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Carburetor Cleaning & Tuning 101

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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 07:53 PM
  #111  
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Dissevered, Thank you. I talked to my mechanic today and it turns out he did clean the carbs and the diaphrams are ok. He thinks that the valves need adjusting to fix this. sound reasonable? thanks. Also the resistance is the same on all 4 when manipulated by hand.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 09:40 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by madclammer
Dissevered, Thank you. I talked to my mechanic today and it turns out he did clean the carbs and the diaphrams are ok. He thinks that the valves need adjusting to fix this. sound reasonable? thanks. Also the resistance is the same on all 4 when manipulated by hand.

Let me know how this turns out. I would be really surprised to hear that the valves need adjusted. F2 engines are tanks. I checked my valves at around 48k miles and they were no where near out of spec. Everything in the engine was as if brand new.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 04:07 PM
  #113  
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disevered, If not the valve adjustment then you think it has to be diaphram? ty
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 07:00 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by madclammer
disevered, If not the valve adjustment then you think it has to be diaphram? ty
I don't know... I just thought of the diaphram first because rarely does anything need touched on an F2's engine. not to mention that unless something is completely broke on your valves or pistons, you should still be pulling in plenty of air to move those diaphragms. Just all theory in my head though, like i said, keep me posted.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 08:28 PM
  #115  
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ty. i hope to get some work done thursday or friday and i will post.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:18 PM
  #116  
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Default RE: the manual metod wasn't as good as I thought.

Originally Posted by Dissevered
I don't know much about syncing, only had it done once by a friend... I don't think it would make a huge difference though changing a reference point.

Are you just idling and reving the bike without the airbox or riding? riding it w/o the airbox is bad news and will make a big difference. If not, and you are just idling it, don't even bother testing flat spots w/o riding it and getting it to norm temp.

Did messing with the idle screw fix anything?

BTW i have my needles all with the same clip position. Were any holes drilled into your air box to modify it? If so, I would get some epoxy and seal them up.

Returning the bike to stock or getting it close is always a good option.

I would start with the recommended fuel screw settings and test ride/check spark plugs from there to see if any changes need to be made.
Well,
The manual method got the bike running but it just isn't "right"
Rode it to work and sounded marginal a sputtering but not the major sputtering lurching and gasping Idon't know if it is a miss or what or the best way to describe it or in bike terms that is. if it was a car I would say it sounds like some of the time it isn't running on all cylinders but I have issues moved around bad miss moved up to around 4 k or I call it a miss. It is sputtering some popping on decel. but I don't know how to effectively describe a miss or what a flat spot sounds like.
but after 30 min of riding it really vibrated bad from 4500 to 7k.
I replaced the plugs right before jacking with the carbs so I hope I didn't foul them and thats all.
open to suggestions.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 06:01 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by patmetz
Well,
The manual method got the bike running but it just isn't "right"
Rode it to work and sounded marginal a sputtering but not the major sputtering lurching and gasping Idon't know if it is a miss or what or the best way to describe it or in bike terms that is. if it was a car I would say it sounds like some of the time it isn't running on all cylinders but I have issues moved around bad miss moved up to around 4 k or I call it a miss. It is sputtering some popping on decel. but I don't know how to effectively describe a miss or what a flat spot sounds like.
but after 30 min of riding it really vibrated bad from 4500 to 7k.
I replaced the plugs right before jacking with the carbs so I hope I didn't foul them and thats all.
open to suggestions.
The first adjustment is never quite right... Stock settings don't work unless you are using stock filter and pipe. Those were to just get you started.

Read the link on tuning that I put on the first post. That should help you out.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 06:27 AM
  #118  
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Hey,I think you were right ! last night we moved the diaphrams around from the working ones to the stuck ones and sure enough we got them to open. Then we tried to oil and reseat the other 2 and managed to get one of them working as well. just wierd cause they all look the same. i Guesse i should look for a couple of replacement diaphrams for this. any suggestions on where? again thanks i think you saved me alot of head ache.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 08:20 AM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by madclammer
Hey,I think you were right ! last night we moved the diaphrams around from the working ones to the stuck ones and sure enough we got them to open. Then we tried to oil and reseat the other 2 and managed to get one of them working as well. just wierd cause they all look the same. i Guesse i should look for a couple of replacement diaphrams for this. any suggestions on where? again thanks i think you saved me alot of head ache.
Yeah you could have had them seated wrong too. If they don't seal right between the body and the cover you can have problems as well.

Look at Ebay then a dealer. dealer stuff is pricey. Problem with ebay is that you will probably have to buy a whole set of carbs. Just look around.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 08:55 PM
  #120  
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hey whats up???? i cant seem to get all of my boot screws loose.... at first i thought there was only 4. and i loose those already. but theres 1 above each one and i cant access them at all. any tips .........
 
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