Had a quick question. The temp on my F4i reaches 235 before the radiator fan turns on. I've replaced the fan switch, thermostat, main temp sensor all in hopes of fixing the issue. Still turns fan on at 235+. Used heat gauge to see what the temp of the radiator was and the heat gauge shows the fan coming on at 220ish. Which is the correct temp for the fan to switch on. So I can only assume the digital temp gauge is incorrect. Is there a way to calibrate the digital temp readout? Or, is there something I'm missing?

 

235 is when your radiator fan kicks on i can only guess its engine temperature or something instead of actual water temperature.

 

Sometimes, even new parts are bad out of the box.
The temp switch does seem like it is operating correctly, though.
If you want to verify it...

You can pull the thermoswitch, hook up a continuity check to the contacts.
put it in a pan of water and heat-it up till it shows continuity (closed circuit).
By montoring the water temp, you can determine if the switch is working properly.

On the F3, the switch grounds at 208-216F, it opens between 199-207F.
It should be similar for your bike (although, this is an assumption, on my part).
I don't have a copy of your bike's manual to verify this though.
(I do recommend that you get one for yourself, though.)

If it's not the switch and is indeed the sensor/guage reporting that's the issue,
I would check to see if there is any blockage between the sensor and the radiator.
That might allow the water temp to be much higher (locally at the sensor),
because it hasn't shed the heat yet. This is speculation on my part, though.

If you have a infrared heat sensor, you should try checking the area, immediately around the sensor,
to verify that the sensor is correctly/in-correctly reporting the temperature at IT's location.

Once you've eliminated that possibility, then consider, whether the display can be re-calibrated to show a corrected value.

On the issue of the original question, re-calibrating the display...
That isn't something I can competently assist you with.
Hopefully, someone else can add a useful comment, on that front.

I know that doesn't help with your question, as stated.
I mention, the issues I have raised, to be sure you're approaching
the problem correctly.

I hope this helps, Ern

 

220 is when the fan turns on stock. If the op verified the temp is at 220 when his fan comes on then the readout on the dash is wrong. There is no way to calibrate it so either the sending unit or the dash itself has something going wrong with it.

 

ruh roh, i need to double check mine, is there any outside factors like airbox temp or ambient temperature?

 

so you replaced the sensor... how the sensor works is on resistance as the temp changes the resistance will either increase or decrease.... i would suggest before saying the cluster is out go through the wiring make sure there are no stretched wires worn connections heavy dirt debri or degraded terminals.... that could change the resistance enough to throw the reading off... i work in HVAC and deal with thermistors all the time i have found crazy things that change resistance.... especially bad wiring practices ..hope this helps a little..... (ECT Sensor)

could even be voltage issue .....any way G/Bu from cluster through 9pin connector through harness then to 12pin connector then to sensor\ P and G/O from sensor go through 12 pin connecto then through harness back to ecu. the distance it travels in the bike i hope you find a flaw that is a easy fix. could also get a buddy and test a ecu or gauge cluster and eleminate those variables

its late sorry no spell check Night

 

Thanks all for the reply. Yes, the main temp sensor at the thermostat housing was replaced along with the thermostat and fan thermo switch. An infrared heat gauge was used to determine the fan was switching on at 220. Come to think about it, I didn't start having trouble until I added resistors to the front LED turn signals. Don't know if that would cause an issue with resistance to the heat sensor. I may remove them to see if that does anything. I am relieved the bike isn't overheating but sure would like to have an accurate reading on the display.