My bad- not only do I not know how to read them, but I don't know what i'm even supposed to be looking at. I think I got what you're talking about though. Here's another flash and no flash picture of the very tips. The color is probably a little off from the camera but I think they look dark/tan. What do you guys think? I really want to get my bike running like it does when it's cool, but I don't want to pay for the dyno.

Thanks again.

 

Yeah, pretty dark so they are rich!

 

Well here's a chart to help you:

 

To me, it looks like carbon deposits. Which according to that incredibly useful chart, it could be too rich. Should I try the D shaped screws or the highspeed one? And you tighten to lean, right?

Thanks a lot for the help, i'll see how it runs tomorrow after I make those changes.

 

JesseAwesome is right. Adjusting those only affect the idle mix. To affect mixture under power you have to rejet the bike.

But chances are it's something else to cause it to run rich. Unless you neglected to say you just finished modding the bike to hell. If you haven't just finished tinkering with the bike, adding a full exhaust or non-oem fuel pump, more than likely something in the air system is partially blocked or not connected right. Dirty air filter, blocked passage in the carbs, pinched / clogged / disconnected hose.

Now if you did just finish removing the stock can and going with a straight pipe, we kinda needed to know that

 

I definitely know it has a K and N air filter and a full Muzzy exhaust. I think all else is stock. I cleaned the carbs last summer, but I don't know if it had a jet kit- I'd assume so because of how well it was running. I'm going to check for all hoses and whatnot to be connected and have access to air.

Last fall, I filled my bike with a little bit of deisel while in a rush. (who the hell has the deisel button on the left with two gas buttons next to it?) I replaced my spark plugs after that but never cleaned my carbs. I figured itd be alright because I pretty much just ran my bike until all the deisel gas mixture was out. Then I replaced the spark plugs. Could this have caused much change? I remember my bike feeling like this last summer but maybe not as extreme?

 

How that would make your bike run rich is beyond me...

Also, that is typically a situation in which your bike should be exceptionally lean. A full system with a K+N filter.

I'm guessssssing the following has occured:

The pilot circuit is cranked all the way out, causing it to run rich. It had to be done in order to make the beast start though. It's running rich as **** down there now. If you didn't rejet, you'll then run into a lean environment, which makes it feel cruddy. I'm imagining you know better than to run into high RPMs with the engine cold, so you probably don't notice the problem there.

Rejetting would not only take full advantage of that system, but also eliminate a lot of your low end headache as it comes with new needles and springs.

 

In my opinion those plugs don't indicate an overly rich mixture.
Try some seafoam, or clean the carbs again.

 

Ok, so today I decided to give this tuning thing a go. I tore down my carbs and put it all back together to ride 3 times... lol. I am still not quite satisfied. I have a few basic questions.

How can I tell if I am in need of rejetting or a sync?

I posted a picture of my jets- I don't know if they are stock or not? What do you think?

When you say "rejetting" do you mean tightening and loosening the high and low speed screws? Or am I supposed to have a clip with different positions?

Is tighten leining and loosening richening?

When I read my bike's carbs, should I snap the throttle to the end, or roll it gradually along with my bikes power?

Now, a little more specifically- I am embarrased to say that I literally had screws sitting over those holes in the first picture. Two loose screws just sitting on top of them. I am not sure if this would affect performance, but I would think so. Those holes must need to draw air? The first time I tore it down, I loosened my low end screws about a 1/4 turn. This made me miss or bog (depending on how I am supposed to be using my throttle when tuning) when I rolled on the throttle around 3-4k rpms. So I figured with those loose screws gone in the air filter, I'll put the low speed needles back to my old setting (all the way screwed in). I did that and now it misses in a little bit different way at 3-4k rpms still. It pops a lot when I am coming down from 7k rpms also. When I am on the throttle at 6+ k rpms, it's fine. The only problems are cruising in low gears and low rpms and now when I roll on the throttle in low rpms. My idle is a little goofy too. when it comes down from a rev, it will stop for a few moments at 2k rpms, then want to slowly die down to 1.5k rpms. I don't remember it doing that before.

So, if you're still reading- I have another question. My D shaped screws are all at different positions. What kind of affect can this have if not on the D shaped screws the high or low speed screws also?

Sorry for the lack of format, I just have a lot of questions I had to spew out after a long day of taking apart and putting back together. I just can't rest when I know I can change something about my bike. I still have to take it out tonight to test out my new HID light . I'm debating tearing it down one more time tonight depending on what kind of help I get here lol.

Thanks a lot guys

 

*blink* You know answering all that is more along the lines of writing a book, not a post?

Rejetting means changing the size of the jets (2nd pic, the small part on top). You change those with larger / smaller ones to lean or richen the AF mix. Adjusting the D shaped screw only affects the A/F mix at idle. To adjust the mix under power, you have to rejet and adjust the height of the needles inside the carbs. Without a dyno, doing it yourself, it is a very lengthy and involved process that will have you adjusting and testing and adjusting jet sizes and needle clip positions.

Good news (sorta) is that unless you made a major change in your bike's fuel, air or exhaust systems you shouldn't need to rejet your bike. Bad news is something else is causing the problem and you need to find that