Vac/Fuel Issue-Bogging Down, then Running Rich
#1
04-20-2010, 04:23 PM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Louisville, KY. USA
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Vac/Fuel Issue-Bogging Down, then Running Rich
Hi, I'm new to this site, so, I hope I posted this in the right section, if not, mods, please forgive me.
Issues-
1-Start button will not work. It drains power when you press it, and I can hear something spinning real fast when I press it, however, the bike will not turn over or anything. To get started, I have to roll start the bike.
2-Every time I'm going through a corner, and I pull in the brake and clutch levers, the bike will die. Every time I come to a stop, the bike dies.
3-The bike WILL NOT IDLE. I have to keep my idle set at about 2500 or so for the bike to stay on long enough for me to go from a stop, and even then, it just determines that it doesn't like life, and is going to die anyways.
4-My petcock was leaking really bad, so, we bypassed it and it ran fine. I took the petcock apart, cleaned it, and put it back together, and I've still got the same issue. It's not leaking no where near as bad, but, the bike feels like it's not getting enough fuel, and then, out of no where, it's like it's getting to much fuel, and I blow flames out of my exhaust.
5-I've got a whole bunch of vac lines that are just randomly unhooked, and no matter how I look at it, I can't seem to find which lines go where (I have consulted the FSM and looked at the vac. diagram, but it's not very helpful)
6-Someone knocked my bike over, and after doing that, 1st gear is almost impossible to move on. (Remember, I have to roll start the bike), before hand, I couldn't tell a difference between being in first with the clutch in, or being in neutral with the clutch out. Now, I can't even move the bike in first. I've tightend the clutch cable, and it was a no go, so, IDK what's going on with that.
7-My headlight/corner signals only work when the bike is actually on and running, I don't think that's right. lol
Sorry for such a long post. I've got a lot of issues I'm trying to work out. Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this, and help.
-Johnathan
Issues-
1-Start button will not work. It drains power when you press it, and I can hear something spinning real fast when I press it, however, the bike will not turn over or anything. To get started, I have to roll start the bike.
2-Every time I'm going through a corner, and I pull in the brake and clutch levers, the bike will die. Every time I come to a stop, the bike dies.
3-The bike WILL NOT IDLE. I have to keep my idle set at about 2500 or so for the bike to stay on long enough for me to go from a stop, and even then, it just determines that it doesn't like life, and is going to die anyways.
4-My petcock was leaking really bad, so, we bypassed it and it ran fine. I took the petcock apart, cleaned it, and put it back together, and I've still got the same issue. It's not leaking no where near as bad, but, the bike feels like it's not getting enough fuel, and then, out of no where, it's like it's getting to much fuel, and I blow flames out of my exhaust.
5-I've got a whole bunch of vac lines that are just randomly unhooked, and no matter how I look at it, I can't seem to find which lines go where (I have consulted the FSM and looked at the vac. diagram, but it's not very helpful)
6-Someone knocked my bike over, and after doing that, 1st gear is almost impossible to move on. (Remember, I have to roll start the bike), before hand, I couldn't tell a difference between being in first with the clutch in, or being in neutral with the clutch out. Now, I can't even move the bike in first. I've tightend the clutch cable, and it was a no go, so, IDK what's going on with that.
7-My headlight/corner signals only work when the bike is actually on and running, I don't think that's right. lol
Sorry for such a long post. I've got a lot of issues I'm trying to work out. Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this, and help.
-Johnathan
#2
04-20-2010, 04:30 PM
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#3
04-20-2010, 07:37 PM
1. This is probably the sound of your starter motor spinning freely with no connection to the engine. It sounds like something spinning very quickly, right? In that case, you need a new starter clutch. Not great but not the end of the world.
2 and 3 are the same problem. First step with any idling problem, have you cleaned your carbs? Look up the sticky on how to do that first. If you still have problems, it could be a vacuum leak. Spray WD-40 around your carbs as the bike is running, if you notice a jump in RPM, it's sucking in air somewhere. The flames sound like a lean mixture rather than rich, so I'd also make sure your fuel mixture screws on your carbs are set correctly. Stock settings is 2 1/8 turns out for non-CA bikes and 2 3/8 turns out for CA bikes.
4. Your petcock may be functioning properly. The floats in your carbs should keep the engine from receiving too much fuel. Clean your carbs.
5. Be careful with terminology here. There should be only one vacuum line on the F2, which goes from the petcock to the 1st cylinder (all the way to the left while sitting on it). The rest are breather hoses. If you have a California bike (check the left subframe for a PAIR sticker) then those extra hoses are the PAIR system. On my bike, my carbs have two breather hoses, a bigger main hose that connects to a plastic box, a fuel line, and a vacuum line.
If your vacuum line is not connected to your petcock, cut the line short and block it with a screw (from the engine's end). It is introducing air into your engine and creating a lean fuel/air mixture.
