There is a trouble shooting procedure for this in the manual, in the ignition section. If you don't have a manual, I can scan the page and post it here for you. Get a manual if you can. It is worth its weight in carbon fiber goodies. (Gold, too.)

 

okay got me a manual and followed the flowchart, everything was fine til i got to the pulse generator, it isnt reading any ohms at the icm or at the connector in front of the battery box. Hoping this is it!

edit: was looking over it again and when i read continuity across the yellow and yellow/white im reading 480 but its sparatic when im on ohms...... Does this mean its good or what?

 

Could be the ohm scale reads differently than the continuity test. Did you do the tests in the box on page 16-6?

 

well the ohms worked when i checked the coils, but not on the pulse generator but it was reading what it should on continuity...... puzzles me really. I followed all the tests on 16-6 and they were all fine except for what i mentioned earlier.

 

check out this link. good ideas on testing batteries and starters for voltage drop issues.
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/ss_101.htm

Back to your connector in your original post. It should hook up to your f2 harness with a matching 3 prong connector. It should be in the main bundle in front of the battery. Not a major issue, but y'never know.

The burned regulator connector shows that there is a lot of resistance to the current being supplied to charge the battery. Also the ground on the r/r may need some work.

Each of these issues also points at grounding issues. Without solid grounds at all points, voltage will be dropped at these areas. The starter relay in our bikes is like the one I installed in my 72 Beetle to get it to start every time. It's job is to dump big juice to the starter without using the whole wiring harness. The slowness of the starter says it is not all getting there or your starter is bad. But,you also swapped starters with no effect, so wiring harness and grounds are the common issues you are left with.

The other issue is that the bike will start when it is warm. This indicates a possible lean start condition.

At this point, I will assume you have checked your pilot jet settings and choke adjustment. I adjusted my choke cable very precisely, the stock groove on the cable end at the carbs makes my choke not fully on. I had to put it so that the groove was almost half way in the clamp. The cable may have stretched over time. My bike was hard to start in winter until I made the cable adjustment.

It will get sorted out.

 

Well according to that 11v should be plenty to get her to crank, think its time to get a compression tester....

 

Check out this post from Kuroshio. It is about f3 carb cleaning. It is about hard starting, but running fine later. Looks promising

https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f3-17/f3-carb-cleaning-advanced-104852/

.

 

think i found the problem.....

Compression Test Results

Cylinder 1- 30psi
Cylinder 2- 90psi
Cylinder 3- 30psi
Cylinder 4- 0psi/ no reading

None are in spec, now i just gotta find out if its valves or rings..... hoping its valves! Any tricks to figure out if its rings or valves?

 

shoot a little oil in the top end. It will help seal the rings. If the numbers don't rise, then it is valves. No compression in one cylinder, yeeps.

 

yea number 4 has me scared, im gonna look more into it tomorrow