This is a fun one

So my girlfriends F2 has a friend R/R now. Not just gone bad and under delivering voltage, flat out FRIED. The middle yellow connector in the plastic plug literally friend and cooked plastic all around it, and we had to yank the connector out of the R/R it was so fried and out of shape. It is TOAST, as in literally burnt to a black finish! Given that it's a fairly recent aftermarket unit, I have reason to question whether or not it was the R/R that failed, or the stator.

Anyways, initial tests were as follows:

1- Test R/R for continuity itself and not being shorted. Everything had correct ohm readings, and no shorts...except of course the middle yellow connector that showed nothing. Completely burnt out yellow 2. Possible R/R failure, possibly burnt out by stator?

2- Checked all wires in the connector. None of the stator legs connect to ground, all have impedance inside of specifications.

3- Leak check shows no leak while R/R is unplugged. When R/R is plugged in the bike has 2.8amp leak, pretty significant, definitely sign of a blown R/R


Anyways, the final remaining check is to run the bike on just the battery without the R/R hooked up, and check the voltage A/C being received from the stator. I forget what voltage i should be looking for. Some one hook it up.



Pictures to come by the way!

 

I'm not seeing it in the service manual.

I found for the Charging System Inspection at the relay:
Regulated Voltage: 13.0-15.5V/5,000 min (rpm)
Charging current: 1A MAX/5,000 min (rpm)

The yellow on the Rectifier should be 0.1-1.0 ohms (20 degrees C/68 degrees F)
Charging Coil Inspection states that the Yellow and Yellow for the Alternator 3( connector should be 0.1-1.0 ohms (20 degrees C/68 degrees F) and there should be no continuity from Yellow to ground.

 

idk but my stator was the same, burnt black and kinda melted the connectors, swapped the r/r for 15 bucks or something and its worked ever since. Why not just throw it in when the parts cheap?

 

I conducted all of those tests minus the regulated voltage, as I know the R/R is fried. There has to be a way to ready the voltage AC from the Stator. I'm going to do some more experimenting. I'm also going to try and dig up a GSXR stator!

 

Okay, for checking the stator:

Hook a car battery up to your bike, since the bike battery won't be enough to run the bike for a while on it's own. Unplug the Regulator Rectifier.

You'll awnt to measure volts AC, and you'll want to measure between the yellow (stator) lines. Measure them on at a time to check the voltage between all of them. You'll want to check volts AC between all of them at givenRPM's. Check the volts AC at idle, then at 3500 or so (3000 to 400o is fine) and then check in at 7000 or so RPM.

You SHOULD be getting very very similiar volts AC between all of the legs at a given RPM. You should be seeing around 60volts ac at 7000 rpm, but the actual number delivered is somewhat less important than having all of the stator legs delivering similiar voltages.

Be sure to check continuity between stator leg and ground, if there is a measurable amount of resistance, you've got a grounded out stator leg, and thus a faulty stator probably.


At this point, you will have trouble shot the Stator. You can tell if one leg of the stator is under delivering voltage, or you can tell if you have a leg shorted, and if you actually need to work with the stator or not.


It's all pretty easy to check with even a cheap-o harbor freight multi-meter.