2001 F4i Out of time
I just recently did a head gasket on the bike and it ran with the intake cam being one tooth off well I reset the engine to the timing marks on the clutch cover and moved the cam tooth one down to make the bike in spec with cam but after assembly the bike would not start again I was told by a family friend that I was supposed to set the timing marks on the fly wheel and Im confused because I have yet to see any where online that specifies this. What i'm really asking for is what is the proper way to time the engine correctly.
What was your procedure to set cam-timing?
Before wasting time tearing engine apart, do compression test. That'll tell you right away if cams' timing is out of whack:
1. cylinder 1 compression psi = ???
2. cylinder 2 compression psi = ???
3. cylinder 3 compression psi = ???
4. cylinder 4 compression psi = ???
Then squirt 1cc engine-oil down each spark-plug hole and repeat compression test.
5. cylinder 1 compression psi = ???
6. cylinder 2 compression psi = ???
7. cylinder 3 compression psi = ???
8. cylinder 4 compression psi = ???
Before wasting time tearing engine apart, do compression test. That'll tell you right away if cams' timing is out of whack:
1. cylinder 1 compression psi = ???
2. cylinder 2 compression psi = ???
3. cylinder 3 compression psi = ???
4. cylinder 4 compression psi = ???
Then squirt 1cc engine-oil down each spark-plug hole and repeat compression test.
5. cylinder 1 compression psi = ???
6. cylinder 2 compression psi = ???
7. cylinder 3 compression psi = ???
8. cylinder 4 compression psi = ???
What was your procedure to set cam-timing?
Before wasting time tearing engine apart, do compression test. That'll tell you right away if cams' timing is out of whack:
1. cylinder 1 compression psi = ???
2. cylinder 2 compression psi = ???
3. cylinder 3 compression psi = ???
4. cylinder 4 compression psi = ???
Then squirt 1cc engine-oil down each spark-plug hole and repeat compression test.
5. cylinder 1 compression psi = ???
6. cylinder 2 compression psi = ???
7. cylinder 3 compression psi = ???
8. cylinder 4 compression psi = ???
Before wasting time tearing engine apart, do compression test. That'll tell you right away if cams' timing is out of whack:
1. cylinder 1 compression psi = ???
2. cylinder 2 compression psi = ???
3. cylinder 3 compression psi = ???
4. cylinder 4 compression psi = ???
Then squirt 1cc engine-oil down each spark-plug hole and repeat compression test.
5. cylinder 1 compression psi = ???
6. cylinder 2 compression psi = ???
7. cylinder 3 compression psi = ???
8. cylinder 4 compression psi = ???
Did it run after you put it back together but one tooth off?
Did you take cam-sprockets off cams and put back on? Probably not, no problems there.
Did you tighten cam-chain lifter shaft with screwdriver after removing tensioner?
That's no big deal as that's probably was caused it to be off by one tooth. If it never ran after reassembling, 1-tooth off isn't the problem. If you've verified both cams are lined up at head after spinning engine 2x and re-aligning T mark on crank with cover, then timing is spot-on. Confirm with:
1. compression test with 2nd wet test
2. take valve-cover off, set crank at T mark, post photo of both cam-sprockets lined up with edge of head
3. on opposite side, rotate engine so fingers of cam-pulse generator "fingers" aimed upwards. Then take photo of fingers from downward angle so middle of cam is visible
Most likely this is electronics issue. Some wire may have gotten broken in process of removing & installing engine. Or connector may have gotten yanked loose.
Did you take cam-sprockets off cams and put back on? Probably not, no problems there.
Did you tighten cam-chain lifter shaft with screwdriver after removing tensioner?
That's no big deal as that's probably was caused it to be off by one tooth. If it never ran after reassembling, 1-tooth off isn't the problem. If you've verified both cams are lined up at head after spinning engine 2x and re-aligning T mark on crank with cover, then timing is spot-on. Confirm with:
1. compression test with 2nd wet test
2. take valve-cover off, set crank at T mark, post photo of both cam-sprockets lined up with edge of head
3. on opposite side, rotate engine so fingers of cam-pulse generator "fingers" aimed upwards. Then take photo of fingers from downward angle so middle of cam is visible
Most likely this is electronics issue. Some wire may have gotten broken in process of removing & installing engine. Or connector may have gotten yanked loose.
Then pulse-generator has 3 "fingers" that tell ECU about position of cam so it knows when TDC is getting close. What frequently happens when cams are removed for valve-adjustments is they are dropped onto bench little too hard. This bends the fingers on pulse-generator wheel. This throws off pulse timing and ECU gets wrong signals relative to crank pulses. A tiny bend in fingers may change ignition-timing. But larger changes causes ECU confusion and no spark. Easily found with oscilloscope comparing CMP vs CKP signals:

Post photo of your cam pulse-generator fingers on other end of cam.
Have you done spark test and confirmed there is or is not sparks?
Post photo of your cam pulse-generator fingers on other end of cam.
Have you done spark test and confirmed there is or is not sparks?
Then pulse-generator has 3 "fingers" that tell ECU about position of cam so it knows when TDC is getting close. What frequently happens when cams are removed for valve-adjustments is they are dropped onto bench little too hard. This bends the fingers on pulse-generator wheel. This throws off pulse timing and ECU gets wrong signals relative to crank pulses. A tiny bend in fingers may change ignition-timing. But larger changes causes ECU confusion and no spark. Easily found with oscilloscope comparing CMP vs CKP signals:

Post photo of your cam pulse-generator fingers on other end of cam.
Have you done spark test and confirmed there is or is not sparks?
Post photo of your cam pulse-generator fingers on other end of cam.
Have you done spark test and confirmed there is or is not sparks?
Alright, that looks OK, fingers aren't bent.

And shocking yourself confirms ECU is firing sparks.
Do this test:
1. squirt 2-3cc petrol into airbox
2. wait 30-sec for it to vapourise
3. start engine
Does it run?
And shocking yourself confirms ECU is firing sparks.
Do this test:
1. squirt 2-3cc petrol into airbox
2. wait 30-sec for it to vapourise
3. start engine
Does it run?
I’m on my last hoorah on this bike I am going to replace the plugs if this doesn’t work I will be parting the bike out.
I did get the bike to run the combination on new plugs/ Coils did the trick, the bike now runs but now I’m on the hunt for a gremlin in the bike the bike likes to run away on you if you rev it up it will continue to rev until red line even if your hand isn’t on the throttle what should I check because it doesn’t wanna come down(yes I’ve adjusted the idle).


