Changing brake fluid
#2
RE: Changing brake fluid
It all depends how you want to do it. I would recommend a Vacuum pump as opposed to the old school method. Put the vacuum system on the bleeder valve and pull a vacuum, make sure that before you get all the fluid out of the reservoir, you stop to add more fluid to keep the chances of air bubbles down. Pay attention to how much you put in and comes out of the system, IF there is a quality difference watch for clean fluid to come out of the bleeder. Once the old fluid has been cycled out top up and double/ triple check for bubbles and proper lever feel.
1. Attach vacuum pump to bleeder nozzle.
2. Take reservoir cap off.
3. Pull a vacuum.
4. Open bleeder
5. Watch fluid level in reservoir to make sure it never gets empty enough to allow air bubbles.
6.Add more fluid, bleed more out
7.When old fluid has been cycled out, top up and bleed again, making sure you have proper lever feel.
Ive never bled a Dual front caliper system. Id imagine that you can do it the same, you just need extra hose and a T fitting to simultaneously bleed both front brakes. A friend who may or may not have done this before would probably be a bit of help if you are not totally comfortable.
1. Attach vacuum pump to bleeder nozzle.
2. Take reservoir cap off.
3. Pull a vacuum.
4. Open bleeder
5. Watch fluid level in reservoir to make sure it never gets empty enough to allow air bubbles.
6.Add more fluid, bleed more out
7.When old fluid has been cycled out, top up and bleed again, making sure you have proper lever feel.
Ive never bled a Dual front caliper system. Id imagine that you can do it the same, you just need extra hose and a T fitting to simultaneously bleed both front brakes. A friend who may or may not have done this before would probably be a bit of help if you are not totally comfortable.
#3
RE: Changing brake fluid
Getting a vacuum pump will help make it easier, I just did it without, by pumping the lever i.e.
Replacing fluid:
* attach hose to bleed valve and put it in a bottle.
* open bleed valve
* open reservoir cap
* pump brake lever to drain... until reservoir level is low but not empty
* fill fluid
* pump to drain... repeat until fluid is all new color and clear
Bleeding (getting rid of bubbles):
* open bleed valve, push in brake lever
* clear fluid with maybe a few bubbles will come out the bleed tube
* close bleed valve while lever is in, then release lever
* if no bubbles + brake feel is tight, close the reservoir and you're good to go, otherwise repeat this
* Read the service manual before doing this, might give you extra details
* For front calipers get a t-joint attachment. make sure you watch for bubbles in both bleed valves. If there are a lot you could bleed both separately, bleeding the bottom one first (tilt of bike) and then top (keep both attached).
* It can be hard to get the tubes onto the valves. I used a nose plier to enlarge the end of the tube before I could put it on the valve.
Replacing fluid:
* attach hose to bleed valve and put it in a bottle.
* open bleed valve
* open reservoir cap
* pump brake lever to drain... until reservoir level is low but not empty
* fill fluid
* pump to drain... repeat until fluid is all new color and clear
Bleeding (getting rid of bubbles):
* open bleed valve, push in brake lever
* clear fluid with maybe a few bubbles will come out the bleed tube
* close bleed valve while lever is in, then release lever
* if no bubbles + brake feel is tight, close the reservoir and you're good to go, otherwise repeat this
* Read the service manual before doing this, might give you extra details
* For front calipers get a t-joint attachment. make sure you watch for bubbles in both bleed valves. If there are a lot you could bleed both separately, bleeding the bottom one first (tilt of bike) and then top (keep both attached).
* It can be hard to get the tubes onto the valves. I used a nose plier to enlarge the end of the tube before I could put it on the valve.
#5
#6
RE: Changing brake fluid
brake fluid should be changed on a time basis, not a mileage basis. brake fluid is hydrophilic, so it absorbs ambient moisture in the air. as it absorbs the moisture, its boiling point lowers such that it becomes easier to boil the fluid at lower temperatures, leading to a spongy brake lever and decreased braking ability.
12,000 miles in 6 months? nah don't need new fluid. 12,000 miles in 3 years with no fluid change? DO IT.
FWIW, i change my brake fluid every few months or so, but this is on a track bike where the brakes and fluid see high temps.
12,000 miles in 6 months? nah don't need new fluid. 12,000 miles in 3 years with no fluid change? DO IT.
FWIW, i change my brake fluid every few months or so, but this is on a track bike where the brakes and fluid see high temps.
#7
#9
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