No, it reads the coolant temp, and your coolant IS taking the heat from the cylinders HOWEVER it is getting pumped through TOO fast and the radiator doesnt have time too cool it. Essentially your cooling system is pumping HOT coolant through your engine to try to cool it. Think of it like pouring boiling water on a burn to try and make it feel better. Not going to work.

Your thermostat does slow the coolant down yes, but it is so the radiator has more time to cool the coolant.

 

I assume it looks like this? this is what you should see with the thermostat removed, excluding the corrosion. if you do not see that hole and see a loop you have a thermostat.

FYI do not burn yourself on the radiator. if you must touch it with your hand use the back.

A new thermostat should be 35-40 from the dealer/online. most automotive thermostats cost 10 dollars, motorcycles just have awesome mark up.

tds94probe is on the money

 

Thats some nice corrosion you got goin there. Maybe some time for som "ER Cooling System Cleaner".

ER Cooling System Cleaner and Rust Remover

 

Yeah, I definitely don't have a thermostat. I knew it right when I went to the cooling system chapter in the Clymer and saw a picture. I knew something was up, because I had taken that cover off before winter and made a notice as to how the port was with the sensor above it exposed.

The thing that is still confusing me though, is I am going on 4 years of owning this bike. This heat problem didn't occur until two summers ago, this time of year. No work was done to the bike that would have required removal of the thermostat housing before then. Or even after then, until I did remove it this past winter. How would something like that just develop? I really don't even care. All I care is, I know I need a thermostat, and I truly truly hope it fixes my overheating.

I haven't quite hit redline with it, and I change the oil a few miles before recommended, so I am hoping my engine is still alright. I basically would ride it when I knew it wasn't a long ride, or when I knew I was gonna be on the highway. I wouldn't overheat at highway speeds. Or should I not run it without a thermostat?

Thanks for the help, I am really glad I came across this, and will hopefully solve my problem.

And also- Is a thermostat the sort of thing you could buy used and still be alright, or should I go with a new one?

 

Buy a new one, they are not expensive. Do the radiator test once you get the thermostat in, checking the fins making sure they are all heating up. Worst case scenario your waterpump is weak, but worry about that bridge when the time comes. Get the thermostat in there first and confirm that the radiator isn't plugged.

 

Ok, just ordered one from the dealer. 51 bucks. There is one on ebay now for 14 with 10 dollar shipping. I almost did that, but figured a brand new one at double the price would be worth it.

Isn't the water pump driven off something else? I don't get it. How does it get weak? You mean if the water pump is hard to turn by hand? Mine was a little notchy, but I could turn it easily enough. Sorta felt like turning an electric motor. That a bad sign?

And will I be causing any further harm to my bike by riding it until I get the thermostat? Even if I don't let it heat to redline? Just short trips ~ 20 mins.

nice bike btw, just saw the video.

 

I don't know enough about the oilpump - but from the diagram, the 2 are connected by a shaft, and the oilpump is chain driven off a gear behind the clutch.

I would assume the oilpump needs to be turning at all times the motor is running, so I can't see how you could turn the waterpump, unless the gear drive off the oilpump is turning the input shaft of the trans as well?

time to dig thru the schematics.......

 

No as long as youre not overheating it constantly you should be fine.

The waterpump is mechanical driven pump, if your cooling system has rusted internally at all, it will corrode the fins in the pump making them not produce enough flow to push the coolant properly. This is also an easy check, you say you turned your waterpump by hand? How did the impeller look? Also when you top up your coolant and do the throttle blip the coolant level should drop signifigantly from the waterpump pulling the coolant into the engine.

Get that thermostat in there, and make sure you top up your coolant PROPERLY,and I stress properly so there arnt any air pockets in the system because this will make you overheat also.

 

The impeller looked good still. It was smooth metal with a few cow like darker spots on the fins. And ya, When I say I spin it, I mean I have the whole assembly off (shaft out of bike) then open it up and spin it. Is it going bad if it turns sort of rough/notchy? It feels like turning an electric motor.

And don't worry. Last summer I read how to fill your coolant the right way.

Well, there has to be a reason there is automotive and motorcycle coolant. I hope it's not because of money. Can anyone explain the different between the two? Will I be alright running automotive? I think one bottle I saw said safe for motorcycles. Anything that is safe on aluminum alright?

 

talking out of my *** here but...

a copper radiator is a copper radiator, excluding insanely cheap and insanely expensive.

advances in internal combustion design should be implemented, everyone wants more efficiency, more power, less weight, less material, why not apply the same advances in motorcycles and cars?


Manual (clymer) has some comment about glycol vs alcohol or some thing. look that up and follow it.