Hey everyone!

So per the advice of a lot of people on here, and that I spoke with in person, I went with a dynojet stage I kit. I put in a K+N filter and the bike came with a micron exhaust (which sounsd rad by the way) and it seemed a bit lackluster. Decelerating from high RPM's resulted in popping in the top end, and there almost appeared to be a flat spot from 6.5k to 8k or so(where your main jets kick it). It still took off good, it was just really lackluster, and didn't seem to match up with the power these bikes are supposed to deliver.

So, with the good help of a friend we installed the dynojet stage I kit, and cleaned the carbs a tiny bit. They were in amazingly good condition, although that secondary filter for the diapram's was pretty much turned into mushy goo from it's original foam state. As far as servicing the stock stuff on the bike we simply replaced that diapghram filter with a nice piece of foam filter and cleaned a few of the jet's and the float bowls.

The kit came with new springs, and recommended you use epoxy to plug one of the holes on the slider. We did that, and while waiting for the epoxy to cure we put in the new jets. I went with the 126's, as it is advised for people running aftermarket exhaust and presumably for the K+n filter as well. Installed that, then put the sliders together with the new jet's, put in the new springs with the diapgrams and reassembled the beat.

The stock carbs had the pilot screw turned out 4 friggen turns for some reason! Anyways with 1.5 turns the bike started up okay, idled fine, and ran pretty good on the pilot jet's. I did experience popping primarily on my low end deceleration (starting at 5.5k and heading downward) but the low end was still as responsive as before the jet kit and pilot screw adjustemnt.

The difference from 6k~ and up is where the difference was night and day. I can only presume that were I to have had access to a dyno, and a stock bike for comparison, you'd see that my bike without the kit and all the parts dipped below stock HP from 6-8k, and then probably rose back up to kind of meet it. The line also wouldn't be very smooth at all, resulting in somewhat iffy power delivery. I would say the bike delivers a good 4-5 hp more over a stock bike, and has an extremly smooth and powerful delivery from 6k all the damn way up to near redline (probably 12k ish or so it starts to flatten out somewhat).

While not a mind blowing gain over stock, the gain from improperly tuned to properly tuned was amazing, and almost like getting on a new bike! The front end now lifts significantly under hard acceleration, and man oh man can this bike get up and go now! The response is also amazingly smooth and predictable, and the change to the springs and needle's in the carbs makes the bike feel amazingly crisp!


Anyways, more on everything later. I may fiddle with the pilot screws a bit more to try and fix the low end popping, I may not. I'll post about the milage change as well, which supposedly is going to be a big difference but we shall see. I was getting 33-38mpg depending on where I was driving and how I was driving. I'm either out ripping around country roads (and getting 38mpg) or I am doing tons of short trips in the city with traffic (and getting 33mpg).

 

I've been knocking the DJ jet kit for a while, but I have to reserve my judgment on it until I run my bike again.

It turns out I had installed the needle shims incorrectly... Their kit comes with 4 needles, 4 clips and 4 shims.

You are supposed to install your existing shim (from your original needle) UNDER the new needle clip, and install the shim included in the DJ kit ABOVE the needle clip.

My bike ran like a bag of **** after I installed the kit, and I recently found out why.

I was building my carbs to go on the bike now that the engine is in, and I discovered that I had placed both shims under the needle clips!

So, beware of that.