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-   -   2001 cbr 600 f4i manual cct adjustment (https://cbrforum.com/forum/f4i-main-forum-11/2001-cbr-600-f4i-manual-cct-adjustment-155233/)

xifer 11-17-2016 10:53 AM

2001 cbr 600 f4i manual cct adjustment
 
Hey guys, im wondering about how to adjust my manual CCT, i recently bought this bike, and the previous owner put in a APE manual CCT i believe. because of the red color and the fact its clearly manual. im having ticking / obvious cct noises, and wondering if i can simply just tighten/loosen the bolt until the sound goes away, or do i put the bike in TDC or something? i heard alot of horror storys about skipping teeth , and ****ing up ur motor, so i dont wanna do that, thanks alot

- xifer

boredandstroked 11-17-2016 12:20 PM

Tighten the adjustment bolt a 1/4 turn and start the bike. Keep doing that until the noise is gone.

xifer 11-17-2016 07:04 PM


Originally Posted by boredandstroked (Post 1300130)
Tighten the adjustment bolt a 1/4 turn and start the bike. Keep doing that until the noise is gone.

Do you have any ways you suggest to be able to access the CCT? i dont want to have to remove the tank,throttle bodys, etc, to turn it 1/4 of a turn just to reattach each part just to have to do more adjustment.

SunBlue 11-17-2016 10:47 PM

You can try using the service access hole in the side of the frame, or be creative and run a series of extensions and joints from the back (near the rear brake/coolant reservoir) below the frame or a combination thereof

When I was replacing my CCT I tried and failed at both methods, it was more painful than just going at it from the top so I ended up doing it the long way. (PS You don't have to remove the tank just prop it up, same with the throttle body you don't have to disconnect everything) Maybe you won't even need to remove the throttle bodies either if you're just adjusting it but I could be wrong. I have the auto cct but doesn't the manual one come with a locknut that you have to tighten too? that might be tricky.
Personally I'd just do it the long way... I timed myself (for unrelated reasons... was timing how long it takes me to get to the spark plugs) and it takes 15 minutes max to prop tank up, take airbox off and throttle bodies off the rubber boots. Maybe add another 15 if the owner has never taken the throttle bodies off and they are well stuck.

Good luck! hope you can find some easy way

boredandstroked 11-18-2016 11:45 AM

No need to remove throttle bodies etc. Extensions and twisty joints are your friend.

xifer 11-18-2016 12:09 PM


Originally Posted by boredandstroked (Post 1300151)
No need to remove throttle bodies etc. Extensions and twisty joints are your friend.

i ended up being able to tighten it using this, and the sound is still there...? i tightened it probably a half to a full turn aswell.. ill record a new video what it sounds like today

boredandstroked 11-19-2016 01:51 PM

Hopefully the previous owner didn't over tighten and hurt the chain or guide then. I'd probably start pulling stuff to check myself.

rfesu 11-19-2016 04:44 PM

if you slowly back off the CCT while the bike idles, you'll hear the noise a loose cam chain makes. it sounds like your engine is full of gravel. cam chains don't really tick. then you can turn it back in until that rattle stops.

this is safe as long as you don't keep going really far once you hear noise. it's VERY hard to jump a cam chain at low rpm.

i recommend this because you might not be hearing cam chain noise, you might be hearing something else....

...and also since you're just blindly turning it in, you don't know how tight it was in the first place, you might have gone too far now...

i find the best tool for manual cct adjustment is a 5/8ths box wrench chopped in half with a hacksaw. the only thing preventing a regular box wrench from working is length.

xifer 11-19-2016 06:16 PM


Originally Posted by rfesu (Post 1300166)
if you slowly back off the CCT while the bike idles, you'll hear the noise a loose cam chain makes. it sounds like your engine is full of gravel. cam chains don't really tick. then you can turn it back in until that rattle stops.

this is safe as long as you don't keep going really far once you hear noise. it's VERY hard to jump a cam chain at low rpm.

i recommend this because you might not be hearing cam chain noise, you might be hearing something else....

...and also since you're just blindly turning it in, you don't know how tight it was in the first place, you might have gone too far now...

i find the best tool for manual cct adjustment is a 5/8ths box wrench chopped in half with a hacksaw. the only thing preventing a regular box wrench from working is length.

from what ive seen/heard about the noise of a manual cct when its too tight, i dont think that is the case here..

Twreks 11-20-2016 10:10 PM

I'm in the same position as you right now. I got all the fairings off and my plan is to go for a ride, adjust the tensioner, ride again until I get it to the point I like.

boredandstroked 11-28-2016 02:47 PM

I would not ride without the tension set right. Idle rpm is all you need.

xifer 12-10-2016 07:01 PM

do you have to loosen the stopnut when you're changing the tension?, as in tightening it? i still havent gotten this noise fixed, and i want to adjust it again, but im not sure.
i know this is a stupid question, but if im going to be playing with the adjustment, i would rather not take everything apart just to adjust the stopnut

PossibleOne 12-11-2016 04:02 PM

Just a thought too, since that plastic does wear....it could just be worn past service. Start from the beginning. As stated before you are not sure where he had it...I do not have a manual one but if you are referring to the locknut for the adjustment bolt then you would have to free that up to change depth of bolt. Sure is a pain but aside from the actual cct procedure, you really want to make sure that something else isnt going on, and at the very least your lifter is doing its job.

have you always had the sound since you had it? Its possible the adjustment was incorrect to start with, even prior to the aftermarket tensioner and that lifter being plastic, an incorrect adjustment could easily shred it.

xifer 12-11-2016 04:20 PM


Originally Posted by PossibleOne (Post 1300647)
Just a thought too, since that plastic does wear....it could just be worn past service. Start from the beginning. As stated before you are not sure where he had it...I do not have a manual one but if you are referring to the locknut for the adjustment bolt then you would have to free that up to change depth of bolt. Sure is a pain but aside from the actual cct procedure, you really want to make sure that something else isnt going on, and at the very least your lifter is doing its job.

have you always had the sound since you had it? Its possible the adjustment was incorrect to start with, even prior to the aftermarket tensioner and that lifter being plastic, an incorrect adjustment could easily shred it.

The sound is gone now, i used a series of extensions to get to it again, and i tightened the bolt and then the locknut. I didn't loosen the locknut prior to this.
I'll update if my bike's engine explodes because of this :icon_lol:

PossibleOne 12-11-2016 04:24 PM

There ya go my man. Good job. Yea PITA to access but whats done is done. And if its gone I think you are in good shape.


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