Originally Posted by Hershey (Post 769940)

So your bike is making a funny sound is it?

The intention of this thread is to clean up the F2 section of the never dying CCT reposts.

Almost all Honda’s have a few common shortcomings in their design, some of these include charging systems and most commonly the Hydraulic Cam Chain Tensioner (commonly referred to as the CCT).

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/5742/hydcct.jpg

This tensioner is actuated by oil pressure, and while it is a great concept it is prone to failure.

The most common evidence of a failing CCT is a prominent rattle or ticking noise coming from the right side of the engine on a cold start (often mistaken for a noisy valve train), and the noise will go away when the engine reaches operating temperature and oil pressure is revived.

A completely seized CCT will always rattle.

In most cases replacing the old CCT with a new OEM hydraulic tensioner will yield unfathomable frustration when you go through the trouble of buying and replacing it - and the damn thing STILL rattles.

The BEST way to cure the problem is to purchase an “APE” manual CCT found on Ebay and other online retailers for about $50-70. You can also try your local dealership, but expect to pay more.

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/3392/apecct.jpg



INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

Step 1: Remove right side tail fairing and right side lower fairing

Step 2: Locate the OEM CCT

Step 3: Remove black engine mount bracket if obstructing access

Step 4: Remove the 2 bolts securing the CCT to the engine

Step 5: If equipped with a steel gasket, clean gasket and save. If a paper gasket is present, scrape off gasket material being careful not to drop any into the opening or damage the gasket surface.

Step 6: Back the tensioner bolt all the way out on your new APE manual CCT, and apply a dab of white lithium grease or assembly lube to the end of the bolt.

Step 7: Install the new CCT and steel gasket or new paper gasket and secure it with the 2 bolts from the OEM CCT.

Step 8: Thread the tensioner bolt in FINGER TIGHT until your fingers cannot turn it any further (never use a wrench for this step)

Step 9: Lock the tensioner with the lock nut

Step 10: With the transmission in neutral and a cold engine, start the bike up

Step 11: If the rattle is present, unlock the lock nut and thread the tensioner clockwise until the noise is gone, then thread clockwise ¼ turn further

Step 11B: If the rattle is no longer present when engine is first started, unlock the lock nut and turn the tensioner counter-clockwise until the noise returns, then thread clockwise until no longer present and ¼ further

Step 12: Lock the lock nut, turn off the bike and put fairings back on.

Originally Posted by jun_cbrf4 (Post 800999)

Originally Posted by jpanside@gmail.com (Post 801516)

tundra nice pics m8

but what is that toggle switch you got there? NOS?! :icon_no: