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Oil light stays on, stutter from 5-8k

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  #11  
Old 10-23-2012, 02:13 AM
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Gotta do some testing tomorrow after I pick up a new multimeter, but I'm having a sneaky suspicion that the problem lies in my ignition control module. Bummer if that's the case, but it's just time and money right?

I've got a few tests in mind to run... If I've got the tank off (fairings are already off) I might as well check continuity between the pulse generator and ICM, et al.

On another note, why does every post I make have to be approved by the moderator, and I can't view pictures uploaded as attachments? Does that go away after x amount of posts?

Edit: I guess 5 is the magic number. Looks like I'm going to test the ICM, the primary coil resistance(s) and the ignition pulse generator tomorrow. I don't have a timing light handy so I won't be able to check that... But who knows, could find something out of range right off the bat. And you're right, the sidestand switch has a common ground with the up and down position, so it should be as simple as connecting the "up" wire (G/W) to ground (Grn). Easy as pie.
 

Last edited by brevity; 10-23-2012 at 02:32 AM. Reason: I'm a dummy.
  #12  
Old 10-23-2012, 09:46 AM
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brevity, I'm glad that bike has gotten into competent hands, and you're going to get it working... I was planning on maybe picking it up, but then again, now I'm not sure if that's the same one, as I think the one I was looking at was only $800... at any rate, good luck getting that one sorted out!!

Get us some pics, so we can see what you're workin' with!
 
  #13  
Old 10-24-2012, 12:12 AM
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Well, like I said the guy wanted a low price, but then was actually asking 1500 after he decided to keep it and put it back together and had some more money tied up into it.

Question! Everything tested fine in my ignition system with the exception of one of the coils... primary resistance was something like half again what it should have been... Thinking maybe a bad coil? Also I REALLY need a set of clipons. The ones that came on it are some cheap made in china crap and they're downright dangerous.
 
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:25 PM
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I think I've boiled it down to a bad R/R. I pulled off the plus and one of the yellow wires was crispy and fell out of the plug

I tested it and wasn't seeing the values I should have. This would cause poor running conditions at normal operating temperature, yes? Also, my battery was dead yesterday and wasn't charging like it should have. The stator side tests fine. I'm looking at throwing on a 2004 GSX-R1000 R/R but it seems a bit spendy. More ordering parts and waiting I guess
 
  #15  
Old 10-26-2012, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by brevity
I think I've boiled it down to a bad R/R. I pulled off the plus and one of the yellow wires was crispy and fell out of the plug

I tested it and wasn't seeing the values I should have. This would cause poor running conditions at normal operating temperature, yes? Also, my battery was dead yesterday and wasn't charging like it should have. The stator side tests fine. I'm looking at throwing on a 2004 GSX-R1000 R/R but it seems a bit spendy. More ordering parts and waiting I guess
What do you consider "spendy"? I have searched in the past, and found several aftermarket R/R options for the F2, all incorporating cooling fins, to reduce heat - I'm thinking they were all in the $90 to $100 range... google for 'em, they're out there.
 
  #16  
Old 10-30-2012, 01:39 PM
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the $100 range is what I consider spendy, but I'm also a big fan of doing it right the first time. I had a couple R/R's laying around and tried one out... everything is charging fine now.

But as I went for a long ride yesterday, I noticed the problems again.... Only now, to be concise, it runs like a scalded dog at about 1/2 to full throttle, but glugs along under that. RPM is irrelevant (tach is acting up again anyway, I think it is a mechanical issue with the needle itself). This makes me think that, since I didn't inspect the petcock strainer when I put the tank on and just looked inside the tank, crud has gotten past the screen and plugged up some jets. Ran some seafoam through with no effect, so I have to pull the carbs and make sure every jet and passage is squeaky clean. Ho-hum.
 
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:54 PM
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Carbs have been pulled and cleaned, every little nook and cranny. I did a bench sync and set my pilot screws to 3 turns out... Needles all had 1 shim and main jets are 132.5 (not sure what stock is) so previous owner(s) apparently accommodated for the K&N and two brothers exhaust. My bench sync appears to be WAY off so I'm gonna basically close the butterflies and start over.

I was coming down an off ramp a couple days ago, too fast... whoops (finally got in my front axle spacer in the mail so i can hook up the speedo drive gear and tell how fast I'm going ). Low-sided and took out one of the reflector post things with my exhaust header. Basically crushed it right at the midpipe. So now I've got to chop that and re-weld. While I'm at it I'll go ahead and chop down my two brothers can (HUGE!) and see what my options are... I'm thinking a super short muffler exiting just in front of the swinger.

I really need to get some pics for y'all . In other news the R/R is doing fine. I'm accepting any and all parts donations anybody wants to throw out my way. I'll cover shipping! You know you've got parts laying around your garage... I've got plenty to trade!
 
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:17 PM
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Oh, and I swapped out the oil pressure sensor (on the right side, right behind/under the jugs) with the one from my spare motor... oil light issue resolved!

Edit: also I'm coming to a couple of conclusions about my poor running condition... Namely, there are no "snorkels" on the air box making it have a bit of a ram air effect. I'm going to route the carb vent tubes into the bottom of the air box to fix this... and hopefully find some intake snorkels. Secondly, my carbs were fairly clean (not enough gunk to cause these problems, anyway) which points me back to problem 1.
 

Last edited by brevity; 11-02-2012 at 10:11 PM. Reason: update
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