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Possible Clutch Issues

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Old 03-20-2014, 01:12 PM
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Default Possible Clutch Issues

Hey Guys,

New to the forum, looking to pick up some opinions about a new issue I am having with my 94 F2. As some history, I picked up this bike with about 29k miles on it, and it was in rough shape. Previous owner had dropped it and not bothered to repair the things that were damaged from his old drop. This being said, the bike was running fine (although it needs a carb sync).

The bike supposedly has a Stage 1 jetting, replaced sprocket and chain (however I did not really verify this).

Anyway, I have been riding the bike around town with some highway driving without issue. I actually did an oil change with new filter about 200~ miles ago.

The issue is that the on my last ride (about 60 miles, only about 60 degrees out) I went to accelerate while cruising at about 60~ and there was no power in 6th Gear. I tried to downshift and none of my gears had any power. I managed to get off of the highway, and upon killing the bike and starting it back up, while in gear there is no movement in any gear. Additionally, if i release the clutch, with no gas given the bike does not stall out. (As opposed to dropping the clutch with no gas).

So, I am thinking the old owner hadnt replaced the clutch in some time, and it is time for a new clutch to be installed.

What I am looking for (as I am a novice to motorcycles), is some confirmation to what I am thinking.

Does this sound like a clutch issue to you guys? If no, what else would you try and test?

Thanks for all your help.
 
  #2  
Old 03-20-2014, 03:41 PM
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So did I understand correctly, the gear lever moves and you can shift gears but you get no pull whatsoever? By saying you got no power in your gears do you mean like the clutch does not engage or did the bike stall out? First thing to check would probably be to pull the clutch in and let go several times when the engine is not running, and verify that you have good movement in your clutch linkage, look down onto the right side of the engine and you`ll see the lever the clutch cable attaches to, it should move whenever you pull the clutch in and it should also return sharply to it`s original position, if it moves sluggish you either have a clutch issue or the cable is sticking. Is the clutch lever stiff in your opinion, it should have some resistance but not hard to pull, it should also have a few mm:s of free play to ensure the clutch engages properly. Did this happen all at once, has the clutch been slipping before, have you heard any suspicious bangs or other sounds from the engine?

Not much help at this point as so many questions still remain open but we`ll get there eventually

But at 29k miles, if the clutch hasn`t been abused it should still be in good nick, I suspect the issue is elsewhere than the discs, the clutch can fail in various ways but pretty much all of them result in serious slipping rather than not engaging at all. It also MIGHT be a transmission issue, like a snapped shift fork resulting in the gears not engaging but that should cause a bunch of other issues as well...

First check that the lever on the clutch cover has proper movement



This one here, by moving it back and forth with pliers, you have to remove the right side fairing to get to it but since you`ve replaced the oil you already know how, pay attention to how well it returns, also check the movement of the cable. The lever should restrict movement cause there are springs behind it but should also move without sticking and more importantly bounce right back.

Probly won`t solve anything yet but at least we have something to work on, and we`ll also see if the clutch would for some strange reason be stuck open. Report back here after and we`ll see what we can do.
 

Last edited by Mattson; 03-20-2014 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 03-20-2014, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattson
So did I understand correctly, the gear lever moves and you can shift gears but you get no pull whatsoever? By saying you got no power in your gears do you mean like the clutch does not engage or did the bike stall out? First thing to check would probably be to pull the clutch in and let go several times when the engine is not running, and verify that you have good movement in your clutch linkage, look down onto the right side of the engine and you`ll see the lever the clutch cable attaches to, it should move whenever you pull the clutch in and it should also return sharply to it`s original position, if it moves sluggish you either have a clutch issue or the cable is sticking. Is the clutch lever stiff in your opinion, it should have some resistance but not hard to pull, it should also have a few mm:s of free play to ensure the clutch engages properly. Did this happen all at once, has the clutch been slipping before, have you heard any suspicious bangs or other sounds from the engine?

Not much help at this point as so many questions still remain open but we`ll get there eventually

But at 29k miles, if the clutch hasn`t been abused it should still be in good nick, I suspect the issue is elsewhere than the discs, the clutch can fail in various ways but pretty much all of them result in serious slipping rather than not engaging at all. It also MIGHT be a transmission issue, like a snapped shift fork resulting in the gears not engaging but that should cause a bunch of other issues as well...

