Personally, since you have the plastics off, I would try to locate the source of the oil leaks myself first, just to ensure I dont get taken for a ride so to speak. Go ahead and order a valve cover gasket that will take care of them from the valve cover and its a good idea to have it when you check the valves or have them checked anyway. Look around the oil cooler also, between the down tubes and block. There are orings there. I have full confidence you can do it yourself.Checking your valve clearance only tools you would need is a cheap socket set, and appropriate feeler gauges. can be had at any auto parts store for under 30 bucks. Time, thats something only you can judge whether its worth it or not.
Basically it boils down to what you think your time is worth. My time is very valuable, but then again, I also dont trust other people wrenching on anything I have. I am also an auto mechanic so perhaps it comes easier to me. But you will gain the added satisfaction of doing it yourself, and learn alot in the process.
As far as it sitting all winter, this is seriously something you can accomplish in a weekend max. Now if you have to change valve shims, that would take longer and may be better asking the neighbor to help you, maybe he would be more willing, get it done quicker, and not charge too much

 

yeah, the shims get me questioning my abilities. I used to check valves on my 65 Superhawk, tune the carbs, etc..that was easy compared to this thing.

I felt all around the casings and could not find the source. I did notice the one place up on the manifold at #3 and a bit under the oil filter, i tightened that again.

There are a number of spots where old black oil is built up. Does it do any harm to go around an tighten all the bots i can reach to be sure nothing has slipped loose?

This place APE seems to have all the parts I'll need.

My time is worth quite a bit as well since I'm a one person company who works long hours, so wrenching a bike on the weekends is both fun and something I want to avoid. but I can see the value in doing it

So, you agree it more than likely has something to do with the valves rather than rings?

thanks
David

 

I lowered piston #3 all the way and pumped MMO into the cylinder to fill it. It came out the open oil plug but also out near the manifold where the pipe connects. There's a small hole below the pipe.

any idea what this means?

i guess I'll repeat the process on all of them. My neighbor refuses to think its a valve adjustment problem. He says we would know if it was the valves by either popping or ticking. He says the valve cover gasket me be an issue. I'm thinking he may not want to get involved. kept telling me to pump MMO into the cylinders to free up the oil rings

I'm not a mechanic so I have to do one thing and then ask what the result means. I'm going to order the gasket

 

it doesnt hurt to check all the bolts for tightening. Just try n ot to overtighten them which is easy.

The small hole you mention confuses me, if possible try to snap a pic for us.

you may not feel the leaks, unfortunately, but you should be able to see them, there will be spots of old dried up oil and places that still look wet, no matter how dark. Mine was leaking around the valve cover bolts, they have their own rubber gasket thingy.
Only reason I even mentioned the valve cover is because where the plug goes leaks, on cars and bikes, and cause oil to seep down through the threads and foul the plug, and in bad cases cause smoking. I always start with easy then work to complicated/expensive.
You may or may not hear a valve ticking. On my last f2 I had two valves too tight and three that were too loose and never heard anything. Just stumbled across them as I was doing winter storage maintenance. But, although time consuming, is free and rather uncomplicated which is why I suggested it.
You have experience with other bikes, ultimately an engine is an engine, no matter the cylinders or fuel delivery. As long as you research and what not you will be ok.
I don't like to exclude any possibility until I have verified it is not an issue. Plus in my experience, problems are usually solved with the simplest and most overlooked remedy.

No worries about not being a mechanic, honestly anyone can turn a wrench. Asking questions is good. Make a plan, there are things to check and you can knock a few out at once, you know? You ordered the gasket, cool, now since you have the valve cover off to change the gasket, check the valves, if they are good great! you have a fresh gasket so no leaks from there. that eliminates valves, oil leaks from the gasket and oil leaking down into the plugs. all for about 15 bucks
when ordering parts, shop around and pay attention to shipping charges. thats where they get ya. May be worth paying an extra dollar or two at company y to keep from getting the high shipping from company x.
Youll get it fixed, sooner then you think.

 

hoping you can see this, it's a small file. it runs through to the plug screw but also flows out of this small weep hole

 

Has it always leaked there or just since you filled the cylinder with oil? You didnt try turning it over with the cylinder full right? I'm not sure how it comes out through there, but like anything in nature oil will take the path of least resistance. If it just did it when you filled the cylinder, keep it in mind, but dont focus too much on it at the moment.


Edit: did a quick search on it and found this https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f2...t-hole-146047/ and this https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-9...n-know-114262/

appears to be a drain hole. No worries

 

I thought there was a drain hole that went from the spark plug hole to the exhaust. Probably, just in case your spark plug wire cap accidently lets rain etc down in with the plug. I guess your valve cover gasket could be leaking in there, then drain thru the hole on to your exhaust.

 

AHA I think you both are right. Looks like I'll need a torque wrench too. I'm sold on taking the valve cover off now.

Thanks so much

 

Very welcome, let us know what ya find

 

Honda want $60 for that part. any suggestions for online? APE does not have parts available

Also, i found a link discussing a breather line that was clogged, causing a similar problem. the guy cleared the line and the oil leakage disappeared, smoke gone. Apparently the blocked breather was causing a oil to be pushed into the plug area...

i can't find this discussion anymore, wondering if this would apply to this motor