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APE Tensioner Nut size

  #1  
Old 07-19-2011, 03:43 PM
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Default APE Tensioner Nut size

Got the thing put in, and forgot to get the right size open wrench to get the final set. Not the bolts, but the nut to lock it down.

Just a quick and easy question for anyone that knows. Looks about a 14mm?
 
  #2  
Old 07-19-2011, 06:13 PM
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i'm thinking it is 16mm
 
  #3  
Old 07-20-2011, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Audi_F4i View Post
i'm thinking it is 16mm
That is correct.... 16mm for both the lock nut and the bolt

Also if you use an angled wrench like this (make sure it's 12 point and not 6), it makes it sooooooooooooo much easier to get on the lock nut, and even the bolt too. I bought these specifically for doing the CCT, otherwise you end up rounding the corners of the nut off after a couple times loosening/tightening. You can get a cheapo set of these wrenches at Advance Auto Parts/Autozone for about $20.... def not top quality but it'll get the job done in a pinch

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Old 07-20-2011, 12:48 PM
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For those of you with APE's....and Jared maybe you can chime in too....seeing as my last OEM auto J24 CCTL went out in 3000 miles...and I plan on doing the APE this weekend...do you need to adjust them often...given I bolt her down correctly and tight...how often (if ever) does the bolt/nut back out and need to be adjusted?
 
  #5  
Old 07-22-2011, 01:49 PM
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I had my APE tensioner on for 77k miles before I replaced the timing chain itself (nothing wrong with it, just for safe measure), and in that time I think I adjusted it "maybe" twice. So not that often at all. The adjustments aren't required because of the bolt backing out, but to compensate for the chain stretching over time. The chain stretches the most when it's brand new... once it gets it's initial stretching done it pretty much stays there. After I replaced my chain I had to adjust it 2 or 3 times within 15k miles or so, but then it was fine after that and I prob won't have to adjust it again for a long time
 
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Old 07-22-2011, 02:43 PM
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Thanks Jared- So really, seeing as I have 13k on the timing chain already, after installing the APE, I shouldnt ever have to readjust it?

When you adjusted yours (you said maybe twice in 77k) did you hear/notice anything that made you adjust it? Or you just did it as a preventative measure/maintenance?

I know its been beaten to death...but anyone got a linky to the best APE write up? Theres so many and some seem to be false (i.e. doing tdc etc..turning bike on with APE in and then adjusting it) I just want to make sure I do it correctly the first time so im not adjusting it ever again
 
  #7  
Old 07-22-2011, 02:46 PM
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Link for the how to:

http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...threadid=81780

I just did mine yesterday and used that how to exactly.
 
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Old 07-23-2011, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by supersnake83 View Post
Link for the how to:

F4i CCT Swap - pictures/directions - BARF - Bay Area Riders Forum

I just did mine yesterday and used that how to exactly.
+1 Same one I used. Got the thing installed, and it sounds beautiful.
While I had it all torn down, I did the kleen air mod as well. Shes never run better ha.

Oh and to anyone installing, I used a 5/8 open face wrench, but I cut it down to about 4-5 inches long so that it does not hit the frame or engine block when adjusting. This way you can get almost 180 degrees of wrench twist without having to reposition. Its my CCTL wrench now.
 
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Old 07-23-2011, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by justing66 View Post
+1 Same one I used. Got the thing installed, and it sounds beautiful.
While I had it all torn down, I did the kleen air mod as well. Shes never run better ha.

Oh and to anyone installing, I used a 5/8 open face wrench, but I cut it down to about 4-5 inches long so that it does not hit the frame or engine block when adjusting. This way you can get almost 180 degrees of wrench twist without having to reposition. Its my CCTL wrench now.
Was the 5/8" open wrench (spanner) a good fit without much wiggle?

I had forgot to double check if 16mm or 5/8" would be better before I started, but I used the 16mm based on the how to guide.

In any event, great idea, because I had a really hard time maneuvering my wrench to tighten the lock bolt.
 

Last edited by supersnake83; 07-23-2011 at 10:40 AM.
  #10  
Old 07-23-2011, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by supersnake83 View Post
Was the 5/16" open wrench (spanner) a good fit without much wiggle?

I had forgot to double check if 16mm or 5/8" would be better before I started, but I used the 16mm based on the how to. I had a gut feeling that the bolt would be SAE instead of Metric.

In any event, great idea, because I had a really hard time maneuvering my wrench to tighten the lock bolt.

5/16" wrench? For which application? Or did you perhaps mean a 9/16"?

I would have used a 16mm, but for some reason my tool set skips 16mm, and all the kits I found at the store were the same unless you bought the huge expensive kit. The 5/8" fit just fine and didnt roll the edges at all. Maybe it was the correct size, I dont know, but it worked just fine.
 

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