has anyone tried unscrewing the top and pouring some oil into the hole...to see if it helps with the noise? im tempted to give it a try.

 

Hi I'm new here but looking to join the CBR600F club. The attached video is the bike I want to buy but was put off by the vibrations and noise. It went high pitched in second and third gear and wondered if it was the CCT like this thread was talking about.

(sorry about the video being on its side if you're watching it before its rotated).

 

I can't hear the CCT really in that vid, that bike sounds like it has other issues. I'd steer clear of it.

 

^ Flipperd, As we said in your "buying advice" thread, that bike's got more going on. https://cbrforum.com/forum/f4i-main-...needed-143706/

 

Sorry didn't mean to post this in 2 places. Just was impatient waiting for it to appear. Really appreciated the feedback.

 

Doesn't sound like a cam chain to me, although sound is not great in a video. With CCTL failing, on my bike, you could hear uniform chain knocking at exactly the same RPM - 5K if I remember correctly. Bike only had 8K miles on it at that time. I replace CCTL with the newer 'revision'. Only rode just over 2K since then, so can't vouch for OEM reliability.

 

I was watching an instructional video on youtube and the guy prefers to remove the fuel tank, air filter, velocity stack and throttle body to get clear access to the CCTL.

Does this seem like overkill?
I'm pretty OCD about doing things to spec and I was thinking I may need to go this route in order to properly torque down the CCTL bolts and just making it easier to access things overall.

Update...
I ended up removing the tank, air filter box and throttle bodies after all to get to the CCTL. It was bit of a PITA but I took it as a way to get to know my bike a little better.

 

That's what the service manual tells you to do. But the CCTL is replaceable without removing throttle bodies (still have to pull the air filter and gas tank off). Huge PITA without removing throttle bodies, but still takes less time.

 

I wish I had removed the airbox and throttle bodies. My hands are WAY to big to do this any other way. I got it done but talk about a pain in the ***.

 

So I orginally tightened the adjuster to tight and the motor couldnt spin fast enough to start. I back it off a couple turns and every time it spun faster and faster until it start perfectly. It ran up to about 130 degrees then shut off. I back it off just a quarter turn and now its running better than ever. There is literally ZERO rattling sound and probably 95% of the vibration is gone. Feels like a whole new bike now. Im very happy.