Well, i got my new chain and sprocket installed and i drove it around the court and it seemed jerky at take off. Motor doesnt sound like it was the problem. The chain kit is a valar kit. It seemed like it was lubed up but i might relube it and see. Its sticky to the touch. But if you have any idea please let me know....

New chain jerking:

 

Chain details:
Heavy Duty Chains
Quality engineered for strength and durability
Tensile Strength: 7,600 lbs
Material: Alloy Steel
Available in 420, 428, 520, 525 & 530 Pitch
Motorcycle Chain | Motorcycle Chains | Volar Motorsport

 

Is it a 520 or a 530 chain? Is it aligned/adjusted correctly?

New chains can be stiff and without a load on the rear wheel at idle on a stand, they can be a bit jerky. My F2 can do the same thing, especially when it's not fully warmed up. Or when the chain is really loose. How does the bike feel when you ride it?

Also make sure the rear sprocket nuts aren't hitting the rear stands arms. I had that happen once, it jerked a lot and then almost kicked the bike off the stand.

 

Ok, I just checked. I did buy a Volar chain once. Absolutely the worst chain ever. Complete shot in less than 2000 miles. I usually get 15k or more from a chain. So it may just be the chain.

 

That motor doesn't sound right. It could be an exhaust leak or something, but the way the idle falls, it sounds like a misfire...

And chains do jump around like that on a rear stand when you pull in the clutch. It's because there isn't any load on the wheel and it doesn't decelerate the same as the counter-shaft. But in no way should you feel it when you're on the bike riding it. You said that you rode it once with the new chain. Can you go into specifics about what you feel when you ride it? Is it just jerking? When does it do it?


I dig the bobber look with the 1krr seat and that light bar though.



EDIT: I just looked up those Volar chains. Do they not have o-rings in them? If not, they won't last very long. That company has terrible reviews, but I haven't used them, so I don't know one way or the other.

 

I'm with conrice here, no way that engine is running right. Sounds like a V-twin. The sound should be somewhat steady and consistent. I got twin pipes and have a wee bit of idle wobble but no where near that. That is probly what makes the chain jump too. Sort it out and you'll probly gain quite a few HP:s as well. Possibly a shot plug, crossed plug wires, carb issue etc.

Don't have personal experience of volar products but when I once asked about them I didn't get a single good review. So don't expect a very long life of them. The f2 is a bit tricky motor in that regard because if the chain snaps and the end curls up it will not clear the front sprocket if the end is hooked and will break your engine cover I've seen pictures of multiple cases here of bikes that have had this happen.

 

Thanks for the feed back, The carb were rebuilt, I hd to replace the seals for the fueling T's so they were totally apart. The carbs have not been sync'd and no jet kit yet. Exhaust should be have leak as it is one piece.But I have not totally tested it for leaks. My friend that built it is pretty good but he was right when he told me it was too loud. lol. The chain does not have O-rings and I will not be getting anything from them again. As far as the alignment it measures out correctly but I will recheck tomorrow again to make sure. I did not measure after I torqued everything down. As far as the tightness the bottom side of the chain measured about 1-1.25 inch. How much slack is normal?
During take off and when it gets down near idle is when it is jerking around. From all the post it seems like I will not know if its a chain/alignment/chain tightness issue until I get the carbs sync'd and jetted.
Again thanks for the feedback my first ride on it was really short.

 

Yeah, I have a feeling this is want happened to this bike before I got it because when I got the cover off for the sprocket the top section is missing. I only have one bolt in the bottom. I have a feeling I might get one season out of this bike and sale for something else. maybe.

 

At 38 secs of the video was the scary pop sound. This is only at low rpms(idle/take off). I also need to figure out how to get a better tach reading. it claims Im idling at 4-5rpms.

 

At 38 - if you think about what's happening, you'll understand why it jumps violently like that.

The countershaft has slowed down considerably. The rear wheel hasn't. Because there's slack on the chain, that rear wheel is pushing the chain forward to the countershaft sprocket and it's not spinning as fast, so the chain jumps because it's "bunched" up effectively.

There's a few videos of that kind of stuff here where people have asked about it before - it's usually normal.

https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-954rr...-129442/page2/ (look at moosestang's videos)

I didn't see anything in your video that jumped out at me minus the engine misfire. That doesn't mean there's NOT something wrong with the chain, there very well might be considering what kind of chain it is (no o-ring, volar). What size chain did you get? And are you sure you have the correct sprockets? And most importantly, what does the chain feel like when you spin the rear wheel by hand?



And if it's an exhaust leak, I'm saying it's around the head where it meets the header. Does the bike stall out often? With the engine troubles coupled with the not-in-sync carbs, that bike is going to be all kinds of twitchy and jerky on it's own without anything to do with a chain. If you think about what's happening, the carbs are coming off of the idle circuits at different times even though your engine is spinning at the same speed. And because of that minimal exhaust (I can tell it's loud), you'll need to jet it accordingly. I'm pretty sure the stock jets won't suffice even if you have the mixture screws turned way out. I had a slashcut exhaust on my F3 and I had to use the biggest jets that came with the Dynojet kit plus run 3-3.5 turns out on the mixture screws before I felt like it was running correctly.