I've taken a look at a fault finding flow chart I found on the web. The flow chart is located here: http://www.crowitis.com/images/fault_finding.pdf

When I rev the engine to 5000 rpm, I'm getting 14.6 as my voltage. Which is in the range at in the fault finding flow chart.

I charged my battery before I tested it. Also it starts up fine after I charge the bike, but after I ride it for awhile, it has a little trouble starting up. I can probably start it up maybe 7 times before the battery dies and it won't start anymore and have to put the battery on a tender.

I'm gonna go remove the left fairing and test the 3 yellow stator wires when I get home after work. Do I just unplug the connectors from the stator and put the multimeter leads to test the three wires(A-B, A-C, B-Cby sticking the leads into the plugged in connectors.

The service manual says to test for continuity between all three wires and the ground. How exactly do I measure "continuity"? Do I put the red positive lead from the mulitmeter to one of the three wires and put the black lead from the multimeter to the stator cover?

Any help will be great!

 

Put either lead on the wire and the other to ground. It doesn't matter which. You hope not to find any continuity there, and find open circuits to ground.

 

Which circuit would be the "ground"?

Also I charged the battery, took it out, and it reads 12.9 volts(Dont know if thats good or bad,because thats means the battery is good right? But that means my r/r or stator must be bad?).

 

Could this be the problem? It's the connector coming from the stator.



I couldn't figure out how to take out the wires to clean them.

I have a multimeter from home depot that looks like this.



I switched the dial to the 200ohms symbol (Lower left symbol if you are looking at the dial in the upright orientation, sorry the black wire is blocking it) and I kept getting weird readings, though they were all consistent with the other wires. It was reading 1,1,1??? Am I doing this correct? This is my first time using this!

I checked the other connection from the r/r and they seemed to be clean. I didn't know what else to check. The battery terminals were pretty clean.

After charging the battery, I began testing the battery WITH the stator hooked up. The dial was set to 20 DC volts

Ignition Off 12.85 volts
Keys Turned, Low Beam, Ignition Off 10.28 volts
Low Beam, Ignition On 13.28 volts
High Beam, Ignition On 12.10 volts
Low Beam Only, 2k RPM 14.0 volts
Low Beam Only, 5k RPM 14.28 volts---> Let sit couple seconds and drops to 13.6 volts.

If I try to start the bike again, I can already tell the battery is drained a little because it doesn't turnover(Is this the correct term?) as quickly as the first start up.

I also couldn't figure out how to test the continuity(One lead to the stator wire, another lead to a ground?? But which wire do I use for as a ground?)

I should have probably mention that I have aftermarket led mirrors and signal lights installed as running lights. Also I installed some DDM tunning 35 watt HID lights. However, I was having this problem before I installed the HID lights(But I'm sure they're not helping )

 

Ground is anywhere on the frame or motor that is metal. What you're looking for is to see if the stator windings are grounded out.

Have you load tested the battery?
See if you can keep the voltmeter hooked up while you ride it. Tape it to the tank so you can watch it and see if it goes into discharge or something like that. I wish Honda would have put a volt gauge on it from the factory....

 

You can take it to advance auto parts and get them to test the cold cranks. Mine was doing the same it would crank fine after a charge but after every start it seemed to die a little more and more. I took it to advance auto and they can load test it for voltage and cold cranks. I bought a new battery and i have no more problems. Don't go to autozone or oreilly they don't have a load tester just a multimeter. But if you want to buy a battery from the three go to oreilly.

 

Theres no auto advance stores here in 95382 : ((((((((((((((((

 

Take it to just about any auto repair shop. They should be able to test it for you, and quickly. The load test lasts no more tan 15 seconds.

 

That sucks but what demon said. Most any shop can load test it. I would get it load tested before buying anything.

 

This sounds like the exact same problem I was having and it was the R/R.
If I drove with the high beams on the display would go dim until I revved it and if I turned it off and bump started it the hi beam indicator light would work fine again.

I was getting the same values as you during my testing as well.