Brake Pads Rubbing
Hey,
I changed the brake pads on my bike and flushed and bleed the system but when I spin the wheel it sounds like the pads are rubbing a little to much, I know they should rub abit but it just doesnt sound right?
When I change the pads I broke 2 sockets trying to turn the caliper bolt so I did it with them still on. I pushed the cylinders back before I installed the new pads.
My buddy told me to take them shims out and install the pads, but I wasn't sure on doing that?
Would this be because they are new pads and they will get quieter as I put on miles? I have done about 600kms since I did the change.
It is just alot more of a scraping sound then with the old pads.
If anyone has any solutions that may help it would be appreciated.
Cheers
I changed the brake pads on my bike and flushed and bleed the system but when I spin the wheel it sounds like the pads are rubbing a little to much, I know they should rub abit but it just doesnt sound right?
When I change the pads I broke 2 sockets trying to turn the caliper bolt so I did it with them still on. I pushed the cylinders back before I installed the new pads.
My buddy told me to take them shims out and install the pads, but I wasn't sure on doing that?
Would this be because they are new pads and they will get quieter as I put on miles? I have done about 600kms since I did the change.
It is just alot more of a scraping sound then with the old pads.
If anyone has any solutions that may help it would be appreciated.
Cheers
Last edited by jeffjones; Dec 29, 2010 at 02:17 PM.
could be the compound of the friction material being different...or even just the fresh fluid. without being there to experience it myself it's hard for me to say exactly. i've only ever changed rear pads on my bike, but after a 50 mile ride to break them in, they were quiet, and grabbed great.
also. could be they haven't seated into the rotor yet (this would only happen if your rotor surface wasn't completely smooth or flat).
also. could be they haven't seated into the rotor yet (this would only happen if your rotor surface wasn't completely smooth or flat).
Last edited by Xander F4i; Dec 29, 2010 at 04:48 PM.
Are the pads OEM? I recently installed EBC HH's and there is friction noise, the wheel doesn't bind up or anything. I am sure as more of the pad wears away there will be more play between the pads and rotors, I wouldn't worry about it.
When you were changing the pads, did you prepare the surface of the rotors? It can easily be done by using soaked in water fine sand paper.
Also, what kind of break pads did you get? This is very important, since there are quite a few compounds for very different purposes. Some might need a very long time to "break" in, some just need to be at certain temperature to work properly.
Also, what kind of break pads did you get? This is very important, since there are quite a few compounds for very different purposes. Some might need a very long time to "break" in, some just need to be at certain temperature to work properly.
When you were changing the pads, did you prepare the surface of the rotors? It can easily be done by using soaked in water fine sand paper.
Also, what kind of break pads did you get? This is very important, since there are quite a few compounds for very different purposes. Some might need a very long time to "break" in, some just need to be at certain temperature to work properly.
Also, what kind of break pads did you get? This is very important, since there are quite a few compounds for very different purposes. Some might need a very long time to "break" in, some just need to be at certain temperature to work properly.
I did not do any preps to the rotors.
The brakes work really good, lots of grip its just when you walk the bike or spin the wheel it sounds really bad but I havent had any problems while I am driving.
I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't be hurting anything.
Ok thanks, It just didn't sound right at all but in the spring I'll just keep an eye on it.
If anyone is curious the term for that is burnishing and it's usually accomplished (at least in part) in a test drive before a vehicle is returned to a customer. In the Auto industry the general rule we go by is 30/30/30. This means 30 stops at 30mph with 30 second cooling period in between. Generally we don't go as far as all that though
When bedding pads in, it's a little easier with a bike because you can use your rear brake. Basically start off with slow, hard stops (maybe 30mph to 5 mph) then go up to 50mph, 70mph, etc. You basically want to get the rotors/pads are hot as possible, but do not come to a complete stop until you are home, then just let them cool down.
When bedding pads in, it's a little easier with a bike because you can use your rear brake. Basically start off with slow, hard stops (maybe 30mph to 5 mph) then go up to 50mph, 70mph, etc. You basically want to get the rotors/pads are hot as possible, but do not come to a complete stop until you are home, then just let them cool down.
In order to properly burnish your pads to the braking surface they need the ability to cool between stops. Stops should be fast enough to get them good and warm with enough friction and movement to reshape the pad without overheating it.
Overheated brake pads harden the friction material and reduce stopping distance. This is an accentuated problem if your pads don't yet match your rotor surface.
Last edited by jp_greenville13; Dec 29, 2010 at 11:40 PM.


