*sigh* so it finally gave in...
#1
*sigh* so it finally gave in...
Just came back home from a little trip... `91 CBR F2 with 105 tkm on the clock, when I started the bike after sitting for about a minute after some 3km:s of riding, I noticed a new sound that hasn`t been there before. It sounds EXACTLY like a loose chain jumping over something, like a rattle. Goes away right above say 2000 rpm and comes back after idling for a few seconds. There`s not that many things that`ll cause that, and I know a valve knock when I hear one so I`m leaning heavily on the CCT finally giving out on me... Time to get my fingers black...again...
So how imminent of a threat is it, like am I risking to blow the engine if I keep riding it for this season and deal with it at winter, I`d assume I`m gonna put 5-ish tkm on it this summer, or would it be wiser to ground it right away?
Also another Q: can the tensioner just giving a little slack have effect to the power output or am I just getting used to the bike, I gunned it a couple of times at the trip and it felt a little sluggish...
So how imminent of a threat is it, like am I risking to blow the engine if I keep riding it for this season and deal with it at winter, I`d assume I`m gonna put 5-ish tkm on it this summer, or would it be wiser to ground it right away?
Also another Q: can the tensioner just giving a little slack have effect to the power output or am I just getting used to the bike, I gunned it a couple of times at the trip and it felt a little sluggish...
Last edited by Mattson; 07-09-2013 at 02:30 PM.
#2
Just came back home from a little trip... `91 CBR F2 with 105 tkm on the clock, when I started the bike after sitting for about a minute after some 3km:s of riding, I noticed a new sound that hasn`t been there before. It sounds EXACTLY like a loose chain jumping over something, like a rattle. Goes away right above say 2000 rpm and comes back after idling for a few seconds. There`s not that many things that`ll cause that, and I know a valve knock when I hear one so I`m leaning heavily on the CCT finally giving out on me... Time to get my fingers black...again...
Obviously it's your choice, I'm just saying I personally would not ride it until I dealt with it, especially since the cct replacement is such a simple job... even a caveman could do it!
Slack in the chain affects your cam timing, so this would affect your power output, theoretically.
#3
just change it. as jns puts it, it's very simple to do - either route you go (ape or oem), and it's not terribly expensive
now i don't think it could jump a tooth because it has a guide on top, but if the chain starts to wear or stretch from not having the incorrect tension on it - it could affect timing, which could hurt performance.
now i don't think it could jump a tooth because it has a guide on top, but if the chain starts to wear or stretch from not having the incorrect tension on it - it could affect timing, which could hurt performance.
#4
There's a weekend trip coming at the beginning of august when I'm expecting to put something around 800km:s on her and reeeally wouldn't care to blow the engine specially cause with my luck it WILL go on the longest stretch of a rarely used backwoods road at the same time when my cellphone battery goes flat and it starts to pour water...
Gotta order a new one today so it has time to come before the trip, should probably ask just for giggles what an oem one would cost but since the ape-model seems to go for around 30eur and from what Honda parts cost here Im expecting at least a 1 in front I doubt there's gonna be too much head scratching to do abiut which way to go... I like to think I'm fairly good with wrenching so I think I can manage the swap at some point before the trip...
Gotta order a new one today so it has time to come before the trip, should probably ask just for giggles what an oem one would cost but since the ape-model seems to go for around 30eur and from what Honda parts cost here Im expecting at least a 1 in front I doubt there's gonna be too much head scratching to do abiut which way to go... I like to think I'm fairly good with wrenching so I think I can manage the swap at some point before the trip...
#6
I had a chat about this over a finnish forum and they said it's something like right side fairing off, two bolts and a cover plate out, swap cct, repeat backwards so it's like done and back together before the beers cool? Deffy gonna do before the trip... Thanks guys, I thought it's way worse to do than that!
#7
Interesting... I've browsed the net for a bit this morning and found out that the oem style hydraulic tensioner is actualky cheaper here than the APE screw type, besides I personally xan't understand why on earth anyone wants to convert something that works automagically to something that has to be manually adjusted... Even eBay's not helping cause the part is so cheap that ordering, and paying transport and customs+VAT could prove more expensive besides the orders I've done before from the US normally takes up to three weeks to come through customs all the way home so it probably won't be here in time so it's the oem way for me, gonna order it tonight when I get home.
#8
Interesting... I've browsed the net for a bit this morning and found out that the oem style hydraulic tensioner is actualky cheaper here than the APE screw type, besides I personally xan't understand why on earth anyone wants to convert something that works automagically to something that has to be manually adjusted... Even eBay's not helping cause the part is so cheap that ordering, and paying transport and customs+VAT could prove more expensive besides the orders I've done before from the US normally takes up to three weeks to come through customs all the way home so it probably won't be here in time so it's the oem way for me, gonna order it tonight when I get home.
#9
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