First check that the lever on the clutch cover has proper movement



This one here, by moving it back and forth with pliers, you have to remove the right side fairing to get to it but since you`ve replaced the oil you already know how, pay attention to how well it returns, also check the movement of the cable. The lever should restrict movement cause there are springs behind it but should also move without sticking and more importantly bounce right back.

Probly won`t solve anything yet but at least we have something to work on, and we`ll also see if the clutch would for some strange reason be stuck open. Report back here after and we`ll see what we can do.
Hey Mattson,

Sorry if my post came across as a bit scrambled, let me try to clarify some more.

For starters, when i pull my cable it is still tight, and it does engage the linkage on the side of the bike. I can verify that it is moving when it is pulled.

When the clutch is pulled in, I can then freely shift between my gears. Down to first, back up to neutral and so on.

When taking the bike from Nuetral to 1st, I can release the clutch and the bike continues to run. As opposed to stalling out. (However, the dashboard does recognize my shifts, my neutral indicator goes out, and if I put the kickstand down it will shut off)

Hope this helps.
 
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:34 AM
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Any chance we do bumps here guys?
 
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Old 04-04-2014, 01:09 AM
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Put it in gear and see if you can roll the bike. It's really hard to diagnose an issue like this without seeing it. In worried maybe you broke your drive shaft seeing as you get no movement at all. If the bike rolls like its in nuetral while in gear I'd check that out. Unless the clutch imploded it should still have some grip.
Another thought is what kind of oil did you use? Automotive oils have additives that are not good for wet clutches at all. It could be that but if there's no grip at all I'd still be leaning more towards mechanical issue not worn parts.
 
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Old 04-04-2014, 01:38 AM
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Dunno man, sounds very odd... so the bike is basically acting like you would not have chain going to the back at all? Very strange and suggests more like an internal transmission failure. You're probly looking at an engine job then, first off you might wanna remove the clutch casing to see if there's anything strange there before pulling the engine out. The clutch doesn't just "go" without serious slipping first. Drain the oil into a clean pan ( gotta do it anyway if you want to get to the clutch) and inspect it for any metal shavings or bits. It sounds like for some reason one or more of your shift forks are not moving inside the engine but that basically should lock the transmission cause wrong cogs are linked... very odd indeed...
 
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Old 04-04-2014, 08:00 AM
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Does sound odd. When checking your clutch, make sure it is disengaging. If its staying engaged, it will give the symptoms your describing (acting like the clutch is always pulled in) not sure why it would be like that with good movement through the lever and cable tho.
 
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Old 04-05-2014, 04:12 AM
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Did you use motorcycle oil when you changed it?
 
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Old 04-10-2014, 11:16 AM
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Hey Guys,

Sorry for the late responses, when the bike went down it went down about 100 miles from my house, and I was hoping to get over there and play with the clutch cable etc a bit more but I havent been able to. As far as it rolling while in gear, ill have to wait to get an answer for that.

And when i changed the oil/filter I used a guide a found here on the forums, it redirected to someones 900 RR, (I cannot find link), But I believe the oil I used was "Shell Rotella T 5W-40 Synthetic" I have the bottle at home, and I can check then or even upload a photo. I also put in a purolator filter.

Im hoping that Monday I can go over to the bike and test it out some more and answer the question about the clutch movement while in gear.

Thanks again guys.
 
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:40 AM
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Update!

So, I got some time to head over on a day off to play with the CBR. First thing I checked was the tension on the clutch cable, when pulling it it, the whole assembly was moving. I followed the cable up to the handle and sure enough, something simple I overlooked. The Circle Lock Tube that holds the clutch in place, and adjusts its tightness had come loose. After tightening it back up, the bike went into gear and moved forward properly

Sadly, the story doesnt end there.

I guess between sitting for almost two months, (And being knocked over, thanks jerk who knocks over bikes), and being rained on it has a serious lack of power.

In first gear I basically had to walk start to get it moving smoothly, and even still it was pushing close to 8k RPMS to move at 20Mph. In second gear it was pulling easier, but still much to heavy.

Before it went down, a Carb Resync was on the schedule, as well as a full carb teardown and cleaning. In your guys opinion, does it sound like this will fix/help the issue, or is there something else to look for/check.

I know after getting it back on and running again its fuel air **** had been knocked out of place and wasnt set right. I readjusted it to the 1.5k that it normally runs at, but im out of other ideas for quick fixes until i have time to tear it down fully.

Thanks.
 

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