with clear then re bake

 

nice write up, thanks for the effort. what's your cost to PC front brake calipers? cheapest price I can find around here is a guy that will do them $35/ea. wonder how much he's making off that.

 

its all in the color for pricing we have colors that range from about $12 a pound to $55 a pound

 

the pricing given was for gloss black color, and only if I strip the calipers before giving them to him.

 

Because technically you have to take the caliper completely apart and put it back together to do it correctly, that kind of heat to bake it might destroy the rubber seals.