6. It is normal for there to be a bit of drag when the bike is cold, in gear, with the clutch pulled in, because your clutch is immersed in oil. If the bike is warm and you have the same problem, then your transmission may need some work. The fact that you get resistance doesn't seem like a gear issue, however, more likely a clutch issue or a brake that's dragging.
7. Lights that don't come on can be indicative of an improperly grounded wire. Do they come on if you keep the clutch pulled in?
2 and 3 are the same problem. First step with any idling problem, have you cleaned your carbs? Look up the sticky on how to do that first. If you still have problems, it could be a vacuum leak. Spray WD-40 around your carbs as the bike is running, if you notice a jump in RPM, it's sucking in air somewhere. The flames sound like a lean mixture rather than rich, so I'd also make sure your fuel mixture screws on your carbs are set correctly. Stock settings is 2 1/8 turns out for non-CA bikes and 2 3/8 turns out for CA bikes.
4. Your petcock may be functioning properly. The floats in your carbs should keep the engine from receiving too much fuel. Clean your carbs.
5. Be careful with terminology here. There should be only one vacuum line on the F2, which goes from the petcock to the 1st cylinder (all the way to the left while sitting on it). The rest are breather hoses. If you have a California bike (check the left subframe for a PAIR sticker) then those extra hoses are the PAIR system. On my bike, my carbs have two breather hoses, a bigger main hose that connects to a plastic box, a fuel line, and a vacuum line.
If your vacuum line is not connected to your petcock, cut the line short and block it with a screw (from the engine's end). It is introducing air into your engine and creating a lean fuel/air mixture.
6. It is normal for there to be a bit of drag when the bike is cold, in gear, with the clutch pulled in, because your clutch is immersed in oil. If the bike is warm and you have the same problem, then your transmission may need some work. The fact that you get resistance doesn't seem like a gear issue, however, more likely a clutch issue or a brake that's dragging.
7. Lights that don't come on can be indicative of an improperly grounded wire. Do they come on if you keep the clutch pulled in?
Last edited by FuzzyWuzzyBear; 04-20-2010 at 07:46 PM.
#4
04-20-2010, 11:33 PM
Join Date: Apr 2010
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Dear FuzzyWuzzy, I love you (no homo).
1-Yes, when I press the start button, I hear a really quick spinning sound, but that's it. It's like it's not grabbing the flywheel or the gears in the starter aren't grabbing.
2/3-Yes, I've cleaned the carbs, but, not by taking them completely apart like the sticky did. I got the bike running, and sprayed carb cleaner in there. The velocity stacks are a bright shiny silver color, and the top's of the carbs are really clean, so I didn't think taking them apart was necessary? Should I do it anyways?
4-How would the petcock function properly if I'm leaking fuel out of it? Plus, there's this big rubber square gasket thing in it that looks like it's preventing the thing from getting fuel anyways, should I remove it? I can take pics of this if you'd like.
5-There's a vac line from the first carb, to the petcock. there are a couple of vac. lines in between my number 2 and number 3 carbs, and I have no idea what they go to. lol
6-The clutch act's like this regardless of temp. If it's cold, it's actually a bit easier to get the bike to roll. It didn't start happening until my bike feel over the other day. (it's been lowered, but the kick stand hasn't been modified, so, it pretty much sits straight up in the air)
7-The lights don't come on at all, whether the clutch is in or not. The only time they come on is if the bike is running. However, I've determined that's because my battery is loosing charge at the moment.
1-Yes, when I press the start button, I hear a really quick spinning sound, but that's it. It's like it's not grabbing the flywheel or the gears in the starter aren't grabbing.
2/3-Yes, I've cleaned the carbs, but, not by taking them completely apart like the sticky did. I got the bike running, and sprayed carb cleaner in there. The velocity stacks are a bright shiny silver color, and the top's of the carbs are really clean, so I didn't think taking them apart was necessary? Should I do it anyways?
4-How would the petcock function properly if I'm leaking fuel out of it? Plus, there's this big rubber square gasket thing in it that looks like it's preventing the thing from getting fuel anyways, should I remove it? I can take pics of this if you'd like.
5-There's a vac line from the first carb, to the petcock. there are a couple of vac. lines in between my number 2 and number 3 carbs, and I have no idea what they go to. lol
6-The clutch act's like this regardless of temp. If it's cold, it's actually a bit easier to get the bike to roll. It didn't start happening until my bike feel over the other day. (it's been lowered, but the kick stand hasn't been modified, so, it pretty much sits straight up in the air)
7-The lights don't come on at all, whether the clutch is in or not. The only time they come on is if the bike is running. However, I've determined that's because my battery is loosing charge at the moment.
#5
04-21-2010, 01:12 AM
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The outside of the carbs is in no way a visual indicator to their quality. Time to get in there and check it out!
