Brake bleeding?
Hi, try applying a bit of heat around the area then undoing it. As per other post drilling out is next option.
+1 on the six point socket or a six point box wrench, you'll most probably are going to have to replace the nipple, they are sold in just about anywhere that sells car or bike parts and costs a dime. Might have to get lock pliers and twist it out, I wouldn't use much heat cause it's so soft metal it's actually possible to melt it, let alone frying the seals or boiling the fluid. Once you're able to nudge it a bit like tapping the wrench with a hammer it usually comes out easily.
Last edited by Mattson; Dec 24, 2013 at 07:19 AM.
Eat your Wheeties! Then give it a go.
But in all seriousness, post a picture of it. That would help to see whether or not it's corroded. I would put a 6 sided (not 12 sided) box end wrench on it. Then I'd find a way to add leverage (probably using a massive nut driver on the end of the wrench) to get it going. Put force on it, but make sure you're extremely controlled and GO SLOW - otherwise, you will for sure round that bleeder nut.
Don't be afraid to walk away from it for a bit if you start to get frustrated.
But in all seriousness, post a picture of it. That would help to see whether or not it's corroded. I would put a 6 sided (not 12 sided) box end wrench on it. Then I'd find a way to add leverage (probably using a massive nut driver on the end of the wrench) to get it going. Put force on it, but make sure you're extremely controlled and GO SLOW - otherwise, you will for sure round that bleeder nut.
Don't be afraid to walk away from it for a bit if you start to get frustrated.
Good tooling is essential, yes to the six point as others said and I`d even try to nip it tighter first, then give it a good whack to undo. It has to move eventually and at some time your gonna have to get serious with it and give it some grief. Worst thing that can happen is the head shear off. Even if that happens, its not the end of the world and can be sorted.
Best of luck mate
Best of luck mate
In case anyone else here has this or a similar issue and will eventually replaced the seized bolt:
Get a sharp center punch tool and dig lightly (and straight) into the stuck, stripped, seized bolt with ONE firm hit. Once the center punch has a good hole in there to lever off of, lightly and repeatedly tap in the proper direction. DO NOT heavily pound on the bolt or you'll just end up further damaging it. Just many light taps with eventually prevail and it'll unwind in most instances where there's not too much corrosion involved. A peen hammer works real well here.
Or you can just use a sledge hammer after everything fails and extreme fustration sets in.....
:icon_deadhors e:
Get a sharp center punch tool and dig lightly (and straight) into the stuck, stripped, seized bolt with ONE firm hit. Once the center punch has a good hole in there to lever off of, lightly and repeatedly tap in the proper direction. DO NOT heavily pound on the bolt or you'll just end up further damaging it. Just many light taps with eventually prevail and it'll unwind in most instances where there's not too much corrosion involved. A peen hammer works real well here.
Or you can just use a sledge hammer after everything fails and extreme fustration sets in.....
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Black Rider
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