Regulator/Recitifier would cause a lot of these issues you are having actually. if the voltage kept getting wonky all over the place the bike would lose spark and barely run, then get a strong sparka nd use that excess gas. It would also cause idleing problems as the voltage drops to it's lowest point there. Get the battery checked as well at a local shop for free!
Regulator/Recitifier would cause a lot of these issues you are having actually. if the voltage kept getting wonky all over the place the bike would lose spark and barely run, then get a strong sparka nd use that excess gas. It would also cause idleing problems as the voltage drops to it's lowest point there. Get the battery checked as well at a local shop for free!
#6
04-21-2010, 01:20 AM
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#7
04-21-2010, 03:58 PM
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#8
04-21-2010, 10:49 PM
Ya. I run a 06 GSXR 750 regulator. The key is that is has to have a single plug to work perfectly and match up with the F2 wiring harness. Some GSXR R/R's have two. Apparently someone got it to work, but it's almost effortless if you buy the 5-wire regulator with a single plug.
+1 on jnicola's thought. How's your battery doing? Quick voltage check for us, eh? If the battery's dead and the R/R is on the way out, the bike will not idle. It has no way to supply energy to its own ignition system near idle, and a completely poofed regulator won't do anything at all, and you'll be stranded.
I just went through this exact same thing.... I run a walmart cheapie for 45 bucks. Good so far...
1.) regulator dies
2.) kills battery/fails to charge battery
3.) Battery slowly dies or loses charge powering lights and ignition system
4.) I get stranded 30 miles from my house and have to trailer it home
Observe the sticky on this forum about "R/R problem solved" or whatever. It's all you need to know.
+1 on jnicola's thought. How's your battery doing? Quick voltage check for us, eh? If the battery's dead and the R/R is on the way out, the bike will not idle. It has no way to supply energy to its own ignition system near idle, and a completely poofed regulator won't do anything at all, and you'll be stranded.
I just went through this exact same thing.... I run a walmart cheapie for 45 bucks. Good so far...1.) regulator dies
2.) kills battery/fails to charge battery
3.) Battery slowly dies or loses charge powering lights and ignition system
4.) I get stranded 30 miles from my house and have to trailer it home
Observe the sticky on this forum about "R/R problem solved" or whatever. It's all you need to know.
Last edited by JimmyHoffa; 04-21-2010 at 10:52 PM.
#9
04-21-2010, 10:56 PM
I have also been through the tranny on these bikes... and I donno what to say about your 1st gear sticking after a drop. Are you sure you didn't just notice how easy it rolled when it was warm before? The cold stick mentioned above is very real. I have a dirt bike, a quad and this streetbike, plus many more wet clutch items in the family, and ALL of them do it. Very normal. The metal plates get stuck to the cork frictions plates when they sit there compressed to each other in a bath of oil. You know how if your cold glass of water condensates on a hard table how it kinda suction-cups itself to the table just because of the water? It's like that. Kinda... 
#10
04-21-2010, 11:17 PM
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Ya. I run a 06 GSXR 750 regulator. The key is that is has to have a single plug to work perfectly and match up with the F2 wiring harness. Some GSXR R/R's have two. Apparently someone got it to work, but it's almost effortless if you buy the 5-wire regulator with a single plug.
+1 on jnicola's thought. How's your battery doing? Quick voltage check for us, eh? If the battery's dead and the R/R is on the way out, the bike will not idle. It has no way to supply energy to its own ignition system near idle, and a completely poofed regulator won't do anything at all, and you'll be stranded. I just went through this exact same thing.... I run a walmart cheapie for 45 bucks. Good so far...
1.) regulator dies
2.) kills battery/fails to charge battery
3.) Battery slowly dies or loses charge powering lights and ignition system
4.) I get stranded 30 miles from my house and have to trailer it home
Observe the sticky on this forum about "R/R problem solved" or whatever. It's all you need to know.
+1 on jnicola's thought. How's your battery doing? Quick voltage check for us, eh? If the battery's dead and the R/R is on the way out, the bike will not idle. It has no way to supply energy to its own ignition system near idle, and a completely poofed regulator won't do anything at all, and you'll be stranded.
I just went through this exact same thing.... I run a walmart cheapie for 45 bucks. Good so far...1.) regulator dies
2.) kills battery/fails to charge battery
3.) Battery slowly dies or loses charge powering lights and ignition system
4.) I get stranded 30 miles from my house and have to trailer it home
Observe the sticky on this forum about "R/R problem solved" or whatever. It's all you need to know.
That sucks that you got stranded. My bike also failed about 15 miles from my house, and I had to walk it all the way back. Most uncomfortable walk EVER.
But yeah, I'm thinking that's what's going on. The battery won't maintain a charge, and my idle jumps everywhere. I'm guessing that's a mix of vac leak/bad R/R?